Lyngdorf 1120 connected to Home Cinema multi channel set up

[Steve356]

Thank you kind sir.

I like the M&K subs and have heard the V12. Personally I think the X10 is better, but the V12 is decent. Is it better than what you have currently? I'm not sure to be honest. The V12 likely won't go as low as your SVS, but it may have a bit more bass slam in the mid bass. If it was me, I don't think I'd make the change, but then I'm not hearing your system, so difficult to be more certain about it. I'm also likely biased as I'm not keen on too much sub 20Hz bass as I find it causes me hearing issues. The M&Ks never cause me any issues where other brands have caused me some problems. I had a Velodyne DD12 before for quite a few years and liked that, but they are super expensive nowadays.

I have Apple TV 4K too, just forgot to mention it. I tend to mostly use it for Netflix and Disney Plus only nowadays, but do get the odd thing on Apple Movies if the prices are right. I still prefer discs for material that I know that I'll watch several times.

I started streaming audio just over a year ago and have trialled most of the services before settling on what I have now, which is Qobuz via Roon. That is straight from my MacBook into my 3400.

 

[Smallboydanger]

Thank you kind sir.

I like the M&K subs and have heard the V12. Personally I think the X10 is better, but the V12 is decent. Is it better than what you have currently? I'm not sure to be honest. The V12 likely won't go as low as your SVS, but it may have a bit more bass slam in the mid bass. If it was me, I don't think I'd make the change, but then I'm not hearing your system, so difficult to be more certain about it. I'm also likely biased as I'm not keen on too much sub 20Hz bass as I find it causes me hearing issues. The M&Ks never cause me any issues where other brands have caused me some problems. I had a Velodyne DD12 before for quite a few years and liked that, but they are super expensive nowadays.

I have Apple TV 4K too, just forgot to mention it. I tend to mostly use it for Netflix and Disney Plus only nowadays, but do get the odd thing on Apple Movies if the prices are right. I still prefer discs for material that I know that I'll watch several times.

I started streaming audio just over a year ago and have trialled most of the services before settling on what I have now, which is Qobuz via Roon. That is straight from my MacBook into my 3400.

I am looking more for tighter bass, speed and accuracy in a sub, if there is not a huge difference in performance compared to the X10 will settle for the V12 butif there is will save up for the X10.
I am on both tidal and quboz but going to cancel and stick with quboz.
Why dont you just stream from your phone using Google cast but rather connected via a macbook pro
Keep hearing about roon but never tried it, what does roon have to offer?

 

[Steve356]

I am looking more for tighter bass, speed and accuracy in a sub, if there is not a huge difference in performance compared to the X10 will settle for the V12 butif there is will save up for the X10.
I am on both tidal and quboz but going to cancel and stick with quboz.
Why dont you just stream from your phone using Google cast but rather connected via a macbook pro
Keep hearing about roon but never tried it, what does roon have to offer?

I would say that the X10 was quite a bit better than the V12, but then it should be at 2x the price. You literally could have 2 V12s against a single X10, providing you have the room for them. A lot depends though on your room size and seating positions though.

I only use Qobuz after trying everything except Deezer.

I don't have a Googlecast option on my 3400. On the 3400, you get Tidal Connect instead of Googlecast.

Roon is decent enough, but for my use, it's really more expensive than I would like. I only took on a 1 year subscription and that is due to finish in early October. I'm hoping that Qobuz will come out with something like a final version of the UPnP interface or a competitive product to Tidal Connect by then. If they do, I'd likely drop Roon.

 

[onion]

I have two X10s and 2 SVS SB16s. They are similarly priced. The SB16s are much much better (bass extension, headroom) than the X10s.
Using all 4 subs with a miniDSP to control levels, delays and EQ is way way better than a pair of either subs alone. It's much better than twice as good. In fact using those 4 subs is way better than using 3 subs with miniDSP.

I have a 3400. Again, I tried a bunch of permutations including
- RoomPerfect 'stereo subs' (either SB16 pair or X10 pair)
- RoomPerfect 'stereo virtual subs' (two subs lt side of room, two subs rt side of room, connected by Y connectors to the 3400)
- miniDSP 4-subs and apply RoomPerfect to the single virtual sub that miniDSP effectively creates

Again using 4 subs with miniDSP and then RoomPerfect to integrate that virtual sub to the mains, is far far better than the other options.

 

[Smallboydanger]

I have two X10s and 2 SVS SB16s. They are similarly priced. The SB16s are much much better (bass extension, headroom) than the X10s.
Using all 4 subs with a miniDSP to control levels, delays and EQ is way way better than a pair of either subs alone. It's much better than twice as good. In fact using those 4 subs is way better than using 3 subs with miniDSP.

I have a 3400. Again, I tried a bunch of permutations including
- RoomPerfect 'stereo subs' (either SB16 pair or X10 pair)
- RoomPerfect 'stereo virtual subs' (two subs lt side of room, two subs rt side of room, connected by Y connectors to the 3400)
- miniDSP 4-subs and apply RoomPerfect to the single virtual sub that miniDSP effectively creates

Again using 4 subs with miniDSP and then RoomPerfect to integrate that virtual sub to the mains, is far far better than the other options.

Thanks for sharing this with me will have to look into it further asI have no idea how to create virtual subs yet. Have you heard the sb 3000 sub?
How does it compare to the X10?
At the moment I dont have much room space and can oonly have one sub which is an Svs SB-12 Nsd hooked up to a mini dsp 2 by 4 (not hd version). I have not finished configuring the mini dsp as I am still learning about it
My question is that with just one sub is using a minidsp worth it?
I will be looking to upgrade my sub in future and still undecided as to what to get.

 

[onion]

Not heard the SB3000. All I'd say is that given the choice between two subs and four lesser subs at half the price, I'd always go for the 4-sub option with miniDSP.

Virtual subs is when the miniDSP multiple sub outputs are connected to a single AVR/ amplifier input. In that case, when carrying out room correction via the AVR/ Amp, the amp only 'sees' one sub whose distance from the listening position is unknown even though there are multiple real subs in the room with known distances to the listening position.

Not sure the miniDSP is worth buying for bass management for a single sub alone. I think using RoomPerfect would be the better option.

 

[Smallboydanger]

Already have the minidsp so wondering if it can still be put to good use or should retire it till I get a second sub?

 

[onion]

Already have the minidsp so wondering if it can still be put to good use or should retire it till I get a second sub?

You can use it but if you have a Lyngdorf 1120 anyway (which can independently eq 2 subs with 2 mains), I think you'd be better off using that alone. It's only if you have more than two subs that the miniDSP would be worth using IMO.

 

[thecolorhero]

Not an 1120, but a Lyngdorf TDAi 3400 for me. However, the connections and set up are virtually the same.

I have the FL & FR outputs from my AVR connected to the L & R analog inputs of the Lyngdorf. My sub is connected to the Lyngdorf. On my AVR, I set FL & FR to "Large" and Sub to "None". On the Lyngdorf, I set the input from my AVR to "Theater Bypass" and this results in the AVR controlling the volume. Finally, I have a trigger cable connected between the AVR and the Lyngdorf so that when I switch on the AVR, the Lyngdorf is switched on too.

Even though my AVR has Dirac capability, I don't use it as I greatly prefer what RoomPerfect achieves in my room. Instead, I cross over my other speakers at 80 Hz so that RP also helps with the bass on those. Note that I only run a 5.1 system.

Hope this helps.

Hello. I would like to ask you how can i match the front left and right speaker volume to the rest of the speakers? I have an Arcam Avr 390 and a Lyngdrof Tdai 2170. The left and right speaker volume level is way below the speakers powered by the Arcam Avr. Thanks

 

[onion]

Hello. I would like to ask you how can i match the front left and right speaker volume to the rest of the speakers? I have an Arcam Avr 390 and a Lyngdrof Tdai 2170. The left and right speaker volume level is way below the speakers powered by the Arcam Avr. Thanks

Go to 'input setup' settings on the TDAI. Click on the relevant input for your AVR. Adjust the sensitivity (range 0 - 24db) so that the volume matches between Arcam and Lyngdorf.

 

[thecolorhero]

Go to 'input setup' settings on the TDAI. Click on the relevant input for your AVR. Adjust the sensitivity (range 0 - 24db) so that the volume matches between Arcam and Lyngdorf.

Should i do this with Theatre Bypass enabled or disabled?

 

[onion]

I did. I had the same issue to you with an Anthem Avr and a Lyngdorf TDAI. I don’t think it actually matters for volume matching between different speakers

 

[Steve356]

Menu - Input Settings - Analog 1 (assuming this is the input connected to your AVR) - Theater Mode Enabled - Increase Sensitivity to match the level of your other speakers (assuming you have those set to 75 dB SPL at your MLP) - Save

On my 3400 connected to my AVR850, I have to set the sensitivity to +10 dB on the Analog 1 input only. Doesn't matter if RoomPerfect is On or Off for this adjustment.

Alternatively, depending on the sensitivity of your other speakers, you can leave the 2170 as it is and reduce the other speakers on your 390 to match the FL & FR. It doesn't matter as long as all the speakers are levelled.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[thecolorhero]

Menu - Input Settings - Analog 1 (assuming this is the input connected to your AVR) - Theater Mode Enabled - Increase Sensitivity to match the level of your other speakers (assuming you have those set to 75 dB SPL at your MLP) - Save

On my 3400 connected to my AVR850, I have to set the sensitivity to +10 dB on the Analog 1 input only. Doesn't matter if RoomPerfect is On or Off for this adjustment.

Alternatively, depending on the sensitivity of your other speakers, you can leave the 2170 as it is and reduce the other speakers on your 390 to match the FL & FR. It doesn't matter as long as all the speakers are levelled.

Hope this makes sense.

Just to make it clear , i write it down where i am at the moment. In the Avr 390 i have set distances according to the Lyngdorf manual. It says i have to measure distances from Left and Right speakers and add 52 cm-s to it and input this distance to the avr. Its done. I have all channel levels at 0 in the avr. Room Perfect is done in Lyngdorf. The thing is when i measure the volume levels with the spl meter, the front left and right level is so low , i have to adjust sensitivity to max on Lyngdorf . In this case the speakers are having a small humming noise. It is probably because the speaker are powerd quite strongly. Same when i turn on Theater Bypass and change sensitivity. What do you think??

 

[Steve356]

Just to make it clear , i write it down where i am at the moment. In the Avr 390 i have set distances according to the Lyngdorf manual. It says i have to measure distances from Left and Right speakers and add 52 cm-s to it and input this distance to the avr. Its done. I have all channel levels at 0 in the avr. Room Perfect is done in Lyngdorf. The thing is when i measure the volume levels with the spl meter, the front left and right level is so low , i have to adjust sensitivity to max on Lyngdorf . In this case the speakers are having a small humming noise. It is probably because the speaker are powerd quite strongly. Same when i turn on Theater Bypass and change sensitivity. What do you think??

You shouldn't have to turn up the sensitivity on the Lyngdorf to maximum (+24dB). Having it that high will almost certainly result in issues with hum. When I had a 2170 in my system on trial, I had to set up the analog input to +10db exactly the same as I have my 3400 set now. My Arcam AVR850 should behave the same way as your 390 in terms of setting levels. My FL & FR (and Centre) speakers aren't very efficient so I set them at +2.5dB in the Arcam, my rear speakers are more efficient and are set at -2.0dB. With sensitivity increased to +10dB on the input I have the AVR connected to, I get 75dB measured on my SPL meter on all the speakers using the Arcam test tones.

Forget about adding 52cm to the distance for now.

1. What distances for your FL & FR speakers and sub(s) do you have set in the Lyngdorf?

2. What distances have you set in the 390?

3. What speakers and sub(s) do you have?

4. I assume that you are not trying to use Dirac with RoomPerfect - am I correct?

5. I assume you have connected your sub to the Lyngdorf - is this correct?

 

[thecolorhero]

You shouldn't have to turn up the sensitivity on the Lyngdorf to maximum (+24dB). Having it that high will almost certainly result in issues with hum. When I had a 2170 in my system on trial, I had to set up the analog input to +10db exactly the same as I have my 3400 set now. My Arcam AVR850 should behave the same way as your 390 in terms of setting levels. My FL & FR (and Centre) speakers aren't very efficient so I set them at +2.5dB in the Arcam, my rear speakers are more efficient and are set at -2.0dB. With sensitivity increased to +10dB on the input I have the AVR connected to, I get 75dB measured on my SPL meter on all the speakers using the Arcam test tones.

Forget about adding 52cm to the distance for now.

1. What distances for your FL & FR speakers and sub(s) do you have set in the Lyngdorf?

2. What distances have you set in the 390?

3. What speakers and sub(s) do you have?

4. I assume that you are not trying to use Dirac with RoomPerfect - am I correct?

5. I assume you have connected your sub to the Lyngdorf - is this correct?

HI. My Sub is connected to the Avr 390. I didnt set any distances in the Lyngdorf. In the Avr i have set 289cm +52 cm for left and right speakers. I have Monitor Audio Silver 300 speakers and a Rel Ht1003 sub. I didnt do any Dirac calbartion yet .

 

[Steve356]

HI. My Sub is connected to the Avr 390. I didnt set any distances in the Lyngdorf. In the Avr i have set 289cm +52 cm for left and right speakers. I have Monitor Audio Silver 300 speakers and a Rel Ht1003 sub. I didnt do any Dirac calbartion yet .

It's up to you, but personally I wouldn't set it up the way you have it.

The way I have my system set up is with the FL & FR speakers and the sub connected to the Lyngdorf, with the sub connected to the Left Output and to the sub's low level LFE input. I enter the distances measured from the MLP to the front of the speakers and the distance from the MLP to the wall behind the sub per Lyngdorf's recommendations. My AVR FL & FR outputs are connected to the Analog 1 input of the Lyngdorf and I increase the sensitivity of this input to +10dB. On the AVR, I set FL & FR speakers to Large and the other 3 speakers to Small, Sub is set to None. Distances for all the speakers are set as measured on the AVR, I don't add 52cm as when I looked at the responses I was getting in REW, it looked better integrated without that additional delay. In the Lyngdorf, I have the crossover set to 80 Hz, while in the AVR, I have set the crossover to 200 Hz as this sounds the best to me and also measured best with REW.

Doing things that way I've described means that RoomPerfect will correct the bass response of your sub in the same way it does for your FL & FR speakers. You should have no problems getting sufficient output from your speakers as they are quite a sensitive design.

Hope this helps.

 

[thecolorhero]

It's up to you, but personally I wouldn't set it up the way you have it.

The way I have my system set up is with the FL & FR speakers and the sub connected to the Lyngdorf, with the sub connected to the Left Output and to the sub's low level LFE input. I enter the distances measured from the MLP to the front of the speakers and the distance from the MLP to the wall behind the sub per Lyngdorf's recommendations. My AVR FL & FR outputs are connected to the Analog 1 input of the Lyngdorf and I increase the sensitivity of this input to +10dB. On the AVR, I set FL & FR speakers to Large and the other 3 speakers to Small, Sub is set to None. Distances for all the speakers are set as measured on the AVR, I don't add 52cm as when I looked at the responses I was getting in REW, it looked better integrated without that additional delay. In the Lyngdorf, I have the crossover set to 80 Hz, while in the AVR, I have set the crossover to 200 Hz as this sounds the best to me and also measured best with REW.

Doing things that way I've described means that RoomPerfect will correct the bass response of your sub in the same way it does for your FL & FR speakers. You should have no problems getting sufficient output from your speakers as they are quite a sensitive design.

Hope this helps.

I will try that setup aswell. So you entered the left, right and sub distances in the Lyngdorf? How is your Phase on your Subwoofer? 180 or 0?

 

[thecolorhero]

I will try that setup aswell. So you entered the left, right and sub distances in the Lyngdorf? How is your Phase on your Subwoofer? 180 or 0?

An i assume if i connect the sub to the Lyngdorf then i should do a new room perfect calibration aswell??

 

[Steve356]

Yes, enter the FL & FR speaker distances in the Lyngdorf. Measure from your listening position to the front of your speakers. Then enter the sub distance in the Lyngdorf, which should be measured from your listening position to the wall behind your sub. The only additional distance I add to the sub is the delay in the sub due to the electronics in it, which in my case is 2ms (68cm) and is provided by the sub manufacturer. I'm not sure anything is required for your REL, but you could ask them if any is necessary. Don't worry about it too much though.

I have sub phase set to 0.

Yes, you will need to do a new RoomPerfect calibration. You might want to save your current settings in the Lyngdorf first in case you want to go back to them.