Looking for a 12v trigger transmitter & receiver

[win]

I can't seem to find a product that I'm pretty sure should exist.

I (am about to) have two subwoofers in the back of my room, that accept 12v trigger connection. I like this for these subs because their auto-on doesn't always turn on when listening at lower volumes. It also allows me to press a single button on my amp and turn off all my subwoofers, which is great because my headphone jack does not turn off the system when in use.

is there a product out there that will take the state of a 12v trigger input and transmit it wirelessly to another device that will output the same?

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

All you need is a regular audio transmitter and receiver. The receiver will auto-on your subs.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[win]

All you need is a regular audio transmitter and receiver. The receiver will auto-on your subs.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

I thought about that but wouldn't the trigger not work because the rca 2v is so much lower than the 12v ?

 

[samsa]

This is probably not quite what you were asking for, but one of these (4 channels) or these (1-channel) will let you control 1 or more 12v triggers with an IR remote. They're programmable, so I use the same remote that I use for the rest of my system.

But I guess I'm not quite understanding what your issue is. If you're already running an RCA (or XLR) cable to your sub(s), why not a trigger cable as well?

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

I assume your sub has an auto on feature when it gets an audio signal? Just plug the wireless receiver into the sub’s audio inputs. If the sub’s auto on feature isn’t working well, it’s probably because it needs a hotter signal. The wireless receiver should have a gain control that will take care of that. If not, just increase the signal level at the AVR.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[win]

But I guess I'm not quite understanding what your issue is. If you're already running an RCA (or XLR) cable to your sub(s), why not a trigger cable as well?

for that I'm using a wireless audio transmitter. It is cd quality and near 0 latency so I don't have any qualms about that.

DYNASTY PROAUDIO WSA-5TR 5.8G Wireless Audio Transmitter/Receiver Adaptor for Powered Subwoofer Speaker ONLY https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07Y5NJXG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_WsEUFbSBHQHGN

assume your sub has an auto on feature when it gets an audio signal? Just plug the wireless receiver into the sub’s audio inputs. If the sub’s auto on feature isn’t working well, it’s probably because it needs a hotter signal. The wireless receiver should have a gain control that will take care of that. If not, just increase the signal level at the AVR.

Unfortunately, this won't work. I need the subwoofers to turn off via trigger because they will see an audio input during headphone usage, and I don't want them to play music in that scenario

 

[win]

these (1-channel)

I did see that one, but I can't figure out how it works because it only seems to come with a transmitter, not a receiver (?)

 

[samsa]

I did see that one, but I can't figure out how it works because it only seems to come with a transmitter, not a receiver (?)

No. It's an IR receiver, controlling 1 or more relays. It comes with an IR remote. But the receiver is programmable. So I programmed it to respond to unused button(s) on my system remote.

 

[mSpot]

You might be able to rig up something using this device: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QS89MZG/

 

[win]

You might be able to rig up something using this device: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QS89MZG/

Funny enough I recommended this product in a different thread for a different use case

if that read analog input instead of toslink, it would be gold.

I hope I can find something, I don't want to have to jerry-rig a solution.

 

[Vasr]

If you are unable to find a direct 12v wireless solution, the alternate solution is to use wireless mains plug-point/strip to which the subs are plugged in and controlled wirelessly. These are much more common and easily available.

If you get an IR controlled one, you can use it to control the power to the subs and program it to a remote. You can also simulate the 12v trigger to the sub if necessary by using simple 6-12v wall warts with their plug end replaced by split audio jacks and the power to wall warts controlled by the above IR controlled power plug-point/strip.

If you still want to tie it to the amp trigger out, then you feed that trigger out to a mains relay and plug in a wireless power controller to that relay which will then control the power/wall warts at the subs end.

 

[win]

If you are unable to find a direct 12v wireless solution, the alternate solution is to use wireless mains plug-point/strip to which the subs are plugged in and controlled wirelessly. These are much more common and easily available.

If you get an IR controlled one, you can use it to control the power to the subs and program it to a remote. You can also simulate the 12v trigger to the sub if necessary by using simple 6-12v wall warts with their plug end replaced by split audio jacks and the power to wall warts controlled by the above IR controlled power plug-point/strip.

If you still want to tie it to the amp trigger out, then you feed that trigger out to a mains relay and plug in a wireless power controller to that relay which will then control the power/wall warts at the subs end.

Interesting. I need to wrap my brain around that a bit more then. I do also have a raspberry pi Homeassistant that can automate such things with smart plugs, as well as a few extra smart plugs laying around.

Thanks for the tip.

If I could somehow read the voltage of my current 12v trigger out and pass that to my homeassistant, this would be so clean!

 

[mSpot]

Funny enough I recommended this product in a different thread for a different use case

if that read analog input instead of toslink, it would be gold.

I hope I can find something, I don't want to have to jerry-rig a solution.

It is certainly possible to set up, although with more boxes than you probably had in mind.
Y-splitter cable from your wireless receiver, one branch going to your sub and the other branch to a Toslink converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HGHNCMW, then Toslink output to the BobWire 12V trigger device linked earlier.

 

[samsa]

Some pics of an assembled IR-controlled 12V trigger unit (only 2 of the 4 channels are in use):

 

[Vasr]

If I could somehow read the voltage of my current 12v trigger out and pass that to my homeassistant, this would be so clean!

Edit: I guess you meant feed that trigger to the homeassisant to detect? Not just measure what voltage it is which can be done with a multi-meter.

As a simply DIY, you can connect the trigger out with plug stripped off to a 12v automotive relay and then use its open/close contacts to feed it to the home assistant. I am not that familiar with the HA to figure out how to use that information for what you need to do.

PS: And before people start laughing at why measure a 12v trigger, the trigger can output in a wide range even if labeled 12v. Most equipment labeled 12v can take anything from 6v or above. They just need to detect a change. So, if you need the exact voltage for a given amp you would need to measure it.

 

[win]

you meant feed that trigger to the homeassisant to detect?

correct


I made the trigger wire for the new subs.

https://imgur.com/HCnYNdN

Now I need to send the trigger out voltage to the pi...

maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00ODL140M/

the pi documentation seems to specify a max of 3.3v for the GPIO pins

 

[somebodyelse]

The Pi GPIO pins are relatively fragile - feed them too much voltage and you'll kill the pin, or the whole Pi. Have a search for opto isolated GPIO inputs - you can probably get an off the shelf board to do it, or make your own using a circuit similar to the one in this thread. Other options are a simple resistor divider to drop 12V to 3.3V, or something like a 4049 hex inverter powered from the Pi's 3.3V supply, but the optos provide most protection plus galvanic isolation, and are easily replaced if you blow the LED through overvoltage or just using the wrong resistor.

 

[win]

The Pi GPIO pins are relatively fragile - feed them too much voltage and you'll kill the pin, or the whole Pi. Have a search for opto isolated GPIO inputs - you can probably get an off the shelf board to do it, or make your own using a circuit similar to the one in this thread. Other options are a simple resistor divider to drop 12V to 3.3V, or something like a 4049 hex inverter powered from the Pi's 3.3V supply, but the optos provide most protection plus galvanic isolation, and are easily replaced if you blow the LED through overvoltage or just using the wrong resistor.

do you think an off-the-shelf 12v to 3.3v buck converter like I linked would be sufficient? Looks like it has a couple caps in it from the pics.

 

[somebodyelse]

do you think an off-the-shelf 12v to 3.3v buck converter like I linked would be sufficient? Looks like it has a couple caps in it from the pics.

That's what you'd use to power a 3.3V device from a 12V supply, not what you'd use to condition a 12V signal for a 3.3V logic input. I was expecting there to be a bunch of suitable boards on ebay, amazon etc. sold for Pi or Arduino use but they don't seem to be that common. Do you need something off the shelf, or are you ok with veroboard and soldering?

 

[win]

That's what you'd use to power a 3.3V device from a 12V supply, not what you'd use to condition a 12V signal for a 3.3V logic input. I was expecting there to be a bunch of suitable boards on ebay, amazon etc. sold for Pi or Arduino use but they don't seem to be that common. Do you need something off the shelf, or are you ok with veroboard and soldering?

Prefer off the shelf if at all possible. I can DIY a bit but am out of my comfort zone when it comes to electronics and soldering.

I did realize that the intended use case for that buck converter is for a power supply, but wouldn't it still work for this?