3d Printed Speakerenclosure 2 Way

[kemmler3D]

Here is my second attempt: 15.1L without the beams and around 14,2-14,3 without each drivervolume. WINISD and VituixCAD got me 14,2 L for my configuration.

Front baffle is 18 mm, back panel 15 mm, and the sides/bottom are 10 mm thick. I've added internal beams where they won’t interfere with the drivers, to help with stiffness and rounded inner edges too

View attachment 461542View attachment 461544


For assembly, I plan to use 6×30 mm wooden dowels for alignment and a strong white mounting glue. Hopefully, I won’t need to do much (if anything) for the surface finish afterwards.

I’ll also design a temporary internal plate for the assembly process, so I can screw the two halves together at the beams from the inside. Once the glue has set, I’ll remove the structure.

View attachment 461545View attachment 461546

I’ll tweak my slicer settings so that each part uses around 2.2 kg of filament, since my spools are about 1.1 kg each. Current settings: 4 perimeters, 40% infill, and supports only where absolutely necessary. Bridging should handle the rest. 3,5 Days Printing time is a bit scary to be honest ^^

View attachment 461547View attachment 461548

I’m printing in this orientation with variable layer height to get smooth round corners. If I flipped the part 180°, the outer edges wouldn’t look as clean

You can easily redesign the bracing to not need supports, just have them at a ~45 degree angle and/or x-shaped instead of straight across?

I also tend to push my luck with circular holes and no supports... Isn't always beautiful but usually works fine.

Fwiw I have found printed dowels also work for alignment of multiple pieces.

 

[Terplover]

You can easily redesign the bracing to not need supports, just have them at a ~45 degree angle and/or x-shaped instead of straight across?

I also tend to push my luck with circular holes and no supports... Isn't always beautiful but usually works fine.

Fwiw I have found printed dowels also work for alignment of multiple pieces.

I’ve thought about that too, but I’m a bit hesitant to add too many surfaces inside the enclosure. I’m worried they might block or reflect soundwaves in a way that negatively affects sound quality. Dont you think that could become a issue?

Also, I’ve been playing around with my support settings quite a bit and finally found a sweet spot. Big overhangs and internal cutouts actually come out much cleaner with tuned supports than with just reducing the layer height.

 

[Terplover]

Perhaps this is helpful for this project or for anyone else filling hollow 3-D printed speaker cabinet walls with plaster. Apparently, as discussed and demonstrated in the video below, adding some PVA glue to liquid plaster will, when it hardens, create a compound with significant resonance damping, in significant contrast to pure plaster alone which has a tendency to ring.

I saw that video too and ended up diving a bit deeper into using plaster. For optimal results, you actually need around 30–40% PVA glue mixed in. He’s using way less, plus some additives for better adhesion. With all that considered, the price point really isn’t that attractive anymore.

At this point, the only real downside I see to a fully 3D-printed enclosure is the printing time — but honestly, I don’t really care about that.

So my plan is to print the first box entirely in PLA, do some measurements, and decide how to proceed from there. If it turns out PLA alone performs well enough, it would save me a ton of work and experimenting with new materials.

 

[Terplover]

Quick side quest for anyone interested: I also put together some budget-friendly DIY speaker stands for around €15 each, and some bass absorbers for about €20 each.

And yeah... I absolutely love my 3D printer — if something can be printed, I’m probably already trying it

 

[Terplover]

Currently doing some tests to find the sweet spot for acceptable layer height without affecting the visual quality too much. Will stick to around 0.08-0.18.

Also experimenting with different adhesives.

I have a nice-looking white mounting glue that would fit well visually, but its adhesion to PLA isn’t great — not enough to trust it long-term. Might need to switch to a stronger 2K epoxy, but that comes with its own issues, especially when trying to keep the seams clean and invisible. Still figuring out the best balance between strength and aesthetics.

 

[D!sco]

I highly recommend this thread with nearly every kind of speaker configuration designed and tested in DIY. The last project completed was a 3D printed Bliesma/Purifi design. Apparently it’s good enough. There’s plenty of conjecture and debate in the thread, but it’s worth a read for the references alone.

A 3 way design study

Hi @Sasha KC83, I have just tried the stereo sub approach so far. I have "subwoofers" set up like shown in this picture. Each black cab has two Satori WO24Ps. Both drivers are connected in parallel per side and are low passed at 60Hz. I have a big L-shaped room and what you see below is the...

www.diyaudio.com

 

[Terplover]

I highly recommend this thread with nearly every kind of speaker configuration designed and tested in DIY. The last project completed was a 3D printed Bliesma/Purifi design. Apparently it’s good enough. There’s plenty of conjecture and debate in the thread, but it’s worth a read for the references alone.

A 3 way design study

Hi @Sasha KC83, I have just tried the stereo sub approach so far. I have "subwoofers" set up like shown in this picture. Each black cab has two Satori WO24Ps. Both drivers are connected in parallel per side and are low passed at 60Hz. I have a big L-shaped room and what you see below is the...

www.diyaudio.com

Yeah, I already saw this thread — really impressive build!
As far as I know, he’s using a pre-engineered STL file from that YouTube guy.

Sadly, I couldn’t find any details about the actual wall thickness anywhere. Would really love to know.

 

[D!sco]

Hey @Vineeth Kumar V , got any advice on wall thickness?

 

[kemmler3D]

I’m worried they might block or reflect soundwaves in a way that negatively affects sound quality. Dont you think that could become a issue

No, for the same reason putting diffusers inside the cabinet doesn't work... Woofer wavelengths are all much bigger than any internal structure, so I think to a good approximation only the internal volume really matters. You see all sorts of intricate bracing with wooden DIY enclosures and I've never seen clear evidence of internal reflections from them causing an issue.

As for glue I used this on my QRD project and it miraculously didn't fall apart... Even though most of the joins are just flat surfaces... It's a 35kg piece or so, so I definitely endorse it for adhesion to PLA...

ClearWeld Syringe

ClearWeld is a quick setting, multipurpose two part epoxy that provides a strong and lasting bond on most surfaces including tile, most plastics, ceramic, glass, wood and metal.

www.jbweld.com

 

[Vineeth Kumar V]

Hi @D!sco & @Terplover,
Thanks for reading my thread..
My 3D-printed box for the Purifi mid + Bliesma tweeter was a custom design that I made, and not from the STL that would have been available in the video link I had shared in my thread
It looked like this

The idea was to have an adaptor (as shown in the above pic), when I want to use the bare tweeter as such and otherwise be able to use the waveguided Bliesma T34A directly attached to the box without the adaptor. I have applied 'sort of' rounded chamfers on the baffle area around the tweeter adaptor/waveguided tweeter so that the T34A waveguide is terminated properly (at least to the extent possible with this kind of adaptable box design).

The wall thickness is about 15mm for the 3D printed box. But I want to apply 3mm aluminium-butyl damping sheets to the interior of the box as well. I have printed the box with 20% infill. Due to lack of time, of late, I have not been able to work further on this project.

I think such a 3D printed box with appropriate bracing and damping might do well in relatively lower SPL applications for home use. If high SPL is the target, it might be worth testing first before proceeding with printing the boxes. Anyway, I haven't found any obvious issues with this speaker yet, and it has been highly enjoyable in my application so far.

 

[Terplover]

Okay, I think I’m overcomplicating things. I’ll stick with a 17 mm baffle, 15 mm front, and 10 mm for the sides. Top and bottom are reduced to 5 mm in the middle, sloping down at a 20% angle since my printer handles 20% overhangs without issues. I’m only using supports for the driver openings and similar cutouts, which in total consume less than 40 grams.

Sliced with 4 perimeters and 40% rectangular infill, the print would consume around 3.5 kg per speaker. I’ll reduce infill slightly to 37%, bringing the total down to just under 3.3 kg per speaker so i need exactly 3 Rolls per Speaker—leaving me with a 40 g safety margin

 

[Terplover]

Hi @D!sco & @Terplover,
Thanks for reading my thread..
My 3D-printed box for the Purifi mid + Bliesma tweeter was a custom design that I made, and not from the STL that would have been available in the video link I had shared in my thread
It looked like this
View attachment 462871

The idea was to have an adaptor (as shown in the above pic), when I want to use the bare tweeter as such and otherwise be able to use the waveguided Bliesma T34A directly attached to the box without the adaptor. I have applied 'sort of' rounded chamfers on the baffle area around the tweeter adaptor/waveguided tweeter so that the T34A waveguide is terminated properly (at least to the extent possible with this kind of adaptable box design).

The wall thickness is about 15mm for the 3D printed box. But I want to apply 3mm aluminium-butyl damping sheets to the interior of the box as well. I have printed the box with 20% infill. Due to lack of time, of late, I have not been able to work further on this project.

I think such a 3D printed box with appropriate bracing and damping might do well in relatively lower SPL applications for home use. If high SPL is the target, it might be worth testing first before proceeding with printing the boxes. Anyway, I haven't found any obvious issues with this speaker yet, and it has been highly enjoyable in my application so far.
View attachment 462872

Had similar thoughts too, but I decided against using an adapter for the waveguide. I’m aiming for a clean, seamless design. Once the enclosure is fully finished, I don’t plan to make many modifications. If I ever go for something bigger, I’ll redesign the whole speaker anyway.

Also, this speaker wont need to reach very high SPLs since I’ve got a separate sub in my setup handling the low end, and I don’t want to disturb my neighbors too much . So thanks for your Answer. Helped me a lot to get my thoughts together.

 

[Terplover]

Will keep you guys updated. 2 Days for this print and 2 more to finish the First box.

 

[Terplover]

Had some issues printing due to warping and dialing in new material settings. I had to reduce the wall printing speed, but the second attempt worked fine. I also increased the layer height to 0.2 mm, with 0.1 mm used on critical roundings since you see the layers anyways because the part is a bit too heavy for my current printer to come out perfect—I’m not using a CoreXY setup (atm)

Still Pretty happy with the result. From 1-2m away you dont see anything. Seems very solid too. Will keep the settings

 

[Terplover]

After staring at them for a few hours, I’ve decided I will sand and paint them once everything is finished.


Yeah... I guess I like to complicate things


Ignore the pillows in the corner. Measurements showed, I need an absorber there, but I haven’t had time to build more yet.

 

[Ktacos]

Looks great. Lots of good 3d print projects going, and my 3d modeling skills are getting better to the point that I'm not sure I'll make another wood box.

 

[Terplover]

Got both speakers finished and finally started measuring.

Honestly, I have no real clue what I’m doing yet, but somehow it’s working . Need to dive deeper into the whole measurement stuff, but the first listening test was already quite promising. The optical finish is gonna be a future project.

Distance was around 64cm and measured on Axis


Tweeter Raw

Woofer Raw

Alligned etc.

Together and at listening position

 

[D!sco]

Are you boosting the tweeter to reach those levels, or am I misinterpreting the raw? It's very unusual to do that and typically is the opposite. Otherwise those results look quite nice.

 

[Terplover]

Did just one quick measurement at low volume. Didn’t want to risk damaging the tweeter with low frequencys. Once I had a low-frequency filter that seemed to fit, I leveled the volume of both.

Are you boosting the tweeter to reach those levels, or am I misinterpreting the raw? It's very unusual to do that and typically is the opposite. Otherwise those results look quite nice.

 

[Ktacos]

The tweeter filtering looks wrong, unless you want it to drop down 10db in the top end.