Polk R700 Review by Audioholics

[Mowz]

I am wondering the same. What is the difference between L600 and R700…

I picked up the r200, r600, and r700, and I'm only taking back the r600. It was really good, but I got the floorstanders to use at home in a 2.0 tv setup and the dynamics and midrange were much fuller on the r700. I have them in my office right now where I have subs and both sound better crossed with a sub. I got the r700 from Polk direct with a 10% first purchase discount during the sale last week, so less than 1800 all in to my door, and at that price I certainly prefer them to the r600.

For music with a sub, I would take either pair.

Other considerations might be that the r700 is slightly easier to drive and the r700 allows for bi-amp/bi-wire. LMK if you have any other questions about them. I just got the r700 in today so I haven't measured anything yet but they sound great!

 

[SlowCar]

Well, thank You for your response, but I am wondering about L600 not R600.

 

[hdkeith]

I am also curios on the L600. I suspect is will have similar properties to the R700 with better build/finish quality. I did read or hear the R700 was improved port design on the L600 for less chuffing. While sound is the first priority, the vinyl on the R series is a bit of a turn off. I do get it was a way to keep the price point where it is.

 

[delta76]

I am also curios on the L600. I suspect is will have similar properties to the R700 with better build/finish quality. I did read or hear the R700 was improved port design on the L600 for less chuffing. While sound is the first priority, the vinyl on the R series is a bit of a turn off. I do get it was a way to keep the price point where it is.

best for you to audition them at your home, with your equipment and your music. people usually underestimate how the room affect the sound (room correction would help a lot, but there are things like placement you just can't cheat)

is there a local dealer who can set that up?

 

[Mowz]

Well, thank You for your response, but I am wondering about L600 not R600.

Oops now I'm curious too!

 

[Slyman]

I picked up the r200, r600, and r700, and I'm only taking back the r600. It was really good, but I got the floorstanders to use at home in a 2.0 tv setup and the dynamics and midrange were much fuller on the r700. I have them in my office right now where I have subs and both sound better crossed with a sub. I got the r700 from Polk direct with a 10% first purchase discount during the sale last week, so less than 1800 all in to my door, and at that price I certainly prefer them to the r600.

For music with a sub, I would take either pair.

Other considerations might be that the r700 is slightly easier to drive and the r700 allows for bi-amp/bi-wire. LMK if you have any other questions about them. I just got the r700 in today so I haven't measured anything yet but they sound great!

May i ask how do you like the r200? And maybe even compared to the r700?

 

[Mowz]

May i ask how do you like the r200? And maybe even compared to the r700?

I really like them. My primary setup is Kef LS-50 Metas nearfield with 3 supporting subs and the r200s sound almost as good but aren't as resolving or precise. The r200s measure better in my room before EQ than the metas, but they haven't taken to EQ or Dirac as well, but that isn't a criticism, just an observation. I really like the ~4k dip on the r200s and usually EQ that in anyway, so I love to hear the r200s just natural.

If I had a smaller room or didn't play super loud I would just use the r200s. The r700s can really fill the midrange and low end, which is what they really bring to the table over the r200s, and so they are going to flank my TV eventually. They play so loud and are very immersive. I am running them with a Vidar, and for a few days bi (tri?) amped them with a Vidar and two Aegir monoblocks, and they really can be very loud and very dynamic, so I think its more of a use case issue. Now I'm running them with just the Vidar and they still play louder than I can get away with.

 

[hdkeith]

Haw are the R700 on top end, are the high articles and clear without being bright?

 

[Mowz]

Haw are the R700 on top end, are the high articles and clear without being bright?

They are clear and not bright, yes. My reference for bright being my beyerdymamics dt990 headphones and the b&w 607s I took back that I found to be more clear than the r200s on the high end but too bright. I find them the least fatiguing to listen to of everything I have without eq.

 

[Sammy1358]

I have had my R700's for about 6 months now. They are easily the best speaker I have heard under 5-7k a pair. My feeling is purely subjective based on what I have heard. There have been quite a few comments that Ring Radiator Tweeters in these are likely too bright. I run mine with about 5-10 degrees of toe-in and there is not a hint of sibilance. I am absolutely floored by how good these speakers sound. I agree with the previous posters that you have to come correct with the power though. I am running them off of a Rotel RB-1070 and I feel they could use a bit more power. Even with the 170 or so watts I can pull out of my amp, the detail is incredible without being shrill or harsh regardless of the volume I have pulled from them. These are my endgame speakers at least for now.
I do have a complaint though, while I completely understand and agree with the pricing for performance on these which is completely ludicrous IMHO, the finish is cheap. I am really struggling with the vinyl wrap. The wrap looks nice but let's be honest when does a vinyl wrap ever say quality? I am really close to pulling the trigger and just refinishing them with a solid veneer. I upgraded from Linton's but I have heard quite a few speakers from Focal, Magnepan, Klipsch, KLH model 5's (i have not heard the Kendall's which is a more close comparison FWIH), Focal, and KEF. The R700's for my tastes beat them all. The r700's had a bigger deeper stage than all the others. I didn't hear the other speakers in the same room though and that would likely make a big difference in itself. The Focal's were the closest quality wise and were more airy but had WAY too much energy in the top end for my tastes.
I have a couple of pre's that I have tried with the Polk's. I am currently Running an NAD M12 which I prefer over the Freya+ with upgraded tubes and a Pontus II DAC. I don't use the Pontus II with the M12. I feel the R700's sound better using the internal DAC on the M12.
I am sooo happy with this purchase. I still love and have my Linton's and they get quite a bit of use in my bedroom setup, but the R700's are way better. If you have the room and the power, I highly recommend giving these a shot.

 

[Urvile]

I have had my R700's for about 6 months now. They are easily the best speaker I have heard under 5-7k a pair. My feeling is purely subjective based on what I have heard. There have been quite a few comments that Ring Radiator Tweeters in these are likely too bright. I run mine with about 5-10 degrees of toe-in and there is not a hint of sibilance. I am absolutely floored by how good these speakers sound. I agree with the previous posters that you have to come correct with the power though. I am running them off of a Rotel RB-1070 and I feel they could use a bit more power. Even with the 170 or so watts I can pull out of my amp, the detail is incredible without being shrill or harsh regardless of the volume I have pulled from them. These are my endgame speakers at least for now.
I do have a complaint though, while I completely understand and agree with the pricing for performance on these which is completely ludicrous IMHO, the finish is cheap. I am really struggling with the vinyl wrap. The wrap looks nice but let's be honest when does a vinyl wrap ever say quality? I am really close to pulling the trigger and just refinishing them with a solid veneer. I upgraded from Linton's but I have heard quite a few speakers from Focal, Magnepan, Klipsch, KLH model 5's (i have not heard the Kendall's which is a more close comparison FWIH), Focal, and KEF. The R700's for my tastes beat them all. The r700's had a bigger deeper stage than all the others. I didn't hear the other speakers in the same room though and that would likely make a big difference in itself. The Focal's were the closest quality wise and were more airy but had WAY too much energy in the top end for my tastes.
I have a couple of pre's that I have tried with the Polk's. I am currently Running an NAD M12 which I prefer over the Freya+ with upgraded tubes and a Pontus II DAC. I don't use the Pontus II with the M12. I feel the R700's sound better using the internal DAC on the M12.
I am sooo happy with this purchase. I still love and have my Linton's and they get quite a bit of use in my bedroom setup, but the R700's are way better. If you have the room and the power, I highly recommend giving these a shot.

I really like my R700, had them for a year now. I also know I've not unlocked their full potential because of a under powered AVR.. Knowing that, I've just put a deposit on Buckeye/Purifi AMP 425w @ 4ohm per channel should be just the thing.

 

[Sammy1358]

I really like my R700, had them for a year now. I also know I've not unlocked their full potential because of a under powered AVR.. Knowing that, I've just put a deposit on Buckeye/Purifi AMP 425w @ 4ohm per channel should be just the thing.

Please reply back when you have gotten the amp and listened. I would love to hear what you think. I would love to demo the Buckeye w/Purifi. I have a feeling it might be a little to analytical for the R700's

 

[Slyman]

I have had my R700's for about 6 months now. They are easily the best speaker I have heard under 5-7k a pair. My feeling is purely subjective based on what I have heard. There have been quite a few comments that Ring Radiator Tweeters in these are likely too bright. I run mine with about 5-10 degrees of toe-in and there is not a hint of sibilance. I am absolutely floored by how good these speakers sound. I agree with the previous posters that you have to come correct with the power though. I am running them off of a Rotel RB-1070 and I feel they could use a bit more power. Even with the 170 or so watts I can pull out of my amp, the detail is incredible without being shrill or harsh regardless of the volume I have pulled from them. These are my endgame speakers at least for now.
I do have a complaint though, while I completely understand and agree with the pricing for performance on these which is completely ludicrous IMHO, the finish is cheap. I am really struggling with the vinyl wrap. The wrap looks nice but let's be honest when does a vinyl wrap ever say quality? I am really close to pulling the trigger and just refinishing them with a solid veneer. I upgraded from Linton's but I have heard quite a few speakers from Focal, Magnepan, Klipsch, KLH model 5's (i have not heard the Kendall's which is a more close comparison FWIH), Focal, and KEF. The R700's for my tastes beat them all. The r700's had a bigger deeper stage than all the others. I didn't hear the other speakers in the same room though and that would likely make a big difference in itself. The Focal's were the closest quality wise and were more airy but had WAY too much energy in the top end for my tastes.
I have a couple of pre's that I have tried with the Polk's. I am currently Running an NAD M12 which I prefer over the Freya+ with upgraded tubes and a Pontus II DAC. I don't use the Pontus II with the M12. I feel the R700's sound better using the internal DAC on the M12.
I am sooo happy with this purchase. I still love and have my Linton's and they get quite a bit of use in my bedroom setup, but the R700's are way better. If you have the room and the power, I highly recommend giving these a shot.

Could you perhaps elaborate on the R700 vs Linton 85ths part?

I'm about to buy the Lintons and thought about upgrading price range to include the R700. However i really like the aesthetics of the Lintons and good bass too. So when you say better may i ask how much better? And in which way? If it makes any sense.

 

[Sammy1358]

Could you perhaps elaborate on the R700 vs Linton 85ths part?

I'm about to buy the Lintons and thought about upgrading price range to include the R700. However i really like the aesthetics of the Lintons and good bass too. So when you say better may i ask how much better? And in which way? If it makes any sense.

The difference for me is the top and bottom extension. The bottom end has a fuller sound in the R700's. They dig deeper and still retain as much if not more detail than the Linton's. I think the Linton's mid-range in the vocal region are a touch better than the R700 although this is likely because of the Linton's med-range bump. The high-end is where the R700 really gains ground. The high-mids and highs on the R700 are flat to 20khz in my room where the Linton's start trailing off after 10k. Because of this, I feel the R700s retrieve and push more detail than the Linton's with more air. Sound stage width and depth are almost identical between the two. You have to have the power to drive the R700's though. I would say 175w with a high current amp is required. If you don't have that or plan to have that in the near future I would get the Linton's. Even then the Linton's like more power as well. But don't need it as much as the R700's

 

[SlowCar]

The difference for me is the top and bottom extension. The bottom end has a fuller sound in the R700's. They dig deeper and still retain as much if not more detail than the Linton's. I think the Linton's mid-range in the vocal region are a touch better than the R700 although this is likely because of the Linton's med-range bump. The high-end is where the R700 really gains ground. The high-mids and highs on the R700 are flat to 20khz in my room where the Linton's start trailing off after 10k. Because of this, I feel the R700s retrieve and push more detail than the Linton's with more air. Sound stage width and depth are almost identical between the two. You have to have the power to drive the R700's though. I would say 175w with a high current amp is required. If you don't have that or plan to have that in the near future I would get the Linton's. Even then the Linton's like more power as well. But don't need it as much as the R700's

Where does come from 175W value? It seems like a lot for R700.

 

[Sammy1358]

Where does come from 175W value? It seems like a lot for R700.

I am running a Rotel RB-1070 which I estimate puts out about 175w amount of power at 4 Ohms. I feel it does a fantastic job with the R700's but feel like I could get gains with a more powerful amp. I am strongly looking at a pair of Emotiva HC-1's, M22/23, or a Buckeye Purifi. The mids and highs are gorgeous but I feel like the lows would benefit from a bit more power. This is admittedly a guess, but I think an educated one based on the reviews/measurements of the Reserve series I have seen along with knowing my equipment and different pairings I have done. When I went from a Parsound newclassic 200 to the RB-1070 still using the Parasound as a preamp and the difference was simply shocking with my Linton's. The R700 is clearly a more demanding speaker in comparison. With the RB-1070 it is just more, more of everything. The Freya + and NAD M12 preamps were a large upgrade from the Parasound. I discovered true soundstage with these preamps.

 

[AngryZeus]

I’m on the door step of getting the L600 for $2150 all in, new unopened in box (a friend bought and missed the return window never opened)
If I do pull the trigger I’ll be getting either 2x Hypex Nila500 monoblocks OR getting 2x Hypex Nila500 stereo amps to bi-amp the L600

I’ve seen very little commentary on bu-wiring or bi-wiring these so if anyone has tried that’d be coool to hear

… I might also try just 1 Nila500 stereo amp to see if I’m blown away enough to save some $$$ - probably the smart move

 

[mhardy6647]

bi-wiring...

I mean, sure, you can try it -- but why? What do you expect to gain?
Some things... just don't make a lot of sense if a little rational thought is applied. Bi-wiring... is two of them.

You might want to ask the bi-wiring question at the Polk forums -- you'll likely get more traction there than here on the subject.

Polk Audio Forum

PS What is bu-wiring?

 

[paulgyro]

I’m on the door step of getting the L600 for $2150 all in, new unopened in box (a friend bought and missed the return window never opened)
If I do pull the trigger I’ll be getting either 2x Hypex Nila500 monoblocks OR getting 2x Hypex Nila500 stereo amps to bi-amp the L600

I’ve seen very little commentary on bu-wiring or bi-wiring these so if anyone has tried that’d be coool to hear

… I might also try just 1 Nila500 stereo amp to see if I’m blown away enough to save some $$$ - probably the smart move

BI-amping can have some value. Bi-wiring, none. Just get some good 12 or 14 Guage blue Jean cable and be done with it.

 

[JohnnyNG]

I’m on the door step of getting the L600 for $2150 all in, new unopened in box (a friend bought and missed the return window never opened)
If I do pull the trigger I’ll be getting either 2x Hypex Nila500 monoblocks OR getting 2x Hypex Nila500 stereo amps to bi-amp the L600

I’ve seen very little commentary on bu-wiring or bi-wiring these so if anyone has tried that’d be coool to hear

… I might also try just 1 Nila500 stereo amp to see if I’m blown away enough to save some $$$ - probably the smart move

I managed to score a pair of L600 for $1619 + tax (50% off sale price) during Polk's most recent sale and am really enjoying them. Loads of slam and dynamics powered by Purifi 1ET400A mono amps (Audiophonics MPA-M400ET). Bass is off-the-charts.

I've never bothered bi-wiring before but am doing it with these for two reasons. One, I really love the solid connection and contact I get from my Blue Jeans cable w/ locking bananas and it bothered me to connect to only one pair of posts using that termination - silly as that sounds when I actually write it down.

The other is this bit from the guys at Purifi:

Lars: Having a super low output impedance does have one real benefit: it makes bi-wiring work. The whole point of bi-wiring is to isolate the tweeter and woofer portions electrically. If you have a common impedance in series with the speaker, distorted currents produced by the woofer will turn into a distorted output voltage which in turn is seen by the tweeter section. So if you want bi-wiring to work its magic you really do need an extremely low output impedance, which is the same as super high DF of course.

Bruno: Good point, a hundred might not be enough then. I think people resort to bi-amping when their amps don’t have low enough output impedance for bi-wiring to do the trick. So for a serious audiophile having really high DF is a real advantage, if only financially.

https://audiophilestyle.com/ca/bits...eaders-qa-with-lars-risbo-bruno-putzeys-r815/

So, I have no idea if it makes a measurable difference but that's why I did it.

As an aside, I came across these basic measurements for the L600:

Polk Audio Legend L600

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