newbie (to asr) with annoying questions (and saying "hi")

[analogonly]

1) User name chosen to be unnecessarily provocative. In addition to vinyl collection not being digitized anytime soon, also have numerous CDs and looking to get into storage and streaming options, but slowly.
2) Need a new CD player or transport and don't want to waste a lot of money--less than $1k (the lower the better). Suggestions?
3) If #2 is a transport, I will need a DAC--same $ concerns and limits.
4) Storage and streaming recommendations? What sort of budget will I need to plan?
Now for the controversial parts:
5) Currently using all tube electronics--Audible Illusions Modulus 3A preamp and either Yamamoto 08(S) amp (SET 45 output tube, lucky if it makes 1.5 watts into a reasonable impedance loudspeaker--in this case a custom built Foster FE206ESR/TA90AEX backhorn) or Quicksilver Silver Monos (90 wt KT 88s into MartinLogan Quest [original model]). Assuming reasonable flat frequency response (probably a fair assumption) and stated power (never a fair assumption), my usual complaints with electronics are timbre and dynamics (both micro and macro--not to be confused with "loud"). As I age, my tolerance for fussiness and tube aging has diminished. I would also like to downsize, but remain future-proof for these "mature" technologies. Yes, I consider class D amplification to be reasonably mature, albeit only lately. My concern here is that many of the loudspeakers that I may change to in the future (the raggedy frequency response of my high-efficiency backhorn is no longer tolerable and the MartinLogans may be physically too large for a downsized home) are low efficiency and/or low impedance. So, electronic considerations are:
a) CODA CSib or Gryphon Diablo 120 (or its presumably upcoming replacement) if integrated. Would the Buckeye Integrated, when available, be a bridge too far for me?
b) CODA 07x or Benchmark LA4 line stage if not integrated.
c) Buckeye NCorex500 amp. Other options? See my loudspeaker choices for the potential problems.
d) Phono stage--probably one of the ones highly rated by ASR for MM. Haven't chosen a cartridge yet, but as my ancient Grado gave up the ghost, leaning to the Audio-Technica VM750SH.
6) Loudspeakers:
a) Passive--Soundlabs (size room dependent) or Magico (probably A5 but would prefer A3 if they incorporated A5 technology). Any idea why the S3 has better vertical dispersion than the A5?
b) Active--obviously removes the need for an amplifier--ATC 40a or Neumann KH310. Yes, I am aware that they are massively mispriced relative to each other and that the KH420 is competitive price-wise with the ATC 40a and a much more capable loudspeaker. I am also considering it and need no advice in that direction. I am interested in thoughts on comparing ATC 40a and KH310 without reference to price.
c) Subwoofers--probably none due to downsizing. If any, probably a Rythmik swarm.
Final note--I have no interest in digitizing my analog source (yes, I know that many of my records are digitally mastered; I also have many pre-CD era records). So, no advice regarding anything that mandates an ADC or DSP that affects the signal from cartridge though and including the loudspeakers. Fine if it only affects the digital side of the chain.
Thanks to all who respond with helpful advice. In the interests of comity, I will not respond to any replies using the terms "golden ears" (which I do not profess to possess), "boomer" (I am), or other snark used by a subset of members here.

 

[fpitas]

2) Need a new CD player or transport and don't want to waste a lot of money--less than $1k (the lower the better). Suggestions?

I bought a Blu-Ray player, in my case an Oppo BDP-95; but there are plenty of other good ones around that are cheaper.

 

[antcollinet]

1 - You'll fit in well here
2 - Don't listen to people who tell you CD transports with digitial outputs need to cost a lot to sound perfect. Basically any transport delivering via toslink will sound the same as any other. So get the least expensive that meets your needs for build quality, after sales support, features etc.
4 - Same for DACS. All well engineered DACS will basically sound the same (Perfect). So ignore sound quality issues, select from those measured here in the green/blue bands of the chart and go for features/price/after sales again. Seriously consider a DAC with balanced ouput capability if you amp supports it.
5 - Get an amp based on Hypex or Purify class D modules. Choose one with balanced inputs to go with. your balanced dac. You'll get all the power you need with stelar performance.


Speakers I'll leave to others.


EDIT Rotel CD 11 will do a perfectly good job, and leave you plenty in your pocket for a DAC.

 

[fpitas]

Speakers I'll leave to others.

The best is to design and construct your own. It builds character.

/

 

[JP]

4) How much storage do you need, what streaming services do you want to use, and do you want turnkey or DIY?

5d) I'd go with the 740ML over the 750SH. An ML will last longer and retain its minor radius for its useful life, where the minor radius on a Shibata will increase as it wears. In either case, if you want a flatter response you'll need very low capacitance (150pF or better). For truly flat to 14kHz on these families (500/700) you'd also need to lower the load resistance to around 34k, which would require modification to the phono stage.

 

[SteveC]

I can strongly recommend the Audio-Technica VM740ML. I'm not at all sure that the 750 is worth the additional cost over the 740 or 540.

Review of the 760 and 740 here, and they do measurements! https://hometheaterhifi.com/feature...dio-technica-vm760slc-phono-cartridge-review/

Review of the 540 here: https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews...udio-technica-vm540ml-phono-cartridge-review/

 

[JeffS7444]

2) Need a new CD player or transport and don't want to waste a lot of money--less than $1k (the lower the better). Suggestions?

If you don't mind it looking like something you salvaged, an old DVD or B-D player or game console might work nicely. Personal preference is to have a full set of front panel controls and display, which some older video players have.

 

[SteveC]

One other comment about the 740. I use a Parks Audio Puffin for analog and lately I've been setting the treble control at -1 and the air control at -1, adding just a tiny bit of roll off to the upper frequencies. I'm probably deluding myself but I believe it is just a tiny bit better than flat on most LPs.

 

[Multicore]

Re CD in a player/transport: I have an Asus Blu-ray drive in my computer instead. It's better. I insert the CD into the drive and rip it to the file server. Then I put the CD away with the thousands of others that used to clutter our living space but are now in storage waiting for their turn to be at the center of a Portlandia-style retro revival, which I calculate will be at its peak 18 years from now. Until then we can play it on the living room system, on our computers, on our phones etc. Streaming FTW.

Welcome to ASR.

 

[totti1965]

Speaker:
1. Visit the database https://www.spinorama.org/ for objective unbiased Information.
2. use the Buttons Top left and Top Right!
3. Chose measuring Quality high
4. if you are able to make some kind of Equalisation (so, if you are a Roon User) you can generate a Ranking List
In which every speaker ist Listed / ranked by it’s Quality it would have with a bit of parametric equalisation
5. Chose passive Speakers
6. consider to buy the Epos ES 14 N - Constructed bei Karl-Heinz Fink

Just by coincidence it is also the Second of about 500 speakers Sort by Date, because it is brand new.
The Advantage over the ATC is not only by Price (USD 4.000,— vs. USD 10.000,— /Pair) but also
the Bass of the Epos ES 14 N ist deeper than the Bass of the ATC 40 a (41.6 Hz vs. 48 Hz - nearly a quater of an octave).
The soundpressure you can reach will most likely be pretty much the same: 6.5 Inch plus 3 Inch the ATC (equals a 9 inch Mid- woofer)
Full 7 inch but with a Voice coil with an extremely long stroke (hey it’s 2023!) for the Epos.

7. Most likely the ATC would not surpass the Neumann KH 310 - which is very good, but not overwhelmingly Good - at least not by far. The Neumann KH 310 is to good: Much lower Bass and nice, flat frequency response.

8. You Need an amp like the Fosi V3 (USD 110,—) or better to get your 102 dB Peak with the Epos.

9. If you choose: Ranking without equalisation the things will change a little bit: Spinorama will suggest the Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX as a nice passive Speaker over the Epos!

10. if you want Active Speakers and only Active Speakers you can get more Quality, but e.g. the Dutch & Dutch 8c is also about USD 10.000,— - Same Price Range as the ATC 40 a.

11. The Buchardt Audio A 500 that you may consider because of the Good Ranking can‘t deliver extreme Sound Pressure AND Deep Bass at the Same Time!
Amir has checked the A 400 (passive) and didn‘t love it, bacause of it’s very very thin Speaker cabinet and some Resonances.
I don‘t know, if the A 500 has the Same issues…..

12. So put the Epos ES 14 - a passive 35 pounds heavy speaker - on your shortlist! Strongly recommended by SpiNorama.com
And even without any equalisation a good bit more pleasent than the KH 310 (6.5 vs. 6.1 Points)

13. if you don‘t need extreme Sound pressure: Consider also the Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX passive speaker for only USD 1.500,— / pair!

14. All those speaker developers use the Klippel System!

15. things will change if you want to add a woofer:
Then Spinorama likes the smaler Genelec (8030 c) or Neumann (KH 120 II, KH 150) 2- way Speakers very much!

16. Great Choices for Active speakers besides of the Dutch & Dutch 8:
a) Kii audio three
b) Mesanovic CDM 65 (also a bit small, like the Buchardt Audio)
c) GGNTKT M 1

Resumée:

But best „bang for the buck“ will now (Oktober 2023) be to go passive with an Epos ES 14 and a Fosi V3 or a cheap Hypex Amplifier (from USD 444,- on) - if and really just if you don‘t want to Chose this Forums favorite - The Neumann KH 150 Even without a Sub! Extreme low Distortions - less than the KH 310! Extreme flat frequency response and nice Spinorama!
Can do extreme Sound pressure AND: Cheaper than the KH 310.
Minus 6 dB Point is 36.6 Hz vs 48 Hz of the ATC so the KH 150 reached more than 1/3 of an octave deeper than the ATC.

By the way: I‘ve listened to a large ATC SCM 150 ASLT (EUR 34.800,— / pair) Active Speaker Yesterday at „Deutsche HiFi Tage 2023“. Nice Speaker!

Yes! And Build your speaker by yourself: this one will kill all of them:






Thorsten

 

[totti1965]

The best is to design and construct your own. It builds character.

/

That nails it!!!

 

[Salt]

Want it simple?
- RME ADI 2/4 pro with MM! for playback and transfer vinyl to digital
- Eversolo DMP A6 as streamer/network player (internal up to 4 TB NVME)
- Purify or Hypex amp / active speakers alternatively

That's my way.

edit: ripping all CD using a simple USB-drive via Exact Audio Copy on the Laptop, save it on NAS and then transfer it form there to the Eversolo. No need for CD Player (the EMT 982 did'nt warm up for months)

 

[Salt]

Yes! And Build your speaker by yourself: this one will kill all of them:

The WaveMon or the Amton?

 

[Inertiaman]

That nails it!!!

Or glues it.

 

[fpitas]

Or glues it.

In my case it screws it, and glues it.

 

[tmtomh]

Welcome @analogonly !

1. A username is one of the most personal choices in online life - unless it's obscene or something like "ASRsucks" there's no need to justify; all good!
2. Because there are so many affordable CD transports and a lot of perfectly good-sounding CD players (with built-in DAC functionality), I'll go a slightly different route and suggest that you consider a unit that's quiet when playing discs - not all of them are. I have a Sony UPB-X800mk2 Blu-Ray/universal disc transport, which I think costs about $250 or less. It's got a nice, decently heavy metal case that helps keep the drive mechanism's mechanical sounds from being audible; it's low-profile and super-inconspicuous with no active display while the disc is playing; and it's very quiet when spinning discs. A lot of cheap transports will periodically emit little beeps and other sounds from the transport when playing discs (most often between tracks, when such noises are most audible). To me, this is a far more audible and distracting issue than any alleged difference between an ESS, AKM, or Wolfson/Cirrus DAC. Just something to think about.
3. There are plenty of DACs that are audibly transparent - that is, they can convert the digital data to an analogue output with frequency response linearity, noise levels, and distortion levels that all exceed the capabilities of human hearing. A bunch of them have been measured and reviewed here. Personally if I were in the market for a standalone DAC, I'd probably set my budget at $250 or less, and that's being generous - you simply don't need to spend much to get first-rate DAC performance anymore.
4. For storage I'd say 1 terabyte is a minimum for a decent-sized music collection, and however much capacity and however many drives you need to store your digital music, double or triple that because you need at least that much capacity for backups, and ideally you'll want two backups. If you are just streaming from online services, then you don't really need any storage capacity.
5. For amplification I would echo others' recommendation: a decent Purifi 1ET400a-based amp, or Hypex Nilai-based amp, will be the best choice unless you are driving super-inefficient or very low impedance (like 2 ohm) speakers, in which case to be safe you might instead want a Purifi 1ET7040-based amp or a Hypex NCx-based amp. On the other hand, there's no reason to get rid of your tube gear if you enjoy it.
6. For speakers I am an active-speaker convert. But regardless of whether you want actives or passives, I second the recommendation above to look at spinorama.org and check out the reviews here. Personally I'm also a convert to coaxial designs, but there are so many different speaker preferences and so many good speakers out there with different designs that it's hard to give a recommendation for someone else.

Good luck - and have fun!

 

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[totti1965]

The WaveMon or the Amton?

Ha ha ha,
Yes nice Coincidence: I wanted to show the WaveMon 182/22 - pretty much the same construction ideas than the Epos ES 14 N! It is from german Speaker builder magazine „Hobby HiFi“ and i guess one of the best compact two ways Bernd Timmermanns ever had engeneered.
But you are Right: The AmTon from Germany Speaker Builder Magazine „Klang & Ton“ (the right side) is one of the best large speakers in the World. It will cost you about EUR 20.000,— / Pair.
If I would have the choice and the money, I would build the „Audimax Reference Standard“ from Hobby HiFi, a very very large quasi d’Appolito speaker, and ship it to @amirm for some nice measurements and helping ihm building his muscles, ha ha ha
Same Quality as the AmTon for -Let’s say: EUR 13.000,- / Pair with the work of a good carpenter……
But my wife don‘t let me Build it, ha ha ha!

 

[DVDdoug]

d) Phono stage--probably one of the ones highly rated by ASR for MM. Haven't chosen a cartridge yet, but as my ancient Grado gave up the ghost, leaning to the Audio-Technica VM750SH.

Are you sure you want vinyl at all? Personally, I haven't played vinyl for decades other than occasionally digitizing a record that's not available digitally.

 

[thewas]

Ha ha ha,
Yes nice Coincidence: I wanted to show the WaveMon 182/22 - pretty much the same construction ideas than the Epos ES 14 N! It is from german Speaker builder magazine „Hobby HiFi“ and i guess one of the best compact two ways Bernd Timmermanns ever had engeneered.
But you are Right: The AmTon from Germany Speaker Builder Magazine „Klang & Ton“ (the right side) is one of the best large speakers in the World. It will cost you about EUR 20.000,— / Pair.
If I would have the choice and the money, I would build the „Audimax Reference Standard“ from Hobby HiFi, a very very large quasi d’Appolito speaker, and ship it to @amirm for some nice measurements and helping ihm building his muscles, ha ha ha
Same Quality as the AmTon for -Let’s say: EUR 13.000,- / Pair with the work of a good carpenter……
But my wife don‘t let me Build it, ha ha ha!

Those loudspeakers you mention above, while having very good drivers are by far not the world best compared with the agreed standards here as their directivity engineering is limited. Just an example look what happens at 30° off-axis at the Amton (not to talk about the vertical angles which are not shown in any of H&H or K+T designs):

Source: https://www.hifitest.de/test/lautsprecherbausaetze/lautsprechershop-amton-22437

By the way Amton is not engineered by the magazine Klang+Ton but the Lautsprechershop.