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Topping PA5 Review (Amplifier)

the chip used is capable of driving 2 ohm loads but the output filters are not made for that, but with PFFB it should correct for that.
its most likely gonna work no problem.

just never connect the negative terminals together like some subwoofer high-level input boards do.
what is the bit about not connecting the negative terminals? I was about to suggest that he run both channels in parallel to the subs in series.
 
what is the bit about not connecting the negative terminals? I was about to suggest that he run both channels in parallel to the subs in series.
That would likely be a very bad idea.
 
My subs are just 70 Watt :) so don't need that much power. Just wondering if the Topping PA5 would work with 2ohm speakers/subwoofers.
Regardless of whether it's a PA5 or a PA5II, for a subwoofer it's really like throwing pearls before swine and wasting money.

It's the wrong application for this amplifier anyway.

An amplifier designed for 2 ohms, such as the well-tested AIYIMA A70 MONO, is significantly cheaper and has a much higher output when needed.
And if that's not clear, too little power is a problem, too much is not.

what is the bit about not connecting the negative terminals? I was about to suggest that he run both channels in parallel to the subs in series.
You should definitely film that for the forum and for YouTube.

With many amplifiers, especially Class D, the loudspeaker minus connections must under no circumstances have contact with each other or with ground. This can lead to short circuits and smoke signals.
 
Regardless of whether it's a PA5 or a PA5II, for a subwoofer it's really like throwing pearls before swine and wasting money.

It's the wrong application for this amplifier anyway.

An amplifier designed for 2 ohms, such as the well-tested AIYIMA A70 MONO, is significantly cheaper and has a much higher output when needed.
And if that's not clear, too little power is a problem, too much is not.


You should definitely film that for the forum and for YouTube.

With many amplifiers, especially Class D, the loudspeaker minus connections must under no circumstances have contact with each other or with ground. This can lead to short circuits and smoke signals.
If I remember correctly it seems that many class Ds cannot be connected (for similar reasons) to the high level inputs of the subs, but I could be wrong or have got confused, those who know more feel free to correct me
 
If I remember correctly it seems that many class Ds cannot be connected (for similar reasons) to the high level inputs of the subs, but I could be wrong or have got confused, those who know more feel free to correct me
That depends on the SUBs.
If the manual does not explicitly state that you can also connect Class D power amplifiers, or that the negative speaker poles are isolated from each other, you definitely have to check it.
 
this class-d amp has 4 outputs, two for each channel,
the amplified signal and the amplified signal but inverted 180°
in addition... both outputs are floating at around half the supply voltage! but your speakers only see the difference not the absolute, so its fine.
but dont touch one wire to the amplifier case when the other one is connected and its turned on.

and for paralleling... class-d are low output impedance, any imbalance between the channels makes them fight with eachother.
you can parallel class-d amps if they are designed for it in the first place. the tpa3255 can be configued in PBTL (page 28 of the datasheet) but it isnt in this case.
 
why? I thought it was always safe to run stereo amp channels in parallel to double the available current.
Class D outputs are switching from + to - rails of the power supply. Unless they are perfectly synced, and locked together so they do that at exactly the same time all the time the amp will try to connect +Psu to -psu.

The output filter might save the amp - or it might not.
 
Guys, is this model good enough to pair with my Panasonic UB9000 for listening to music, or Audiophonics AP310 - P250MP would be better choice due to its remote control?
Which one you suggest me to try? If there is better oje model, I am open to hear it?
 
Consider the reliability of the Topping PA5 - per this thread

 
Consider the reliability of the Topping PA5 - per this thread

The issue has been resolved long ago.
The PA5 II no longer has this problem.
PA5 owners have the choice of having their old PA5 replaced by Topping or using @gamerpaddy module and getting a completely problem-free PA5.
 
The issue has been resolved long ago.
The PA5 II no longer has this problem.
PA5 owners have the choice of having their old PA5 replaced by Topping or using @gamerpaddy module and getting a completely problem-free PA5.
Yes, I perceive no issues with the Topping PA5 II. I am uncertain whether @funkera91 is referring to the PA5 or PA5 II in posting #5,390
 
Yes, I perceive no issues with the Topping PA5 II. I am uncertain whether @funkera91 is referring to the PA5 or PA5 II in posting #5,390
I think that newer version should be better as the other I can not see it for sale, but a friend told me earlier to buy either
SMSL PA-X stereo either Audiophonics A310 - P250NC
 
I think that newer version should be better as the other I can not see it for sale, but a friend told me earlier to buy either
SMSL PA-X stereo either Audiophonics A310 - P250NC
Pa-x doesn't seem to be anything special at all
 
I think that newer version should be better as the other I can not see it for sale, but a friend told me earlier to buy either
SMSL PA-X stereo either Audiophonics A310 - P250NC
If more power is needed than a PA5 II can deliver, I would recommend the PA7, the 3E A7, or the Sabaj A30a to a friend.
Even a NAD 2200 that is over 30 years old delivers better measurements and more power than a PA-X.
 
I believe the PA5 is the highest reviewed amp here.
For clarity, and to reinforce what others have said: the original PA5 has a fundamental design problem, approach with caution.
The replacements; PA5 II, PA7 are great.
 
For clarity, and to reinforce what others have said: the original PA5 has a fundamental design problem, approach with caution.
The replacements; PA5 II, PA7 are great.
The design, i.e., the circuitry, of the old PA5 is even slightly better than the PA5 II.
The problem with the original PA5 was the potting compound used to encapsulate the modules.
After removing the potting compound and cleaning it, or replacing it with the module from Gamerpaddy Topping PA5 fix - D01 Module Replacement for everyone, the old PA5s also work perfectly.
 
I used the amplifier for an entire day at a flea market (moderately elevated volume to compensate for ambient noise). It was powered on from 8 AM to 6 PM and was warm by the end of the day, but has been running flawlessly since I got it in 2021. No issues to report.
 
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