Killingbeans
Major Contributor
I wonder if the direction of the grain matters
And don't forget to coat them with special audiophile varnish
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Internal speaker wires
- Thread starter rokr
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And don't forget to coat them with special audiophile varnish
TurtlePaul
Addicted to Fun and Learning
Do you varnish before or after the cryo treatment?And don't forget to coat them with special audiophile varnish
Killingbeans
Major Contributor
Depends on whether you use quantum varnish, or just the cheap stuff made from dodo feathers dissolved in the tears of northern white rhinos.
mhardy6647
Grand Contributor
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quantum varnish -- I'm likin' it!
Look at the cables as a filter that changes the sound in some cases very slightly.
I rekommend using a good 1,5 mm multistranded copper cable ( OFC ) inside the speaker and also outside. Solder all connections inside the speaker , and use terminals that are metal made in one piece , without any extra bolts.
Twin the cable inside the speaker or keep it tightly together + and - .
I rekommend using Deltron banana plugs , they are made in one metal piece , not superexpensive and they keep the contact pressure intact .
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Killingbeans
Major Contributor
Although it's important to underline that those cases are the fringe kind. As in "audiophile" cables with ridiculous amounts of resistance, capacitance and inductance.
Yeah, I can't afford fancy filter cables. I just use wire.
WIthout those wooden blocks the whole image just falls apart, and my wife stays in the kitchen, muttering. It’s like a veil is dropped.Yup.
And exactly as irrelevant, too.
As long as wire conducts electricity and doesn't heat up appreciably while doing so -- it's probably completely fit for purpose.
Just like the wiring inside a hifi component, or in the AC wiring in a domicile, as compared to the one meter long power cord in between.
source: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...dio-fest-report-continued.45908/#post-1636720
Yes, on a philosophical point, it would make sence to have the same cable inside the cabinet as between the amplifier and speakers. The differences are really small though - its probably much more important with good connections and that you solder your internal cables to the terminals and drivers.
Contact distortion with oxidized connections during long time is very real and it can be audible.
Killingbeans
Major Contributor
If you go by the layman's logic of cables having an inherent "quality" that's proportional to its mass and volume, then yes.
I imagine that cables being only just thick enough to have no audible impact will easily make the mind anxious about bottlenecks, even though they don't exist.
Absolutely. I have a feeling that a lot (if not most) of the time when people needlessly "upgrade" components and get an actual improvement in sound, they simply reflowed a bad solder joint or removed oxidation on a connector unknowingly.
That’s why I like the arc welded connectors on Blue Jeans cables. Ridiculous overkill, but piece of mind.
Killingbeans
Major Contributor
Ultrasonically welded, not arc
I was really keen on trying some variant of cold welding in cable production at some point, but then I heard rumors about the joints being brittle and failing under mechanical stress. Might be a duck though. I'd have to do my own stress testing if I ever get around to actually producing cables.
I was really keen on trying some variant of cold welding in cable production at some point, but then I heard rumors about the joints being brittle and failing under mechanical stress. Might be a duck though. I'd have to do my own stress testing if I ever get around to actually producing cables.
Imagine the sonic possibilities of stacking two or more amplifier "foundations", one on top of the other! Dubba on da bump!
Is that what the goofy jack pads are called?
Don't know what jack pads are.
The amps are on stands of some sort.
Got it. So jack pad is another name for amplifier foundation, or platform.
Those must be powerful audio woo-woo. I've never seen that before.
In the equivalent circuit for a loudspeaker cable, the series resistance and inductance (see red frame) are the most important factors.
It helps to assess the effects of internal wiring of loudspeakers if you roughly estimate wire resistance and inductive reactance.
In my projects I use stranded copper wire with 1.5mm² cross-section, which corresponds to about 16-15 AWG.
Wire resistance
The copper wire with 1.5mm² cross-section has a resistance of about 13 ohm/km. So the resistance for a two-core speaker cable, with 1m length from tweeter to binding post is: 13 / 1000 * 2 = 0.026 Ohm.
The impedance of a typical tweeter is usually between 4-6 ohms. So the additional wire resistance of the internal speaker wiring does not matter.
Inductive reactance
At high frequencies, the inductive resistance of the wires running in parallel in the speaker cable has an effect.
For a simple 1.5mm² cable, the distance between the wires is about 4mm and the wire radius is about 0.69mm.
Calculation of inductance between the parallel running wires with opposite current flow is:
H = (μ0 * l / π) * (0.5 + ln((d - R) / R))
Where:
H the induction between the conductors,
μ0 the magnetic field constant (4π × 10^(-7) T-m/A),
l is the length of the parallel conductors
d the distance between the conductors,
R the radius of the conductors.
For our example, we get H = (µ0*1/π) * (0.5 + ln((0.004-0.00069)/0.00069)) = (µ0*1/π) * 2.07 = 0.83 µH
The inductive reactance (XL) of an inductor at frequency f can be calculated using the following formula:
XL = 2πfL
Where:
XL is the inductive reactance,
f is the frequency,
L is the inductance.
So for our example of a 1m long speaker cable with 1.5mm² cross section, at 20 kHz we get:
XL = 2π*20000*0.83*10e-6 = 0.1 Ohm
So the inductive reactance at 20 kHz is four times as large as the wire resistance. But even this has in practice no effect on the frequency response of the tweeter or loudspeaker.
We can simulate the effects on the frequency response of a 6 Ohm tweeter. With series impedance of 26 mOhm and the series inductance of 0.82µH.
The effects on the FR are less than 0.1 dB at 20 kHz and reach the simulation limits of VCAD, so they are completely inaudible. Don't let "audiophiles" or sales man mislead you
I'm not an electronics expert, so I wouldn't bet my life on it all being flawless
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Thanks ctrl for this teaching.
As a matter of fact, in my DIY building with the Markaudio chn110 I use 1,5 mm copper cable both inside the speaker and also between the speaker and the amplifier. 1.5 mm is about the right size where you still can solder the wire to the drivers and connectors without any problems.
As I wrote earlier, the weakest point on an electrical view is probably the connectors - I can recommend soldering, and the solid banana connectors from Deltron and stäubli . You drill two holes in the loudspeakercabinet, put some wooden glue around the contacts and use a hammer. Not expensive and a very good connection.
Edit: I wouldnt buy ( to sleep good at night ) ultra cheap cables where they mix aluminium wires with copper
As a matter of fact, in my DIY building with the Markaudio chn110 I use 1,5 mm copper cable both inside the speaker and also between the speaker and the amplifier. 1.5 mm is about the right size where you still can solder the wire to the drivers and connectors without any problems.
As I wrote earlier, the weakest point on an electrical view is probably the connectors - I can recommend soldering, and the solid banana connectors from Deltron and stäubli . You drill two holes in the loudspeakercabinet, put some wooden glue around the contacts and use a hammer. Not expensive and a very good connection.
Edit: I wouldnt buy ( to sleep good at night ) ultra cheap cables where they mix aluminium wires with copper
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