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New SMSL A300 BTL Class-d Power Amp

keenerz

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Please read my report on page 3. I've posted a few about BTL connections.

ah yes i actually read that right after i posted and tried it out that actually allowed me to set them to the *same* db i don’t mind it

Yes please try both Master-Slave method(Using BTL-R loop back RCA R-ch out to slave) and direct-BTL (L-ch only on both) mode.
6 steps on the volume is significant.
In your Master-Slave setup => have you tried swapping the 2 unit (old master becomes new slave while keeping all source settings the same) and does the R-ch becomes the louder channel??
I’ll try to experiment with that. when they’re independent they sound fine but when they are linked together(BTL-R) is when there’s a discrepancy. I’m gonna try to swap them and see.

edit: so I swapped them and same discrepancy maybe I'm doing the master slave mode wrong? Source (IN 1 L+R) > A300 Left > BTL-R > A300 Right (IN1-L)
 
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nsfgp

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Hm ... thanks for the experiment. (EDIT: Your Master-Slave connection looks fine as intended.)
So you swapped the 2 unit doing Master-Slave mode => still it is the L-Ch that is louder (need to raist R-ch 6 steps), correct??
If yes that is very strange and it seems to imply the BTL-R loop back method output lower volume R-Ch signal thru that single RCA.

Did you tried power off the pew switch at the back + unplug cord when you wire them up?? Any chance if you did not do that it somehow retain some volume settings from somewhere ... just a wild guess. Puzzled.
 
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keenerz

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Hm ... thanks for the experiment. (EDIT: Your Master-Slave connection looks fine as intended.)
So you swapped the 2 unit doing Master-Slave mode => still it is the L-Ch that is louder (need to raist R-ch 6 steps), correct??
If yes that is very strange and it seems to imply the BTL-R loop back method output lower volume R-Ch signal thru that single RCA.
Correct, I had to crank up the Right by several db to match the same output of the left

Did you tried power off the pew switch at the back + unplug cord when you wire them up?? Any chance if you did not do that it somehow retain some volume settings from somewhere ... just a wild guess. Puzzled.
I tried to reset them both from the rear switches several times already, i’ll also try a different cable maybe there’s something not right with it? at this point who knows.
 

pickyAudiophile

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Hm ... thanks for the experiment. (EDIT: Your Master-Slave connection looks fine as intended.)
So you swapped the 2 unit doing Master-Slave mode => still it is the L-Ch that is louder (need to raist R-ch 6 steps), correct??
If yes that is very strange and it seems to imply the BTL-R loop back method output lower volume R-Ch signal thru that single RCA.

Did you tried power off the pew switch at the back + unplug cord when you wire them up?? Any chance if you did not do that it somehow retain some volume settings from somewhere ... just a wild guess. Puzzled.
What has been figured initially (see first 5 pages of this thread) is still valid. I wouldn't even call it master-slave as there is actually no slave. There is just one meaningless RCA interconnection which hooks up the second one to some kind of poorly level-matched, poorly rate-of-increase-matched "preamp" output of the first one. That interconnect may even or may not - according to your believes - alter the sound undesirably.
From the first few seconds i saw that pictured in the manual it was clear to me that without control lead (intelligent trigger) it makes no sense at all.
The only real benefit (over bridgeable basic stereo amplifiers with stereo input only) is that it does not require a RCA splitter cable (mono to 2x mono) to feed these amps at full signal level and not just half signal level, as it's possible to set the input section into monaural mode. That's all.
 
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nsfgp

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What has been figured initially (see first 5 pages of this thread) is still valid. I wouldn't even call it master-slave as there is actually no slave. There is just one meaningless RCA interconnection which hooks up the second one to some kind of poorly level-matched, poorly rate-of-increase-matched "preamp" output of the first one. That interconnect may even or may not - according to your believes - alter the sound undesirably.
From the first few seconds i saw that pictured in the manual it was clear to me that without control lead (intelligent trigger) it makes no sense at all.
The only real benefit (over bridgeable basic stereo amplifiers with stereo input only) is that it does not require a RCA splitter cable (mono to 2x mono) to feed these amps at full signal level and not just half signal level, as it's possible to set the input section into monaural mode. That's all.
IMO no need to pick on something added on as extra-feature so to speak. The user manual as expected could be better. But at least it told you how to switch this thing into Monoblock mode + how to wire the speak cable correctly + told you monoblock mode only use/take the L-Ch RCA input.
The info above is enough for anyone here to wire it up correctly as a monoblock directly (without even touching that BTL-R loopback RCA).

The BTL-R loopback is just an extra feature they implemented. It may have potential issue with volume matching to be further confirmed. But you don't have to use it at all. The Sabaj 2022 amps does not have this feature. Most here myself included already said this extra feature is kinda stupid and not needed. I would rather they put the money into better binding post (the binding post now only rely on the screw hole threads as sole contact interface if you use banana plugs).

But this thing sounds very good and no other issue reported so far. Good value especially for those who got it for $150.
 

robertospeed

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I am using SMSL A300 with 2 small Dali Spektor 1 speakers and an Elac active subwoofer, if I activate the high pass mode from SMSL A300 what exactly happens to the Dali Spektor 1 speakers ?
Is it better to activate the high pass mode when using SMSL A300 with Speakers + Subwoofer ?
 

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nsfgp

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Test it yourself it is FUN!!! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzFvCAfIq7a2SIBfDhpCytfJ4RHVb_KLY :)
The HF1 HPF roll off below 50hz or so roughly ... so assuming your sub already took over above that you can just set to HF1. It MAY help the Dali to eliminate any port noise/rumbling when you filter out the low freq. ... for movie it may make more difference than music. But just try to play test tones of 40/45/50/55/60/65/70hz and switch between HF0/1 and see what works best.
 

robertospeed

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Test it yourself it is FUN!!! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLzFvCAfIq7a2SIBfDhpCytfJ4RHVb_KLY :)
The HF1 HPF roll off below 50hz or so roughly ... so assuming your sub already took over above that you can just set to HF1. It MAY help the Dali to eliminate any port noise/rumbling when you filter out the low freq. ... for movie it may make more difference than music. But just try to play test tones of 40/45/50/55/60/65/70hz and switch between HF0/1 and see what works best.
in HF0 the speakers are heard better
 

robertospeed

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That way it sounds even better in my little room

This is my PC workstation. SMSL A300 Amplifier, SMSL SU-9 DAC, SMSL HO200 Headphone Amplifier, Meze 99 Classic Headphone, Spektor 1 DALI Speakers and ELAC DEBUT S10.2 Subwoofer

impianto dali + sub.jpg
 

nsfgp

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Z reviews has a "size/feature" comparison of the A300/DA-6/AO100 side by side on YT. FYI. Not going to call it a review :)
 

senfbrot

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Hey guys,
I need someone to point me in the right direction. I am looking for a DAC/AMP combo <200€ for a nearfield desk setup. I am mostly playing games with my PC and occasionally listening to music via PC or an Android Smartphone via Bluetooth. For speakers I have the old Philips MCD 708, maybe I will upgrade to something like the Dali Oberon 1.
In the last few weeks I have nearly decided for a Loxjie A30, but then I found the new SMSL A300. They are sold for roughly the same price. As I understand, the loxjie has an additional optical input as well as a semi-decent headphone amp, but the SMSL has significantly higher power reserves and a mains-highpass for use with a subwoofer (and a bridge mode, which I don't need).
As I would mostly use the internal DACs via USB, will there be significant differences in DAC quality between those two? Also, the loxjie A30 officially has AptX support and is confirmed to even have AptX-HD in the ASR forum. Could someone owner of the SMSL A300 confirm the lack or implementation of those standards?

Also generally curious which device you would prefer, or if you have other (cheaper?) alternatives. I am also a bit puzzled due to the lack of mentioning the Loxjie in this thread as well as in some Youtube reviews of the SMSL A300. I thought they were very similar products worth comparing, or did I miss some serious difference between those two?
 

pickyAudiophile

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Hey guys,
I need someone to point me in the right direction.
Maybe you should delete and re-post that question in the Newbie/Beginner forum to receive more answers related to comparisons, as it's a little off-topic in here.
The built-in DACs of components like the A300 or Loxjie's A30 are designed for working as sorta backup or on-the-go "problem solver" solution first and foremost. Whereas it requires better speakers than Philips 708/12 to reveal any differences between DACs or Bluetooth codecs.
You may go for the A300. However, all of these Merus MA12070 amps-DACs available for roughly 40 Euros less, among them the A30, have the capability to blow away your ears in a near field setup. Don't even think about purchasing a standalone DAC before having upgraded your speakers. Lowest-budget solution which comes to my mind is SMSL SA300 for 140 Euros and save all the funds available for better speakers, maybe second hand (see hifishark).
 

TonyJZX

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To me this party trick of this piece is the high power... and supposedly clean power.

BTL isnt what its cracked up to be... and IMO I think the power of a single unit should be fine for most.

The BT is a convenience feature and more likely just to add a bullet point to the features list... it only does sbc aac 16/48 - further the PC usb input is a joke... in what universe is a type A to type A cable a sensible design choice??? Is that even a valid usb engineering standard? I suspect not.

However desktop dacs are cheap and they perform well these days.

A sub $200 dac that is better than 24/192 with amazing sinad and performacne is the norm now.

So for under $400 you should have a decent dac amp two box solution.

Now if you want a ONE box solution of the same power with decent dac preaap stage for under $200 then we are not there yet. That day is very close. I would be expecting one of the leading China companies to come to the table very soon.
 

Zek

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ONE box solution of the same power with decent dac preaap stage for under $200 then we are not there yet.
Maybe something like that already exists...

 

TonyJZX

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at less than $120 i mean... yeah that should be a bargain if it even comes close to what it purports to do

at the same time I think a lot of people will be discouraged by the rubbery power figures... its supposed to be 150w x 2 @ 4 ohms...

I would expect a real world 50w 8 ohm at reasonable thd?


a review thread of sorts already here
 

Kitarist

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Hmm the amp started to produce crackling noise on the right channel (was using bluetooth) but when i turn it off and turn it on its fine again. Does anyone have experience with thehificat support?
 

Toku

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Hmm the amp started to produce crackling noise on the right channel (was using bluetooth) but when i turn it off and turn it on its fine again. Does anyone have experience with thehificat support?
Is the symptom the same even if you switch the input mode to RCA input of IN1 and IN2?
Have you also tried the USB input, which uses the BT module's capabilities?
If it's only BT then there might be a problem with the BT module.
 

nsfgp

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Hmm the amp started to produce crackling noise on the right channel (was using bluetooth) but when i turn it off and turn it on its fine again. Does anyone have experience with thehificat support?
Check/Tighten the speaker connector too. The connection with the motherboard is only via the threads of the bolt if you use banana plugs.
 
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Hello,
I have a question about input sensitivity. Right now I am using an SVS Soundpath Tri-Band device (output: 1v) to get wireless rear surrounds from my Yamaha Receiver on RB42s (4-8 Ohms). I'm using my old Sony Receiver which has a rated analog input sensitivity of 500 mV/50 kilohms and a stereo output of 105w/channel at 6 ohms. The A300 shows that it can power 85w at 8ohms and has a sensitivity of .280mv/22 kilohms. What I'm wondering is: how much of a volume difference will I get between the A300 and my old Sony Receiver? Right now I have to crank the Sony to max volume to get it level matched with my front speakers and there's noticable hissing from the speakers; even in pure direct. I'd like to comfortably know I don't have to drive this amp into distortion range just to get level matched audio for surround.
 
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