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Apollon Purifi vs Hypex

Thank you guys for the quick responses.

Just one minor question (for now haha).

When i look at the frequency response of the two amps.
The NCx starts to "roll off" slowly at around 10kHz whereas the Nilai in this setup goes flat till 25kHz.

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Wouldn´t that be considered as a nicer full range coverage 20-20kHz for my golden ears :-D
Or would you guys expect that to be inaudible anyways.

I think you have to buy the Nilia as a kit, I'm not sure Apollon or any of these (assemble companies) sell them already built.
Purfi amps don't seem to have that small drop like the Hypex. Here's one tested from Audiophonics.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ics-hpa-s400et-review-stereo-amplifier.32014/

index.php
 
I think you have to buy the Nilia as a kit, I'm not sure Apollon or any of these (assemble companies) sell them already built.
Purfi amps don't seem to have that small drop like the Hypex. Here's one tested from Audiophonics.
 
Just was about to post this one as well, the Nil version it´s 2 x 300 watts at 4Ohm and 300€ more expensive than the companies Purify build at 2 x 400 Watt at 4 Ohm.
Measurement wise they are quite comparable, case and build is the same, so what´s the benefit of buying the less powerful more expensive version?
Besides it´s "new"...

... just checked the manufacturers homepage.
So what do they say about their products?


NcoreX > Ncore (two times better!)
Nilai > Ncore (ten times better!)
NcoreX vs. Nilai ? ( i guess Nilai wins as it´s ten times better :))

1704733234456.png

and Purify states it´s more than times better than the competition

1704733179245.png


So Nilai and Purify about the same as both are 10 times better, but Purify is even better :)
 
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Both amp are overkill for most bookshelf speakers in the world, except a very few extremely inefficient ones.
You can buy either and be happy. Or buy a cheaper amp and better speakers.
Absolutely, I’m not even set on buying either. My initial plan was to get one of the Lux options with the standard Purifi/Hypex modules. I was more asking in this post to find differences between the brands to help pick one over the other. Those models are just the ones I had up when I was digging further into the Apollon offerings.
 
Absolutely, I’m not even set on buying either. My initial plan was to get one of the Lux options with the standard Purifi/Hypex modules. I was more asking in this post to find differences between the brands to help pick one over the other. Those models are just the ones I had up when I was digging further into the Apollon offerings.
Basically none. Previously Purifi has the edge as they are cleaner (and more power IIRC), but more expensive. With the Nilai it is basically head to head now. Both are great options but I would be happy for something like 502MP and save the rest
 
There is no pair of 'bookshelf' speakers on earth that would need or demand the type of power you are considering.

The Purifi is the unit I would pick, if it were driven by a supply that can provide sufficient power.

The Apollon numbers need to be verified as they are cut and paste module specs last time I looked.
What about bookshelf speakers driven by RCA preouts of a Denon AVR which puts out 1.45 good volts and then starts to degrade. I'd think a more power amp would be in order, no?
 
Both amp are overkill for most bookshelf speakers in the world, except a very few extremely inefficient ones.
You can buy either and be happy. Or buy a cheaper amp and better speakers.
Unless you've got 1.5 volts out of a Denon AVR
 
What about bookshelf speakers driven by RCA preouts of a Denon AVR which puts out 1.45 good volts and then starts to degrade. I'd think a more power amp would be in order, no?
Preouts are not made for driving speakers. They don’t supply the power (current) for the low impedance of a speaker and most likely kill your Denon over time when doing it. Use the speaker out of the Denon and be good for bookshelves.
 
Preouts are not made for driving speakers. They don’t supply the power (current) for the low impedance of a speaker and most likely kill your Denon over time when doing it. Use the speaker out of the Denon and be good for bookshelves.
Why would it kill the Denon? I have all amps off. The unit runs super cool. I would think I'm extending it's life. 104 SINAD via AKM chip. Room correction and sub integration. Ease of listening in 2.2 or home theater. Just need good class D amps and loud enough for me. Speakers are 8 ohms and between 86 and 90 sensitivity. My model actually puts out 2v with very little degradation.
 
Why would it kill the Denon? I have all amps off. The unit runs super cool. I would think I'm extending it's life. 104 SINAD via AKM chip. Room correction and sub integration. Ease of listening in 2.2 or home theater. Just need good class D amps and loud enough for me. Speakers are 8 ohms and between 86 and 90 sensitivity. My model actually puts out 2v with very little degradation.
Because a RCA preout can’t provide the current for a speaker. It is usually made to go into a 48kOhm load (common input impedance of a power amp) and not into a 4 to 8ohm speaker. That is a 6000x higher current as opposed to what it was designed to.

You need to hook up external power amps to the RCA outs and connect the speakers to the power amps. Or is this what you want? You are not clear in your previous post.

Or drive the speakers from the Denon speaker outs, which for many applications provides plenty of power especially in small/medium room.

Good luck.
 
Because a RCA preout can’t provide the current for a speaker. It is usually made to go into a 48kOhm load (common input impedance of a power amp) and not into a 4 to 8ohm speaker. That is a 6000x higher current as opposed to what it was designed to.

You need to hook up external power amps to the RCA outs and connect the speakers to the power amps. Or is this what you want? You are not clear in your previous post.

Or drive the speakers from the Denon speaker outs, which for many applications provides plenty of power especially in small/medium room.

Good luck.
There must be some confusion. Internal amps are off. RCA preouts are feeding class D amplifiers to speakers.
 
The Purifi has input sensitivity switching. I assume on high that the 1.5v is fine.
I actually now have both Purifi 400 and Hypex NCx500 amps. I run them both on the highest db setting out of the Denon. Both sound great with Purifi having a bit less power as everyone says. My mains are 86 sensitivity so I'm using the Hypex there, with Purifi for center.
 
Good to know I've only seen the kits.
I received my Nilai500DIY Stereo kit two weeks ago. It was simple to put together. It took me less than two hours, and I was methodical and going slow.

The kit includes the tools you need, except for a very small (3.5mm) flat head screwdriver, a 12mm wrench, and a 7mm socket or plyers. I didn't have a 7mm socket, and it was only to hold a nut to screw the ground terminal to the chassis, so I used plyers. The manual also indicates that wire cutters are required, but I didn't need them - there was nothing that needed to be cut.

The only caution is that the kit included the exact number of screws of every size that was needed. So, assemble the amp in a place where you will easily find a screw if you drop one. I built it on an old towel to minimize risk of a screw bouncing off the table if I dropped one.

Strangely, there were 4 screws included in the kit that were different than all of the other screws, and the manual indicates that they are unused. After finishing the assembly, I was wondering what I missed. I went back and looked through the manual and, sure enough, it indicates those four screws as being unused. I have no idea why they were included with the kit.
 
Also, I ordered my kit from Deer Creak Audio for $1,279.

I also ordered the faceplate with the DIY logo for $85, mistakenly thinking that the faceplate that comes with the amp would just be a flat piece of aluminum. It turns out that the kit comes with the exact same faceplate, except without the engraving. Had I investigated that further I would have gone without the engraving and saved the $85.
 
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Dear Creak Audio
Deer Creek... ;)
I also ordered the faceplate with the DIY logo for $85, mistakenly thinking that the faceplate that comes with the amp would just be a flat piece of aluminum. It turns out that the kit comes with the exact same faceplate, except without the engraving.
Yeah that's why it shows in the product picture with the "DIY Logo" and then asks;
Faceplate without DIY logo (optional)


JSmith
 
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