Subwoofers for use in DSP system

[hvbias]

What qualities or features would you be looking for in subwoofers to be used with Acourate? Lets say a multi sub setup with two to four.

Would your typical "audiophile" subwoofer that is a driver in a damped box be a viable choice? For instance no DSP/microphone input features built into it, no phase control, no gain control, no active amplifier.

What are your thoughts on tapped horn subwoofers? Bill Fitzmaurice sells plans for some pretty big ones. Distortion measurements are very good but response is not, and it is intended to be used with DSP/EQ. Similar to Danley Sound Labs tapped horns; very high efficiency, low distortion but require some EQ. Hornresp simulations pretty much confirm the response of various TH designs, which is why I assume most people use them well below 100 hz.

 

[iridium]

Before I make a statement, I would like to know if this is for your personal use.

iridium.

 

[amirm]

Tapped horn designs can be most excellent in the amount of output (I have two in my theater). And output is what I like to see. If you are able to audition them, do so without a main speaker playing. See how well they sound as you increase the volume.

On EQ, it is a must have in the sub if your system does not have one.

 

[dallasjustice]

Those horn subs look pretty funny. I would find a sub with a good balance between linearity 25hz-100hz and reasonable size. Subwoofer placement is key. So you'll probably need to be able to move the sub around the room a little before settling on a good location. I would also recommend a powered sub with a class D amp. They are more efficient, powerful and usually have less audible ground loops. It doesn't matter if the sub has DSP onboard. DSP isnt a problem. It just might add some latency. But that's not really a problem either since you'll be using delays in your Acourate filters anyway. I like jl audio f112v2. But there are many other fine subs.

If you plan on using 2 mono subs to destructively drive length modes, you WILL need to have at least one sub with a phase knob. The phase knob is usually referenced to a frequency. For example, jl audio references their phase knob to 80hz. It's important to know this info in such a setup because you will likely want to use the phase knob to find the best delay on your rear wall "sink sub."

Of course, there are many ways to setup subs. I'm just talking about my favorite way of doing it.

You'll also need a multi channel DAC/ADC. Lynx Hilo and Prism Titan or Lyra are excellent choices.

 

[dallasjustice]

If you like DIY horns, how about building a pair of these?

 

[NorthSky]

OMG, this looks out of a sci-fi flick from a distant time funnel into another dimension. We don't see those every day in audio forums.

 

[hvbias]

Before I make a statement, I would like to know if this is for your personal use.

iridium.

For home use, stereo and not home theater. More of a curiosity right now.

You'll also need a multi channel DAC/ADC. Lynx Hilo and Prism Titan or Lyra are excellent choices.

Thanks for your input. The digital stuff is an after thought for now. Currently more interested in the speakers, subs, setup and room. I'm not too familiar with Welti's arrangement, I will have to read more about it. Geddes white paper is the setup I am familiar with.

Even with the large size of those straight horns they do not extend all the way down, he has numerous direct radiator drivers behind his theater screen. For true horn loaded 20 Hz output with straight horns they need to be very long. What some people do is horn load multiple drivers to effectively reduce the horn's length.