It would be a shame to use NFS time on something that wasn’t as perfect as could be.
Erin> I'm designing a family of speakers soon, using my waveguides, CLD construction, and port that eliminates the pipe resonances. The first examples will be 2-way bookshelf-type speakers as a proof of concept. I would be curious how those look on the Klippel.
Next week I'll be testing a 3D-printed template. If it works well, I'll be posting them on my site and also update all the waveguide files because the mounting flange has to be tweaked. People would need a 5/16" OD and 1" OD template guide bushing to use it.Side note - I should do a time lapse-ish video on how to route the elliptical shapes into the baffle. I think it puts some people off, but it’s a lot easier than you’d think. It does take a bit more time, but is rewarding when done right.
I've thought about this as well. I have a 3dp with a 300mm square bed, so I have space to make a baffle for a mid/tweeter.It occurs to me these techniques could be used to reduce the overall baffle surface, a la Revel Salon 2. You could CNC or 3D print a fully reduced front baffle, perfect for the drivers to sit in. The use of negative space in baffle design could have a lot more application than just 2-way.
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My roommate has a Snapmaker 3.0, a handy little 3-in-1 "maker" tool with 3D printing, laser cutting, and CNC all in the same box. 3D printing is by far the most used in the house. I wonder if the materials are good enough for front baffle use. I've often thought about redoing my Speedsters with slot ports, braces, fancy joint work, and perfect chamfer edges in CNC.
Hexibase is a great youtube channel with fully 3D printed enclosures. He mostly works on high order ports and car bass, but his research is very cutting edge and I feel like this thread would appreciate it.