Subwoofer settings with bypass filter

[Bucking]

Hello all,

I have a pair of Genelec 8010s and just recently bought an Esi Aktiv 10S for them.
The Esi has a bypass filter at 100HZ and also normal crossover setting's.

I plan on connecting the 8010s via XLR to the ESI directly and enabling the bypass filter.

However what setting should I set the normal crossover then?
100HZ 180HZ?

What would be the best setting?

 

[staticV3]

In theory, setting the LPF to 100Hz to match the 100Hz HPF should result in a flat crossover response.

In practice, you may want to take measurements with slightly different LPF settings ~80-120Hz to find the one which gives you the smoothest in-room response.

This can be done using a UMIK-1 with Room EQ Wizard, or with the free HouseCurve App for iOS.

 

[Bucking]

In theory, setting the LPF to 100Hz to match the 100Hz HPF should result in a flat crossover response.

In practice, you may want to take measurements with slightly different LPF settings ~80-120Hz to find the one which gives you the smoothest in-room response.

This can be done using a UMIK-1 with Room EQ Wizard, or with the free HouseCurve App for iOS.

Thank you very much I will see what I can do.

 

[Bucking]

Ok after testing I think there might be something wrong with the ESI since I get a lot of buzz through the sub and speakers, especially when I have higher GPU load. I don't have this problem when I just plug the 8010s directly into the RME so I think the Esi is at fault.
Would something like a ground loop eliminator be helpful for me?

 

[staticV3]

Ok after testing I think there might be something wrong with the ESI since I get a lot of buzz through the sub and speakers, especially when I have higher GPU load. I don't have this problem when I just plug the 8010s directly into the RME so I think the Esi is at fault.
Would something like a ground loop eliminator be helpful for me?

One of these should fix the buzz:
https://www.tpdz.net/productinfo/733226.html
https://hifimediy.com/product/hifime-high-speed-usb-isolator-v2/
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005001927948863.html

If your RME has Optical in, then switching to that would also work, and cost less.

If your PC doesn't have Optical out, then you can add that with one of these:
https://hifimediy.com/product/hifime-ut23-usb-to-optical-spdif-converter/
https://hifimediy.com/product/s2-digi/
https://www.cubilux.com/products/usb-spdif-adapter
https://www.cubilux.com/products/usb-to-s-pdif-transmitter

 

[Bucking]

Optical wont impact sound quality compared to USB right?
Cause I'm also using my HD800S with the RME

But the issue is only with the studio monitors and sub

 

[staticV3]

Optical wont impact sound quality compared to USB right?

No impact to sound quality.

 

[Bucking]

Thank you very much optical works perfectly

 

[Bucking]

Do you think replacing the USB cable with another one could also bring the same results?

I'm a bit lost with the huge availability of cables, low noise PSUs and ground loop defenders (Is there anything that actually works)
And also I'm confused since the buzz only started once I had the ESI sub in the setup and also only when I put my GPU under load :/

 

[staticV3]

Do you think replacing the USB cable with another one could also bring the same results?

I don't think so.

I'm a bit lost with the huge availability of cables, low noise PSUs and ground loop defenders (Is there anything that actually works)

The USB isolators I sent should work just as well as the Optical connection that you're using now.
So if you need USB, those are a possible solution.

Fancy cables or PSUs won't do anything.

 

[dasdoing]

so the crossover knob is actually a Low Pass for the sub, and the switch is a High pass for the main outs?
strange implementation. why wouldn't you make it so that the crossover knob controls the.....eeew crossover point?

 

[staticV3]

so the crossover knob is actually a High Pass for the sub, and the switch is a low pass for the main outs?
strange implementation. why wouldn't you make it so that the crossover knob controls the.....eeew crossover point?

To cut costs, simplify the design, and reduce the number of failure points.

The ESI 10S is one of the cheapest subs available with XLR pass-though and LPF+HPF.

If you go up in price, you get more sophisticated crossovers.

 

[Bucking]

Sorry for bothering again, but since I'm using the 8010s with a sub I should not enable the dip switches at the back right?

 

[staticV3]

Sorry for bothering again, but since I'm using the 8010s with a sub I should not enable the dip switches at the back right?

I'd experiment with all available DIP switches to find the config with optimal results. Measurement mic highly recommended.

If there's no mic, the HouseCurve App will do.

 

[Bucking]

Thank you very much

 

[Bucking]

Could it also be that the ground loop is caused by a pin 1 issue?

 

[Bucking]

OK, with the HS02 topping the problem is almost no longer noticeable. The only thing I've noticed is that the sub definitely amplifies the normal noise of the studio monitors. Is that normal?

 

[staticV3]

The only thing I've noticed is that the sub definitely amplifies the normal noise of the studio monitors. Is that normal?

It's expected that the sub's HPF Pass-though output adds some noise and distortion to the signal.

How much, depends on the care that was put into the PCB design.

I'd expect more expensive subs like the KH750 to have very clean pass-though, while you can probably find some duds at the bottom end of studio subs.

To minimize noise, I'd try turning up the DAC and turning down the monitors.

 

[Bucking]

By turning down the monitors you mean the level on the sub? Because on the 8010s I don't have a volume dial.

 

[staticV3]

on the 8010s I don't have a volume dial.

You do have a -10dB sensitivity switch though, which will make them less sensitive.