Is it safe to use contact cleaner on audio electronics?

[ShiZo]

Is it safe to use contact cleaner on audio electronics? I have a mechanical switch that I used contact cleaner on the inside of an old audio device. I let it dry for 12 hours. How safe is this stuff? How long does it take to evaporate off the device in your experience?

 

[majingotan]

I use the Deoxit products off of my DACs, preamps and even MMCX connectors for my CA Andromeda IEM and never had issues with it. Get the quick dry version (usually has the Honeywell Solstice PF in the ingredient label) so you can use it after 2 minutes of application.

 

[ShiZo]

I used the CRC QD contact cleaning a mechanical switch button that was stuck and not smoothly actuating. I did get it on some of the PCB though.

 

[Shadrach]

Is it safe to use contact cleaner on audio electronics? I have a mechanical switch that I used contact cleaner on the inside of an old audio device. I let it dry for 12 hours. How safe is this stuff? How long does it take to evaporate off the device in your experience?

Unless you've applied so much that it shorts the component out it shouldn't matter if it's wet or dry. Current will still flow.

 

[Doodski]

Is it safe to use contact cleaner on audio electronics? I have a mechanical switch that I used contact cleaner on the inside of an old audio device. I let it dry for 12 hours. How safe is this stuff? How long does it take to evaporate off the device in your experience?

Yes it's safe but it can make a mess if you use too much especially when it forms a slurry when mixed with the dust. I would avoid NuTrol because it does not leave a long lasting lubricant and the potentiometer or switch will become stiff after a year or two.

 

[ShiZo]

I did apply some lubricant to the switch after that. Some stuff that's supposed to be plastic and electrically safe.

 

[RayDunzl]

This brand was approved/specified/used at work for various situations, where some folks could get real picky about what you just did to their expensive machine:

https://www.chemtronics.com/

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=chemtronics

 

[vavan]

somewhat off-topic but I wonder how detrimental white dust produced by ultrasonic humidifiers (when using non demineralized water) is for electronics with its contacts, speakers and their drivers

 

[gfx_1]

somewhat off-topic but I wonder how detrimental white dust produced by ultrasonic humidifiers (when using non demineralized water) is for electronics with its contacts, speakers and their drivers

White dust is all the stuff / residue in the water that could be filtered out by reversed osmosis or demineralised (more old fashioned).
Mainly calcium and some traces of salts.

 

[BillG]

How long does it take to evaporate off the device in your experience?

I use plain old rubbing alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) for such purposes, and have for many years now. It's inexpensive, an effective solvent, and evaporates within minutes.

 

[Sal1950]

Wurth Contact OL has been my favorite for many years. I've used it for all contact cleaning and protection on everything from electronic pots and switches to in the shop for auto and motorcycle needs. It's done an excellent job of cleaning these items while never doing anything negative to components in the short or long term. It's all I keep next to my toolbox and workbench.
https://www.wurthusa.com/Chemical-P...e/Electronics/Contact-Cleaner-OL/p/0890101101

https://www.ebay.com/i/293540573792...MIl_bms6ng6QIVSrLICh2h9AS9EAQYAyABEgLWS_D_BwE

 

[vavan]

White dust is all the stuff

right and the question was how detrimental it is

 

[JungleXray]

I also used CRC QD contact cleaner, works for me. Deoxit is the one most people seem to recommend, its marketed for audio stuff. My guess is the formulas are pretty similar.

But yes it is safe to use. Just a little spray and will evaporate in seconds.

Isopropyl alcohol works too but i find it harder to apply.

 

[Plcamp]

Having dissembled several old products needing controls cleaning, I would say all these “spray in cleaners” are convenient but suboptimal shortcuts to what really needs to happen. It sucks, but those controls need to be either replaced with new, or themselves dissembled, cleaned, lubricated and reassembled. If you have done that, you will know why I say it.

As one example, a lever switch inside an old Luxman I restored used up both sides of four q-tip like cleaner sticks before it was back to new condition. Not everything is that bad of course, but don’t think it’s back to new from a spray.

 

[Speedskater]

Not all contact cleaners are safe on all controls. Some will attack the plastic parts of the control. I learned that lesson the hard way a long time ago.

 

[Racheski]

I use this - it's Mom approved and comes in a gigantic bottle with a large microfiber cloth. No alcohol, ammonia, or phosphates

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01054S5FM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[mhardy6647]

There are nigh-on useless contact cleaners and excellent ones. Some of (at least) the latter, as pointed out already, may cause damage -- either to controls containing certain plastics, especially plastics coated with conductive material, or sometimes just by dissolving out the lubricants that give a pot or slider that nice smooth feeling when operated.

A certain amount of caution is indicated.

Generally, the CAIG products are good -- but -- all generalizations are false, including this one so be cautious. Some pots will be damaged by DeOxit, so one hesitates to give a blanket recommendation (even though one likes DeOxit a lot).

Some folks like the electronic contact cleaner sprays that have less in the way of additives (CRC makes one that gets good press, e.g.) -- but it probably isn't great for really grungy switches and pots.