Contact spray in red can?

[Argus]

I trying to recall the name of a contact spray in a red can I purchased back in the 80's that went by the name "Chromlin or similar ?" Was very expensive and claimed to improve contact resistance. If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd very much appreciate it. Thank you.

 

[Jim Taylor]

You wouldn't be talking about this, would you?

Jim

 

[Blumlein 88]

You also might look for CRC brand. They also have some in red or in green. QD I think is the plastics safe version.

 

[BillH]

As I recall, some of the products from that era, or slightly earlier, are no longer available due to phasing out of the chemical constituents.

 

[Daverz]

There's also Caig Deoxit:

Home - CAIG

Audio/Visual: Improve and protect the performance and reliability of Audio and Video Equipment; Components, TV’s, Monitors, Displays, Indoor/Outdoor Speaker ...

caig.com

 

[Blumlein 88]

I trying to recall the name of a contact spray in a red can I purchased back in the 80's that went by the name "Chromlin or similar ?" Was very expensive and claimed to improve contact resistance. If anyone can point me in the right direction I'd very much appreciate it. Thank you.

I bet your thinking of cramolin red. DeOxit is the environmentally approved replacement. Cramolin isn't allowed anymore.

The CRC I mentioned above is pretty good, cheap and widely available. Any Auto Zone, or Walmart or Lowes would have it. Where I worked it was used in damp and corrosive environments on instrumentation connectors where it worked very well.

This explains the issue over the years.

Sonic’s Caig Page

Sonic Purity’s page tracking the ever-changing names of great chemicals from Caig Laboratories.

www.siber-sonic.com

This is Caig who made the cramolin and now makes DeOxit. You can order DeOxit's various versions on Amazon.

DeoxIT D-Series page with shop - CAIG

DeoxIT® D-Series contact cleaner dissolves oxides and sulfides that form on metal surfaces. This restores the contact’s integrity and leaves a thin microscopic layer that protects the metal. Special additives improve conductivity and prevent dissolved oxides from re-attaching, keeping them in...

caig.com

 

[Chrispy]

Why would you want contact resistance?

 

[Jim Taylor]

... claimed to improve contact resistance

Why would you want contact resistance?

Lower = improve, as in cleaner.

Jim

 

[Chrispy]

Lower = improve, as in cleaner.

Jim

Yeah that's fine, was more going on OP's "improve contact resistance" statement.

 

[Blumlein 88]

Yeah that's fine, was more going on OP's "improve contact resistance" statement.

Oh for that you need ReOxit. A contact resistance enhancer liquid.

 

[mhardy6647]

Cramolin. Much intrigue from Cramolin to CAIG DeOxit.

 

[Robin L]

Yeah, it's DeOxit. I've got two different cans, one's for removing oxidization, there's also "Fader F5", more of a very light lubricant for faders and the like. Best to follow up the F5 formula with a little compressed air.

Here's some more info, with other Caig products:

DeoxIT D-Series page with shop - CAIG

DeoxIT® D-Series contact cleaner dissolves oxides and sulfides that form on metal surfaces. This restores the contact’s integrity and leaves a thin microscopic layer that protects the metal. Special additives improve conductivity and prevent dissolved oxides from re-attaching, keeping them in...

caig.com

 

[EJ3]

As I recall, some of the products from that era, or slightly earlier, are no longer available due to phasing out of the chemical constituents.

I thought that they were phased out because the worked very well. The manufacturers don't want you fixing stuff, they want you to add to the trash and buy new stuff.

 

[OldHvyMec]

I'm sure he meant to say "reduce contact resistance."

Second it is a "contact enhancer". Period!

All of the ones I've seen and used were graphite based contact enhancers.

A cleaner is another thing. Its for all the plugs that use a dielectric grease with enviro sealing plugs. Your suppose to clean the plug on both sides add new
grease and plug them back in. They actually have seal kit for the plug too.

The graphene enhancers technically can't work because the way graphene work's. Its only molecules thick between surfaces. It's not how thick it is how thin
it is.

I use graphite 3000 and WD40, never failed me yet. I can make a quart of the shit for 50 bucks and it last for 50 years. You can use never-seize and graphite,
for a great contact enhancer. WD40 and graphite will dry, never-seize and graphite won't dry.

 

[Blumlein 88]

I'm sure he meant to say "reduce contact resistance."

Second it is a "contact enhancer". Period!

All of the ones I've seen and used were graphite based contact enhancers.

A cleaner is another thing. Its for all the plugs that use a dielectric grease with enviro sealing plugs. Your suppose to clean the plug on both sides add new
grease and plug them back in. They actually have seal kit for the plug too.

The graphene enhancers technically can't work because the way graphene work's. Its only molecules thick between surfaces. It's not how thick it is how thin
it is.

I use graphite 3000 and WD40, never failed me yet. I can make a quart of the shit for 50 bucks and it last for 50 years. You can use never-seize and graphite,
for a great contact enhancer. WD40 and graphite will dry, never-seize and graphite won't dry.

You can buy small tubes of Permatex Dieletric Tune up grease at most auto parts stores. It could be used this way. It isn't dry so it stays put.

 

[DonH56]

I use Berryman Electronic Cleaner. Some of the others caused problems with plastics so prevalent today. CRC QD Electronic Cleaner is one I have used in the past, but I still have half a can of Berryman left, and the store was out of CRC last time I needed some a few years ago... A local techie said he preferred Berryman.

Berryman: https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-2206-Mass-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B0002JM89A/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3PSKOCH8TH5IC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TG1zso3fg_tAoNz82kHuqLFkcvO9PT3FlAf5pRBV0zFtmWXGcKISpevVDPrzRbS-ZZpYFQEfoeo1tdoVTBFWV9Kf7_FM6U2snv6u8MHoOJO8iSGNCbM7hrZr32xmTGEqN64lLHohEDCaPzPKNHxztmM5UvAYgxdfyM8s_fXtupdQFW7ODNlEpsl-8zcZhzkuncNNGm1ElDpUEnDnjxkOmEUeCXfhxZe05-eqw0gOJEM.Iy6g9Gcd7Jwjk0_qx_swGEj8AIdgep1EV6OCYitmrYk&dib_tag=se&keywords=berryman+electronic+cleaner&qid=1722915328&sprefix=berryman+electronic,aps,121&sr=8-1&th=1

CRC: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3PSKOCH8TH5IC&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.TG1zso3fg_tAoNz82kHuqLFkcvO9PT3FlAf5pRBV0zFtmWXGcKISpevVDPrzRbS-ZZpYFQEfoeo1tdoVTBFWV9Kf7_FM6U2snv6u8MHoOJO8iSGNCbM7hrZr32xmTGEqN64lLHohEDCaPzPKNHxztmM5UvAYgxdfyM8s_fXtupdQFW7ODNlEpsl-8zcZhzkuncNNGm1ElDpUEnDnjxkOmEUeCXfhxZe05-eqw0gOJEM.Iy6g9Gcd7Jwjk0_qx_swGEj8AIdgep1EV6OCYitmrYk&dib_tag=se&keywords=berryman+electronic+cleaner&qid=1722915328&sprefix=berryman+electronic,aps,121&sr=8-5&th=1

 

[OldHvyMec]

Permatex Dieletric Tune up grease

Dielectric grease is non conductive.

Adding 15–20% graphite to copper can improve its properties without significantly reducing its electrical conductivity.

 

[Blumlein 88]

Dielectric grease is non conductive.

Adding 15–20% graphite to copper can improve its properties without significantly reducing its electrical conductivity.

Where I've used it was where you had physical contact, but wanted to seal out air/moisture. I also used it on connectors for my internal connections on ESL speakers because it was intended for automotive electrical systems and wouldn't conduct even at high voltages. So it depends upon whether you want it to conduct or not.

 

[OldHvyMec]

So it depends upon whether you want it to conduct or not.

It's non conductive because it was developed for gas fired engines with a primary and secondary coil used with points, rotor and condenser.
It's very simply point-lube to reduce wear between the point contact and the distributer cam lobes. It's non conductive in case it gets hot
enough to "sling grease" and cause misfires in the distributor cap. If you remove and old distributor cap that ran point you'll see the residue
360 degrees below the primary and above the secondary inside the cap. 20-50,000 volts will ARC with ALL normal grease. The actual best point
grease was Neo. It was developed for Harley Davidson during WWII. They started using HDs and developed problems in the wet European
climate. Neo stopped the problems.

Strangely enough Neo was in a red squeeze Tube vs can the OP was asking about. That is a cleaner, this is used after cleaning THEN lubing the
distributor's mechanical timing advance and counterweights. It was developed for all distributer lube needs.

Dielectric grease is for a 100% ENVIRO seal between electrical connections. Mainly cars, pickups, semis and anything with physical water contact
12-24VDC don't mix with moisture very well. Dirty water and tap water is VERY conductive where distilled water isn't.

So for your speaker connections you use a cleaner, then apply contact enhancer to the pins and pocket VERY sparingly and let it dry THEN use a
dielectric grease to seal between the pin plastic holders and the environment O2, moisture etc.
Result no green/blue goo or corrosion with copper or silver.

Hopefully you don't have gold plating, I scrape that shit off for a LOT better contact. Graphite, silver, copper, THEN gold. Seldom do you see
gold anything in automotive or HD except in BS audio for cars. LOL Fused holders and crap like that. Just for looks. As a matter of fact I've
NEVER seen gold plating used in 12-24VDC transportation connections. AND it's not because of cost either. Rhodium is another line of hooey.
LOW conductivity and WAY to hard for good contact. Lead or nickel are both better (never-seize) add copper and graphite you have Nuclear
never-seize. It STOPS galvanization scaling between unlike metals like aluminum(frame-rails) and anodized carbon steel or cast bolts and hangers.

Yup!

Regards

 

[Punter]

Cramolin was excellent! I remember setting up a band PA once and the thing was buzzing like a wasp nest. A quick once over with Cramolin fixed everything! Toxic chemicals be damned, that stuff was magic.