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Fosi Audio BT20A Pro Amplifier Review

Rate this stereo amplifier

  • 1. Poor (headless panther)

    Votes: 3 1.0%
  • 2. Not terrible (postman panther)

    Votes: 34 11.0%
  • 3. Fine (happy panther)

    Votes: 182 58.9%
  • 4. Great (golfing panther)

    Votes: 90 29.1%

  • Total voters
    309
Did somebody swap the grey volume knob with a copper tinted one? I have the replacement ready, but as strong as I pull (within some "safe" limit) I am not able to remove the original one. Is it glued, maybe? Anybody can help from experience? Thank you!
 
Did somebody swap the grey volume knob with a copper tinted one? I have the replacement ready, but as strong as I pull (within some "safe" limit) I am not able to remove the original one. Is it glued, maybe? Anybody can help from experience? Thank you!
First things first. Is there a set screw in the knob holding it to the shaft? Can you get a V shaped tool(s) in there to pry the knob out/off with? Can you show a exact image of what you see?
 
First things first. Is there a set screw in the knob holding it to the shaft? Can you get a V shaped tool(s) in there to pry the knob out/off with? Can you show a exact image of what you see?
Unfortunately no set screw and the knob is recessed in the amplifier body
IMG_4860.jpg

IMG_4862.jpg
 
Unfortunately no set screw and the knob is recessed in the amplifier body
View attachment 289672
View attachment 289673
Splined teeth on the shaft. From where I'm looking at it appears it's a press fit but adhesive could have been applied @ assembly. What's your gut feeling on using two blade type screwdrivers and prying on that plastic and anodized metal(s). I would not. LoL> It's a gong show waiting to happen. I leave it up to you to determine if you wanna go for the gustO.
 
Splined teeth on the shaft. From where I'm looking at it appears it's a press fit but adhesive could have been applied @ assembly. What's your gut feeling on using two blade type screwdrivers and prying on that plastic and anodized metal(s). I would not. LoL> It's a gong show waiting to happen. I leave it up to you to determine if you wanna go for the gustO.
The knob might be glued, I quit. Breaking the amp for a knob color change does not seem a wise move.
 
The knob might be glued, I quit. Breaking the amp for a knob color change does not seem a wise move.
They are very seldom glued on splines like this. Typically they are pressed on with no force to speak of. The following would be the process. I know it sounds a bit wrong but it should only be applicable for the context of knob-pulling.

I'd gradually start pulling harder and harder (on my knob) while wiggling (my knob) a bit. Hopefully it's a happy ending and it eventually gets loose. If it doesn't I'd just leave it be.
 
I say pull it and pull it good. No shame in using both hands either.
Let it rip, but some backbone into it, don't forget to grunt.
 
I say pull it and pull it good. No shame in using both hands either.
Let it rip, but some backbone into it, don't forget to grunt.
But you sometimes can get too violent. Remember the lyrics from this old banger;

"Don't go breaking my knob
I couldn't if I tried
Honey if I get restless
Baby you're not that kind

Don't go breaking my knob
You take the weight off of me
Honey when you knock on my door

Ooh, I gave you my key
Woo hoo
Nobody knows it
When I was down
I was your clown
Woo hoo
Nobody knows it.."
 
if you still want to remove the knob; you can insert strong soft thread around the knob pushing it in with pointed forcep in the tiny gap as shown in the picture. Two on opposing side. (somewhat like gallow/harness) then tie the two ends and pull. If possible open the amp and hold the potentiometer soldered to the pcb firmly*. Usually chinese amps have metals knurled shaft and plastic knobs. This looks like metal and galling may have occured making it difficult to removing.

thread .jpg


* a link to video of teardown. LINK

You will be the best judge how much force to safely apply and if it is worth the risk.
regards
 
Unfortunately no set screw and the knob is recessed in the amplifier body
View attachment 289672
View attachment 289673
@Hiten @Holdt

Sorry for not having shared a demonstrative video on swapping the volume knob earlier.

I'd like to share a simpler way to pull out the knob. Just use a piece of polishing cloth like this to wrap the knob and pull it out!
1685772107504.png


You can search for the words "apple polishing cloth" on Amazon and find it.;)
 
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@Hiten @Holdt

Sorry for not having shared a demonstrative video on swapping the volume knob earlier.

I'd like to share a simpler way to pull out the knob. Just use a piece of polishing cloth like this to wrap the knob and pull it out!
View attachment 289888

You can search for the words "apple polishing cloth" on Amazon and find it.;)
Thanks. In due time, you will make every customer a knob-pulling expert.
 
Anyone able to hear a very faint flapping noise coming from the tweeter when their BT20A Pro is idling, when the volume knob is set between 12 o'clock to max?
Yes, Fosi audio support asked me to try different power supplies, RCA cables, turning wi-fi off, using different speakers. I did all of this and the flapping is still there. Fosi asked asked me to send the circuit board back for testing. Its in transit at the moment I will let you know what they say after testing.
 
First of all, thanks amirm for the review!

Finally, I've got my blue BT20A Pro with the orange knob 45 days after purchase.
Overall, I like it very much!

Unfortunately, my device gets pretty hot. Even if I place the BT20 elevated, with free airflow around, the metal body gets very warm.
I've measured 43 °C/109,4 °F on the top of the case!
If I place it in my normal living room shelf it gets unbearable hot. I cannot stack it there, where my WiiM Pro and SMSL D-6 are staying at cool temperatures.

The crazy thing about this is that the device gets this hot only by turning it on. When playing music, it gets barely hotter than that. After shutting the device off, the case gets back to normal levels.
I have the version with the 48V power supply. The power supply itself stays cool.

Does anybody else get these temperatures?
@Fosi Audio is my device malfunctioning?

For reference: none of my other Class D Amps/DACs gets noticeably above room temperature.
 
First of all, thanks amirm for the review!

Finally, I've got my blue BT20A Pro with the orange knob 45 days after purchase.
Overall, I like it very much!

Unfortunately, my device gets pretty hot. Even if I place the BT20 elevated, with free airflow around, the metal body gets very warm.
I've measured 43 °C/109,4 °F on the top of the case!
If I place it in my normal living room shelf it gets unbearable hot. I cannot stack it there, where my WiiM Pro and SMSL D-6 are staying at cool temperatures.

The crazy thing about this is that the device gets this hot only by turning it on. When playing music, it gets barely hotter than that. After shutting the device off, the case gets back to normal levels.
I have the version with the 48V power supply. The power supply itself stays cool.

Does anybody else get these temperatures?
@Fosi Audio is my device malfunctioning?

For reference: none of my other Class D Amps/DACs gets noticeably above room temperature.
I've had the BT20A pro, 48V power supply for about 5 days, and I too have noticed that the amp is warm to the touch... It doesn't get unbearably hot though.
Even at idle, the metal enclosure is warm to the touch.
Playing music through a pair of KEF Q350 and running a REL Subwoofer via the Pre-Out.
The amp doesn't get warmer while playing music... just maintains the warm temp... same as when idle.

That aside, I really enjoy listening to music via this amp. I bought this after my Cambridge Audio AXR85 developed a problem.The AX85 sounds boring compared to the BT20APro. The BT20A Pro has super clean vocals, and the instruments really come alive. I love it.

Its my second Fosi amp (I also have a Fosi Audio TDA7498E)
 

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I've had the BT20A pro, 48V power supply for about 5 days, and I too have noticed that the amp is warm to the touch... It doesn't get unbearably hot though.
Even at idle, the metal enclosure is warm to the touch.
Playing music through a pair of KEF Q350 and running a REL Subwoofer via the Pre-Out.
The amp doesn't get warmer while playing music... just maintains the warm temp... same as when idle.

That aside, I really enjoy listening to music via this amp. I bought this after my Cambridge Audio AXR85 developed a problem.The AX85 sounds boring compared to the BT20APro. The BT20A Pro has super clean vocals, and the instruments really come alive. I love it.

Its my second Fosi amp (I also have a Fosi Audio TDA7498E)
32V here, just lukewarm (much cooler than a typical AB amp with a similar power rating). At idle, power consumption around 4 watts. Playing music at reasonable volume, ca. 5 watts. I suspect it runs much cooler with the 32V PSU.
 
Unfortunately, my device gets pretty hot. Even if I place the BT20 elevated, with free airflow around, the metal body gets very warm.
I've measured 43 °C/109,4 °F on the top of the case!
If I place it in my normal living room shelf it gets unbearable hot. I cannot stack it there, where my WiiM Pro and SMSL D-6 are staying at cool temperatures.
That's actually not hot for the hardware! For context, the maximum Junction temperature of the TPA3255 chip used in this amp is 150 °C according to its spec sheet. The recommended Junction temperature is 125 °C. The ambient heatsink temperature used in various tests in the spec sheet is 85 °C. And the chip has temperature self-protection features. Not that we know the temperature of the stuff in the box, but you get the drift.

This goes to show why common amplifiers have huge cases with huge heatsinks and lots of airflow -- they do use a lot of power, and they do need some cooling! But these modern little amps are very efficient, and they're probably getting cooled "well enough" by their aluminum boxes because so many of these little things continue to be made.

For reference: none of my other Class D Amps/DACs gets noticeably above room temperature.
Unfortunately that doesn't mean anything because it's a GOOD thing for the case to get hot on the outside because it's acting as a heatsink. A worse product could seem cooler but actually have a higher temperature inside cooking the components.
 
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