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John Atkinson's of Stereophile Talks About Measurements

dshreter

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As I said, you can't remove the room totally. As close to neutral as possible is what I want but you can't EQ the room away. There's no room in headphones right? I am aware of the nature of room dynamics.
What would you consider to be neutral in terms of direct vs reflected sound? Given the option would you treat your walls to maximize direct energy vs reflected? Or is there a certain amount of reflected sound you consider neutral?

And for the in-room response, what is your target frequency response that you consider as neutral as possible? Are you after flat response or some other target curve?
 

DuxServit

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Your ASR purist's perspective is clearly understood and appreciated, but to the point there are many test-reviews posted here that state something sounds good in spite of poor measurements. If a user is purely subjectively delighted to listen to his filthy hardware and states it, it becomes a dilemma because that great sound flies in the face of empirical logic. Then it can easily become something for argument. It's an obvious issue that will exist as long as there are poor measurements recorded in ASR. We have good folks here who develop conflicts with the great sound they hear versus data showing it's inferior. What if something measures great and subjectively sounds inferior to something that measures terribly? What about those guys who (apparently wrongfully) prefer sound filled with hideous harmonic distortion? Whose opinion matters?
.

I follow ASR because it’s reported measurements represents a kind of reference point against what I call “abuse of subjectivity”. Yes, audio sales people know very well that sound-tastes are subjective, so they come-up with various sales approaches to convince the buyer that it ”sounds good” (special listening rooms; “voicings”; invitations to new gear listening events; expensive cables, etc).

At the very least, now I can point friends and colleagues to ASR to narrow down their choices of purchase. No need for them to visit high-end audio shows or shops (and be prey to audio sales experts). They can choose from the ASR recommended list — which also has gear that subjectively sound good.
 

Sgt. Ear Ache

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What would you consider to be neutral in terms of direct vs reflected sound? Given the option would you treat your walls to maximize direct energy vs reflected? Or is there a certain amount of reflected sound you consider neutral?

And for the in-room response, what is your target frequency response that you consider as neutral as possible? Are you after flat response or some other target curve?

I'm after neutral at my listening position. I don't do any special room treatment. Just in a normal furnished living room. Carpet on the floor. curtains on the window. Some stuff on the walls. I don't have a target curve. If I blast some pink noise from my system and measure the sound at my ears I want it to look like what I know a pink noise spectrum looks like. Nice gentle downward slope from LF to HF. If there's a big bulge or valley I try and EQ a bit. But there's no perfection. and if I lean back so my ears are close to the wall, yup I hear the bass get a bit boomier. But, the primary point I'm making is that I want to know that the sound is not colored by my system. If it's colored by the room, so be it. But two wrongs don't make a right.
 

Sgt. Ear Ache

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All that said, if someone is not used to hearing their favorite recordings reproduced with a flat/even frequency response (as just one example of something that can be measured), that person may certainly feel that "measures well" means "sounds bad." It must take some getting used to, if you are accustomed to decades of hearing a favorite album with bass bumps and suckouts or peaks at various frequencies, to suddenly hear it without those anomalies.

Very much so.
 

restorer-john

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At the very least, now I can point friends and colleagues to ASR to narrow down their choices of purchase. No need for them to visit high-end audio shows or shops (and be prey to audio sales experts). They can choose from the ASR recommended list — which also has gear that subjectively sound good.

With respect, not encouraging people to visit shows or stores is just ridiculous. People need to hear systems and components of all types, prices and pedigrees to be able to make decisions on what they need and want from their investment. ASR in no way tells people how gear sounds to them.

Reading a few people's skewed and heavily polarized reviews on ASR is only going to serve to confuse without the balance of hearing gear. ASR reviews fall into two categories. When things test well, people laud the product. When something doesn't test well, it's a pile on. Not much in between. Not much middle ground at all to be honest.

When I was selling HiFi, it was the middle of the range where the most business was.
 
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MRC01

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You have to realize musicians don't know how they sound to you. They are up close and in touch with the instrument. They've no idea, and no reference for what it sounds like to a listener 15 feet away. They only hear it that way when they listen to other musicians. One of the most obvious is violin players. Do you think they are the authority on what a violin should sound like? They hear it under their chin and one ear very close to string and bow.
That is so true. I play flute in a chamber group and the violin sitting next to me has a lot of "zing" to the sound, nothing like what it sounds from the audience or on a stereo, unless you crank up the treble a lot (which some recordings do!). Same with the cello and other instruments. Especially so with my own flute since the sound I hear is resonating in my own throat and skull. It's like what your own voice sounds like to you when speaking, compared a high quality recording of it.

Several years ago when I got a new flute, when trying different ones, I picked one that had more edge and zing to its tone than I like because I realized that the flutes having a softer, rounder tone actually sound muted and dead from a few feet away. What sounds to me while playing as too edgy or zingy, sounds softer and rounded just a few feet away. Or, as a friend who was with me said, "If you want be heard, get that one!".

I hear this timbral difference in recordings all the time. You can use it to tell how closely it was miced. And recordings aren't always consistent. Often, some instruments are miced closer than others. Concertos are one of the worst offenders here.
 

Blumlein 88

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snip....
Then there's the matter of room curve. The objectively flat speaker if placed close to a wall will have more bass, away from the well less bass. How much is the right amount if there's not a known reference for target in room response? Flat is not considered a desirable goal, and targets are only loosely defined.
You have to remember the objectively flat speaker results in an in room measurement tilt downward due to artifacts of in room measurement. Don't get confused by that. The downward tilt is the amount you get with flat so indeed flat is actually the desired goal.
 
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LTig

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With budget gear I think there is a sweet spot below which good audio is hard to achieve. For me in the European market that begins with a Yamaha AS501 that costs about 350 euro, has multiple inputs including digital ones, and delivers almost 100 watt rms per channel at 8 Ohm. That is good enough for anything other than very inefficient speakers in large rooms. At the lower end of what makes sense with this amplifier, a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 220s would work pretty well in small to medium sized rooms. In the Netherlands they are now selling for 180 euro a set (and the smaller Diamond 210s for an even lower 120 euro). Add a Chromecast Audio (by now you will have to search a bit) and you have a really enjoyable system. I am afraid anything cheaper than about this is not really worth spending money on. Spend more on speakers, and you will get rather better sound, of course.
A pair of JBL 308 with stands and a cable (1 x stereo TRS 3.5mm to 2 x XLR) to connect them to the smart phone most people have anyway will probably sound better than your recommendation.
 

dshreter

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I'm after neutral at my listening position. I don't do any special room treatment. Just in a normal furnished living room. Carpet on the floor. curtains on the window. Some stuff on the walls. I don't have a target curve. If I blast some pink noise from my system and measure the sound at my ears I want it to look like what I know a pink noise spectrum looks like. Nice gentle downward slope from LF to HF. If there's a big bulge or valley I try and EQ a bit. But there's no perfection. and if I lean back so my ears are close to the wall, yup I hear the bass get a bit boomier. But, the primary point I'm making is that I want to know that the sound is not colored by my system. If it's colored by the room, so be it. But two wrongs don't make a right.
I think your approach is sound, and I'm in no way suggesting you're going about things "wrong" or anything like that. What I'm trying my best to point out is that within this approach that still leaves room for subjective decision making. The gentle downward slope could be more gentle or less gentle, and that's a subjective preference of what that target curve ought to be. Carpet on the floors and some stuff on the walls too - how much is the right amount of absorption is also a subjective preference. Those elements have a substantial impact on how a system sounds or flipped around which speakers would perform to your preferences inside of that room.
 

dshreter

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You have to remember the objectively flat speaker results in an in room downward tilt due to artifacts of in room measurement. Don't get confused by that. The downward tilt is the amount you get with flat so indeed flat is actually the desired goal.
What do you mean it's an artifact of in room measurement? Isn't the actual in room response that of a downward sloping frequency response? If so, that's not an artifact, that's the room transfer function working on the speakers. And when placing the objectively flat speakers in the room, how closely they are placed to the wall will change how flat or steep that tilt is, so a judgment call must be made.
 

Snarfie

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All that said, if someone is not used to hearing their favorite recordings reproduced with a flat/even frequency response (as just one example of something that can be measured), that person may certainly feel that "measures well" means "sounds bad." It must take some getting used to, if you are accustomed to decades of hearing a favorite album with bass bumps and suckouts or peaks at various frequencies, to suddenly hear it without those anomalies.

This is exactly what happend too me i was addicted tot dominant mid & high frequencies till absorption pannels taking care of first reflections An room correction software made the whole think flat. The fatigue was suddenly gone it took me a 1/2 hour to get used tot the new found sound.
 

LTig

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If you can read between the lines there's often negative comments but they are hidden.

The ' review' is published with the consent of the manufacturer and or distributor, it's a team effort lol .

It's not a honest industry.
Yeah, it makes a lot of sense to check what is not written in a review.
 

Blumlein 88

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I think your approach is sound, and I'm in no way suggesting you're going about things "wrong" or anything like that. What I'm trying my best to point out is that within this approach that still leaves room for subjective decision making. The gentle downward slope could be more gentle or less gentle, and that's a subjective preference of what that target curve ought to be. Carpet on the floors and some stuff on the walls too - how much is the right amount of absorption is also a subjective preference. Those elements have a substantial impact on how a system sounds or flipped around which speakers would perform to your preferences inside of that room.
I've some experience with this. Been using and a friend or two have been using various room EQ devices for a decade. I sort of got adept at letting my friends tell me what they wish were different about the balance and subtly altering target curves to improve their satisfaction. The basic target curve seems good, but a slightly great or lesser tilt, and tiny bubble or trough in the curve hear or there was able to dial in a bit of personal taste or preference. I think that is a reasonable thing to do rather than slavishly stick to the curve. But the curve is a real reference and a point of departure not something you just throw out. Also, the speakers I've done this to wouldn't score that well on the Harman criteria nevertheless hewing in the general vicinity of the target curves in room worked the best.
 

LTig

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Two thoughts:
[..]
2. Talk to professional musicians. Early in their journey the read the reviews and lusted after the best. If it was a guitar player, it was a specific guitar mated to a specific amp...and after they went to "Guitar Center or the like" and played that guitar and heard it through the amp, there is a good chance they bought neither....because the feel was wrong, or the look was wrong, or the sound was wrong and as a result they bought something else. My point is that professional musicians have their own views as to what plays "right" for them in a way that allows them to generate the sounds that seem "right" to them...in other words, it is personal and it is individual...just like most home audio.
And this is the problem. The musician looks for an instrument with a specific sound, and I agree that it is difficult to deduct this from measurements only. The audiophile however should strive for accuracy first, and this does not always correlate with better sound - it depends on the recording.

In earlier times I recommended people to use their most loved recordings for audition. My argument was that it may be better to have a equipment with a "forgiving" sound (less accuracy) if most recordings are bad.

This has changed however. Knowing how fast one can adapt to a different sound it makes no sense to buy sounded equipment. Just ensure that there are tone controls to fix whatever problems a recording has. I use an old Behringer Ultrafex Pro to get more bass, more highs or a wider soundstage if I'm in the mood. My preamp has tone controls as well.
 

Sgt. Ear Ache

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I think your approach is sound, and I'm in no way suggesting you're going about things "wrong" or anything like that. What I'm trying my best to point out is that within this approach that still leaves room for subjective decision making. The gentle downward slope could be more gentle or less gentle, and that's a subjective preference of what that target curve ought to be. Carpet on the floors and some stuff on the walls too - how much is the right amount of absorption is also a subjective preference. Those elements have a substantial impact on how a system sounds or flipped around which speakers would perform to your preferences inside of that room.

Ah, but that gets us back to the point I made earlier wrt how our ears adapt. What I'm suggesting is that people shouldn't necessarily give in to their subjective preference of any target curve. I think people should examine WHY they would prefer to have a slope that isn't neutral. I believe that most people, were they to live with and listen to good, neutral sound for even a fairly short time they would adapt and start to prefer that neutral signature. That's what I'm finding for myself. I just find that getting a neutral, un-colored sound just brings such amazing balance and clarity - as I said way back it's like every single element in the recording occupies it's own space and you can choose to focus on it and it's right there for you. I'm finding it quite amazing. Our ears learn to live with what we give them and before too long we believe that's what they want to hear. But I'm starting to believe that a neutral sound signature affords the best sound potential...I aim for that and my ears are adapting, and quickly learning to prefer that.
 

dshreter

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Ah, but that gets us back to the point I made earlier wrt how our ears adapt. What I'm suggesting is that people shouldn't necessarily give in to their subjective preference of any target curve. I think people should examine WHY they would prefer to have a slope that isn't neutral. I believe that most people, were they to live with and listen to good, neutral sound for even a fairly short time they would adapt and start to prefer that neutral signature. That's what I'm finding for myself. I just find that getting a neutral, un-colored sound just brings such amazing balance and clarity - as I said way back it's like every single element in the recording occupies it's own space and you can choose to focus on it and it's right there for you. I'm finding it quite amazing. Our ears learn to live with what we give them and before too long we believe that's what they want to hear. But I'm starting to believe that a neutral sound signature affords the best sound potential...I aim for that and my ears are adapting, and quickly learning to prefer that.
No, I'm afraid that you're missing my point. Flat in-room response is not considered neutral, yet there isn't a specific definition of what should be considered neutral. If by neutral you mean flat in-room response, then say so. If you have a different in room response that you are defining as neutral then specify that. Otherwise I think we'll continue to debate in circles.

Amir's article on Target Room Response has a great explanation of this so I won't attempt to replicate it. In his article he suggests that tilting down 5 dB from 100 Hz to 20 KHz is a good starting point, and I agree. But make no mistake, this isn't a reference for neutral room response, instead it is based on Harman's knowledge of listener preference. Which brings us full circle that target response in room is ultimately a matter of preference as there is no universally established reference for what constitutes neutral.

If you want to take the position that listeners should adjust to neutral, un-colored sound, then you have to be able to define what that would be. I've laid out multiple aspects that I believe aren't yet well defined (neutral dispersion, neutral reflection, neutral room response), and these all significantly impact the sound of a system. Until they are defined, you can make your choice of wide or narrow dispersion, heavy or light absorption, heavy or light diffusion, and a steep or flat in room frequency response, and it's not for anyone to say which is more neutral of the bunch.
 

Sgt. Ear Ache

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I did define it. as close to a correct pink noise reading as I can get at my listening postition. Then you said "yes but what if that's not my preference." And here we are.
 

dshreter

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I did define it. as close to a correct pink noise reading as I can get at my listening postition. Then you said "yes but what if that's not my preference." And here we are.
That's not at all what I said. I've attempted to be very specific on what I believe to be the variables in playback that do not have a proper definition for neutrality, so we could have an earnest discussion about this.

What is a correct pink noise reading at your listening position? Are you suggesting this should be flat across the frequency spectrum? Or suggesting this should be a specific tilted response?
 

Blumlein 88

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In room Olive suggests a 1 db/octave slope so that from 20 hz to 20 khz you get 10 db drop. The old B&K curve suggested flat to 200 hz and 6db down from there to 20 khz. Which works out to about .9 db/octave.

In doing Room EQ, off of measurements of in room response, the 6 db between 200 hz and 20 khz is pretty reliable as sounding right. Whether to stay flat below 200hz, or have 3 db of up tilt or something in between seems to vary from room to room. Some uptilt in the low end works if you've gotten a smooth response down there. If it is has peaks, it will sound like too much and keeping it flat below 200 hz works out better in my experience.
 

MRC01

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All this talk about house curves and preferences sounds subjective. But when it comes to acoustic music, we can apply a reference guideline. What do most concert halls do to the sound? What is the spectrum (frequency vs. energy) of a voice or musical instrument: (A) close miced, (B) taken from the 1st row of seats, (C) taken from the 10th row?

Remember that the energy of a wave is essentially amplitude * frequency. So a sound of twice the frequency has twice the energy if its amplitude is the same. This also means that if a musical instrument emits equal energy at all frequencies (it doesn't, but it's still a useful example), the amplitude of its harmonics will taper by about 6 dB / octave. Most naturally occurring sounds (whether music or other noises) roughly follows this: whatever their fundamental is, amplitude drops as frequency increases above it.

I don't have the numbers but experience taught me the further away you get from the musicians, the FR tilts more downward. A flat (no downward tilt) in-room response sounds bright and edgy, like sitting next to the musicians on stage. Some recordings are bright, some are dull. Some are close-miced, some not. So I experiment and go with a "house curve" that strikes a balance making a variety of different well-made recordings all sound as natural as possible, meaning as close as possible to the real thing. I find that something like 1 dB / octave from 30 Hz to 20 kHz (a little more or less, depending on the room and your taste) sounds well balanced like good house seats with most recordings.
 
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