Instead of using the trigger, the tv or avr would act as control and the power strip would power up the pre-amp.
That’s only one small part of the required bevahior and would not work in this case regardless because:
A. The McIntosh C75 has a soft power on. (When power is provided at the mains, the C75 does not enter an “active” state, merely an IDLE one. It requires an additional activation of its power button (via the remote or the front face) to turn “ON”.
B. The McIntosh C75 does not accept HDMI nor understand CEC signals, so neither the TV nor the AVR can “control” it apart from the AVR’s ability to send a 12v trigger signal when it powers up / while it is active.
The 12v trigger is essential because it also causes several necessary state transitions:
1. If the pre is in the OFF / IDLE state, the trigger turns it ON
2. If the pre is ON, the trigger switches to the user-specified PASSTHRU input and sets the volume to 100% (the assumption is that attenuation is handled by the source).
3. If the trigger voltage is removed, the pre returns to its previous power state (either OFF, or ON), previous input, and previous volume level.
The net effect is as I described earlier: It “just works” for my wife to sit down, tap the Apple TV remote’s “TV”/“Home” button and have the AVR power up, subsequently use the trigger to power up the Pre, and switch the Pre’s input to the PASSTHRU.
(And this also causes the Pre to send additional triggers to each amplifier, but that’s out of the scope of my concern).
I hope this helps add any missing context to why a simple power switch is insufficient.