Sorry, I only have a digital camera. It can capture ones and zeros, but it completely misses on twos.
If I still had an old Polaroid film camera, I'd be able to take a good pic.
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What cables do you use in your systems?
- Thread starter Legion1capone
- Start date
Sorry, I only have a digital camera. It can capture ones and zeros, but it completely misses on twos.
If I still had an old Polaroid film camera, I'd be able to take a good pic.
- Joined
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Mogami 2549 for the mic setup as well as the active monitors I have on my desk. I still have 2 pairs of Oyaide PA-02 V2 AES/EBU cables lying around which are pretty decent but rather stiff.
For USB I use Oyaide d+ Class A, not that it would make a difference since most of my devices have excellent internal clocks and galvanic isolation. But they are very nicely crafted internally and externally.
For USB I use Oyaide d+ Class A, not that it would make a difference since most of my devices have excellent internal clocks and galvanic isolation. But they are very nicely crafted internally and externally.
Hi All ! following your kind and valuable advice i have bought these ones
https://www.adamhall.com/shop/it-it/cavi-e-spine/cavi-assemblati/altri-cavi-audio/3189/k3-tcc-0100
Adam Hall brand is quite famous in the pro sector
the connectors look a little weak ... i will try to find some cheap but decent locking type ones ... i swear for locking type RCAs (i.e. WBT style)
Thanks a lot again, gino
https://www.adamhall.com/shop/it-it/cavi-e-spine/cavi-assemblati/altri-cavi-audio/3189/k3-tcc-0100
Adam Hall brand is quite famous in the pro sector
the connectors look a little weak ... i will try to find some cheap but decent locking type ones ... i swear for locking type RCAs (i.e. WBT style)
Thanks a lot again, gino
David Harper
Senior Member
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I'm pretty experienced with wires. 50 years ago after my drivers license was suspended (for drag racing) my dad, before he went to work, opened the hood of my car (1967 Ford Fairlane GTA) and yanked off the short connector between the coil and distributer cap and took it with him. An hour later I
went out to the garage to start my car. Didn't start. Looked under the hood and seeing what he had done I went to the basement and found a short
very heavy solid piece of copper wire. Went back to the car and jammed one end into the coil and the other end into the distributer and off I went!
Came home some time later and put my car back in the garage being careful to position it exactly the same as it was before. Then, with the car running, reached under the hood and grabbed the chunk of wire. Next thing I remember I was sitting on the concrete floor seeing stars with a very ugly burn on the inside of my hand across all four fingers. For the next hour I felt remarkably relaxed and tranquil. I think I may have re-booted my brain.
went out to the garage to start my car. Didn't start. Looked under the hood and seeing what he had done I went to the basement and found a short
very heavy solid piece of copper wire. Went back to the car and jammed one end into the coil and the other end into the distributer and off I went!
Came home some time later and put my car back in the garage being careful to position it exactly the same as it was before. Then, with the car running, reached under the hood and grabbed the chunk of wire. Next thing I remember I was sitting on the concrete floor seeing stars with a very ugly burn on the inside of my hand across all four fingers. For the next hour I felt remarkably relaxed and tranquil. I think I may have re-booted my brain.
devopsprodude
Senior Member
Mostly bluejeanscable.com, because they use quality cable stock and connectors, and don't engage in any BS.
For USB cables, I prefer Anker because of the abuse their braided cables can take, and buy Amazon's brand of cables for USB variants Anker doesn't sell.
For HDMI, I've had good results with Monoprice's stuff, but have also gotten high quality cables from bluejeanscable.com.
Interconnects in my systems are mostly from bluejeanscable.com, but my balanced interconnect cable bundle is from Outlaw Audio and that's worked very well.
Speaker cables are 100% bluejeanscable.com at this point.
For USB cables, I prefer Anker because of the abuse their braided cables can take, and buy Amazon's brand of cables for USB variants Anker doesn't sell.
For HDMI, I've had good results with Monoprice's stuff, but have also gotten high quality cables from bluejeanscable.com.
Interconnects in my systems are mostly from bluejeanscable.com, but my balanced interconnect cable bundle is from Outlaw Audio and that's worked very well.
Speaker cables are 100% bluejeanscable.com at this point.
KingRolo
Member
BlueJeans here as well, Canare usually but I do have Mogami Xlrs. I pay for quality not promises
They didn't. Now they do: https://www.bluejeanscable.com/articles/iconoclastintro.htm
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devopsprodude
Senior Member
So much hemming and hawing in that web page. That's pretty disappointing and it's interesting that they kept the page separate.
I did calculator for pair of 5 foot speaker cables with banana plugs...was like $1200!
A sad change of position from what was once a upholder of the truth, now bending to the almightly dollar.
Speedskater
Major Contributor
Yes, it's sad that BJC has gone over to the dark side.
I thought that Kurt Denke was smarter than that.
David Harper
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Can someone here explain to me why it is recommended to connect only one channel (usually the left) from the "sub out" connection on the pre to
the signal input on a powered sub? thanks in advance.
the signal input on a powered sub? thanks in advance.
??? Your preamp has L & R sub outputs?
I believe he is saying he has one sub out on the preamp (AVR/AVP/whatever) to connect two (L/R, as if ***) inputs on the sub.
There is usually just one sub output, typically the LFE signal plus redirected bass from bass management that is summed to mono, so connecting both inputs via a splitter or whatever is not necessary for most folk. However, connecting both inputs in some subwoofers (e.g. Rythmik) will double the gain, helping achieve full output from lower-output AVR/AVP units, or providing an extra gain to help with setting trim levels and/or more signal to the auto-on/off circuit so it stays on when it should. If you do not need the extra gain, then there is no point in using two cables, and using higher gain when not needed may make it harder to integrate (set trim levels) the sub.
HTH - Don
*** Some years ago a friend proudly showed off his new systems using stereo subs. Yep, a Y cable from his AVR's LFE/sub output sent the signal to the left input of one sub and the right input of the other, providing "stereo" subs. I debated a bit but finally did explain the signal path, leading to an indignant protest that the subs shouldn't have left and right inputs if they couldn't create left and right signals from the (single, mono) sub output...
It's not common, but some preamps support stereo subs.
Yes, thus I said "usually"... My last AVP supported mono or stereo subs. My current one will but I did not deem it worth the effort. I ran stereo subs for a long time but the past decade or two it is not worth the integration hassle since almost no content is stereo in the deep bass, plus wavelengths argue against it in most rooms. Mine, anyway.
I can say two subs sounds better than one. I have not had the chance to listen back to back to see if stereo/mono is distinguishable.
I would bet that more than two would also make a difference.
Multiple subs make it easier to compensate room modes and such for more even bass response. I use four in my media room. I went through several configurations with measurements and listening before deciding running them as a mono group worked best for me.
Here is one of the classic multi-sub reference papers from Todd Welti: https://www.harman.com/documents/multsubs_0.pdf
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