lactoseadept
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- Jan 9, 2023
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Hi guys, first post. As the thread title suggests, I'm exploring the sticky subject of headphone amplification "on top of" an existing audio interface. Hopefully someone can chime in or come up with a potential solution to my self-inflicted situation
To provide context, I had been corresponding with an audio engineer at Focusrite via email who basically confirmed to me that the headphone outputs on the 18i20 audio interface are best suited for headphones that are rated up to 200 ohms (math and explanation available upon request)
This led me to question whether I was experiencing the intended frequency response of my 300 ohm pair of headphones, the Sennheiser HD600. After all, I had been enthusiastically EQ'ing, and became quite certain that the bass roll-off on the HD600s led to a rather lackluster listening experience... but now I'm wondering whether my hardware is limited, beyond just volume.
Enter the opportunity to justify spending on a new piece of technology, my first dedicated headphone amplifier. But what about all the bits and bobs? How would I continue to use the platform I had grown so accustomed to (18i20) but eliminate insufficient voltage as a potential factor in the performance of my headphones?
My first thought, which I cast aside rather hastily, was connecting an amplifier via the line-outs of my audio interface—I have plenty of unused ones, and as long as the headphone outputs of the amplifier were capable of driving 300 ohm headphones optimally, I would be good. Or would I? Flashbacks of trying to repurpose old audio interfaces for pass-through widened my eyes and momentarily haunted me with the resulting distorted audio. Would the signal be perfectly transported? It became increasingly clear that buying an amplifier without knowing this sort of information or the potential result would be irresponsible...
What about digital signals, then? Presumably, a digital means of transport e.g. optical/SPDIF coaxial would theoretically mean less conversion (technically, the exact same amount, just using the new hardware instead of the audio interface) but at least a better signal to the amplifier? At this point, I then started to consider a DAC/amp combo to preserve audio fidelity...
I searched the market and found some affordable amplification units; some balanced, others unbalanced. Many with RCA, which stunned me—aren't they inferior? Why would a main headphone output be 3.5mm? Is 4.4mm really the upcoming standard? I was biased towards balanced 6.3mm, but then did some reading that effectively suggested that if it isn't XLR 4-pin, and the amp isn't "fully balanced", as was the catchphrase, my signal isn't balanced, and so I might be missing on that 0.1%+ gain in fidelity. Not if I'm spending hundreds of dollars, I won't!
I then strove to find a headphone DAC/amp with balanced output, preferably single 4-pin XLR, with the proper transducers, and then realised I am woefully out of my element. Did I even need a DAC? Would the existing DAC of the 18i20 be sufficient, or of higher quality than whatever I get? Should I just use 6.3mm between the audio interface and new amplifier, and have that new amplifier provide the right impedance to drive my headphones?
It is with these questions that I seek guidance, and audio science, from the learned users of this forum... how can I get the highest fidelity headphone experience, with a balanced ("fully"?!) amp implementation, presumably with XLR 4-pin (terminations of which I'd buy for recabling)—but then again, are the HD600s even designed for such a purpose, at this point? What would the optimal amplification setup be?!
Dazed and confused, and thankful for any insight,
AM
P.S. Please find attached the HD600 with aftermarket 6.3mm termination, Focusrite 18i20 back panel, and the closest thing I have to a preamp, a Rega Fono Mini A2D
P.P.S. I almost certainly have missed some thoughts or info, so if anything is (understandably) unclear, I would gladly revert. Thanks in advance!
P.P.P.S. If it isn't clear, I'm trying to find the perfect headphone amp, have as balanced a situation as I can, and use the right connections to preserve audio fidelity, all without hopefully breaking the bank. Oh, and understanding why/what would make a superior choice.
To provide context, I had been corresponding with an audio engineer at Focusrite via email who basically confirmed to me that the headphone outputs on the 18i20 audio interface are best suited for headphones that are rated up to 200 ohms (math and explanation available upon request)
This led me to question whether I was experiencing the intended frequency response of my 300 ohm pair of headphones, the Sennheiser HD600. After all, I had been enthusiastically EQ'ing, and became quite certain that the bass roll-off on the HD600s led to a rather lackluster listening experience... but now I'm wondering whether my hardware is limited, beyond just volume.
Enter the opportunity to justify spending on a new piece of technology, my first dedicated headphone amplifier. But what about all the bits and bobs? How would I continue to use the platform I had grown so accustomed to (18i20) but eliminate insufficient voltage as a potential factor in the performance of my headphones?
My first thought, which I cast aside rather hastily, was connecting an amplifier via the line-outs of my audio interface—I have plenty of unused ones, and as long as the headphone outputs of the amplifier were capable of driving 300 ohm headphones optimally, I would be good. Or would I? Flashbacks of trying to repurpose old audio interfaces for pass-through widened my eyes and momentarily haunted me with the resulting distorted audio. Would the signal be perfectly transported? It became increasingly clear that buying an amplifier without knowing this sort of information or the potential result would be irresponsible...
What about digital signals, then? Presumably, a digital means of transport e.g. optical/SPDIF coaxial would theoretically mean less conversion (technically, the exact same amount, just using the new hardware instead of the audio interface) but at least a better signal to the amplifier? At this point, I then started to consider a DAC/amp combo to preserve audio fidelity...
I searched the market and found some affordable amplification units; some balanced, others unbalanced. Many with RCA, which stunned me—aren't they inferior? Why would a main headphone output be 3.5mm? Is 4.4mm really the upcoming standard? I was biased towards balanced 6.3mm, but then did some reading that effectively suggested that if it isn't XLR 4-pin, and the amp isn't "fully balanced", as was the catchphrase, my signal isn't balanced, and so I might be missing on that 0.1%+ gain in fidelity. Not if I'm spending hundreds of dollars, I won't!
I then strove to find a headphone DAC/amp with balanced output, preferably single 4-pin XLR, with the proper transducers, and then realised I am woefully out of my element. Did I even need a DAC? Would the existing DAC of the 18i20 be sufficient, or of higher quality than whatever I get? Should I just use 6.3mm between the audio interface and new amplifier, and have that new amplifier provide the right impedance to drive my headphones?
It is with these questions that I seek guidance, and audio science, from the learned users of this forum... how can I get the highest fidelity headphone experience, with a balanced ("fully"?!) amp implementation, presumably with XLR 4-pin (terminations of which I'd buy for recabling)—but then again, are the HD600s even designed for such a purpose, at this point? What would the optimal amplification setup be?!
Dazed and confused, and thankful for any insight,
AM
P.S. Please find attached the HD600 with aftermarket 6.3mm termination, Focusrite 18i20 back panel, and the closest thing I have to a preamp, a Rega Fono Mini A2D
P.P.S. I almost certainly have missed some thoughts or info, so if anything is (understandably) unclear, I would gladly revert. Thanks in advance!
P.P.P.S. If it isn't clear, I'm trying to find the perfect headphone amp, have as balanced a situation as I can, and use the right connections to preserve audio fidelity, all without hopefully breaking the bank. Oh, and understanding why/what would make a superior choice.