Airpulse A100 Review (Powered Speaker)

[umbral]

I'm only listening near field as a computer setup, the speaker positioning is already not great (close to a wall), but listening near field kind of fixes that problem a little. The sub will be under my desk around 30cm from the wall, and I have another desk infront of that desk. So around 70cm away from my feet and the front of the front desk. I'm sure this may not be optimal for the best possible sound, but I am a bit limited in my current room regardless. Again, it's just near field listening, and not really loud. I already have a cable for it yes, I had an old sub that I sold. My room is around 13 sqm. That's why I chose the SB version, also because of price. I will surely not need it to be loud for near field listening. Do you reckon I should use the small room setting, to trim the sub bass a little? Thank you for your help, I will get the sub in a week or so.

Yes then the SB-1000 Pro is more then enough, good choice.

What is this small room setting ?
Is it from SVS manual :

"Room Gain Compensation (SVS App Only)
Fixes bloated sounding bass by optimizing low frequency output and extension when too much sound wave density is being created by a small room"

You can try with or without. But first you need to set the sub-woofer correctly without this setting.

The Airpulse A100 doesn't have big problem if it is near the wall, although some bass frequencies will be enhanced if the speakers are too close to the wall but at loud volumes only.

How close to the wall is the back port in cm ?

If you place the subwoofer near the wall you will get increased bass at lower volumes. But you can place it very close to the wall since it does not have any ports.
In the last video with subwoofer positioning it says a trick how you can move the sub in the room for optimal position.

You can use the Airpulse A100 to change their position with the foam they provide so they point to your ears. (very important)

You can also put behind the A100 some egg carton, if they are too close to the wall, but i don't think there is a problem.

 

[muad]

Yes then the SB-1000 Pro is more then enough, good choice.

What is this small room setting ?
Is it from SVS manual :

"Room Gain Compensation (SVS App Only)
Fixes bloated sounding bass by optimizing low frequency output and extension when too much sound wave density is being created by a small room"

You can try with or without. But first you need to set the sub-woofer correctly without this setting.

The Airpulse A100 doesn't have big problem if it is near the wall, although some bass frequencies will be enhanced if the speakers are too close to the wall but at loud volumes only.

How close to the wall is the back port in cm ?

If you place the subwoofer near the wall you will get increased bass at lower volumes. But you can place it very close to the wall since it does not have any ports.
In the last video with subwoofer positioning it says a trick how you can move the sub in the room for optimal position.

You can use the Airpulse A100 to change their position with the foam they provide so they point to your ears. (very important)

You can also put behind the A100 some egg carton, if they are too close to the wall, but i don't think there is a problem.

Do you have any data that egg carton reduces boundary gain? Or reduces wavelengths corresponding to <100hz?

 

[Phoney]

Yes then the SB-1000 Pro is more then enough, good choice.

What is this small room setting ?
Is it from SVS manual :

"Room Gain Compensation (SVS App Only)
Fixes bloated sounding bass by optimizing low frequency output and extension when too much sound wave density is being created by a small room"

You can try with or without. But first you need to set the sub-woofer correctly without this setting.

The Airpulse A100 doesn't have big problem if it is near the wall, although some bass frequencies will be enhanced if the speakers are too close to the wall but at loud volumes only.

How close to the wall is the back port in cm ?

If you place the subwoofer near the wall you will get increased bass at lower volumes. But you can place it very close to the wall since it does not have any ports.
In the last video with subwoofer positioning it says a trick how you can move the sub in the room for optimal position.

You can use the Airpulse A100 to change their position with the foam they provide so they point to your ears. (very important)

You can also put behind the A100 some egg carton, if they are too close to the wall, but i don't think there is a problem.

I started at 30cm, but that caused cancellation below 120hz, and a large resonance peak at around 140hz. Also some boost in the low mids. I moved them away from the wall to like 50cm away, which fixed the issue pretty much. Moving them even further caused them to be too close to me, and the staging took a hit from that. Problem about placement is that the left speaker is just a few cm from the side wall, but it's angeled towards me and it's near field. So while it's not optimal, it's not a big issue to my ears.

 

[umbral]

I started at 30cm, but that caused cancellation below 120hz, and a large resonance peak at around 140hz. Also some boost in the low mids. I moved them away from the wall to like 50cm away, which fixed the issue pretty much. Moving them even further caused them to be too close to me, and the staging took a hit from that. Problem about placement is that the left speaker is just a few cm from the side wall, but it's angeled towards me and it's near field. So while it's not optimal, it's not a big issue to my ears.

Take a look here it says about monitors and subwoofers : https://www.genelec.com/monitor-placement

A solution seems to be to put the speakers very close to the wall like minimum 5 cm (be careful not to bend the cables.)

The first solution is to flush mount the monitors into a hard wall (creating a very large baffle) eliminating the rear wall reflections and therefore cancellations. Another possibility is to place the monitor very close to the wall minimising the gap. This raises the lowest cancellation frequency so high that the monitor has become forward-directing, and the cancellation no longer occurs. Remember that the low frequency boost should be compensated for when the monitor is mounted close to the wall (up to +6 dB gain).

Alternatively, the monitor could be moved considerably further away from the wall to eliminate back reflections. The cancellation frequency will be lowered below the low frequency cut-off of the monitor. When the monitor is moved away from the walls, it also moves close to the listener. This increases the direct sound level and reduces the reflected sound level which improves the sound quality.

Acoustical treatment of the walls is another solution. It could mean modifying the wall and making it very absorptive so that the amplitude of the reflected energy is small and does not cancel the direct sound. When a subwoofer is used to reproduce low frequencies the monitors can be placed more freely. The subwoofer(s) should be placed close to the wall(s). The monitors could be placed at distances where low frequency notches do not occur in their pass-band.

To avoid cancellation of audio because of the sound reflecting back from the wall behind the monitor, follow the placement guideline pictured below. The wall reflection happens at relatively low woofer frequencies only. Avoiding the cancellation is important because the reflected sound can reduce the woofer output causing the monitor low frequency output to appear to be too low, thus resulting e.g. on mistakes in the final mix in music production. To avoid the cancellation, place the monitor close enough to the wall. Typically the distance from the monitor front to the wall should be less than 60 centimetres. This ensures that the low frequency output is not reduced. Additionally, the monitor needs a minimum clearance of 5 cm to the wall to ensure full output from the rear bass reflex port.

So try putting it very close to the wall and maybe use some egg carton to absorb some.
IT isn't a problem if you get 6 db, 12 db or 18 db from the very low frequency from the small speaker, it actually helps the Airpulse A100.
The cancellation is more problematic since you will lose some frequencies like 120 Hz that the sub-woofer won't compensate.

The 140 Hz resonance came from what ? The cabinet ? The room ? The objects around ?
I also don't know if it is OK to use the EQ provided : 1400 Hz at -3 db because this will make the crossover between twitter and woofer worse. I can't hear any resonance at 1400 Hz with my ears of the cabinet.

1400 Hz is tweeter territory. Where the tweeter starts to overlap with the woofer. The woofer does not seem to work at all at 1400 Hz. So the resonances came from what ? The metal inside the speaker ? Maybe the tweeter itself vibrates and resonates differently at the lowest setting.

 

[Phoney]

Take a look here it says about monitors and subwoofers : https://www.genelec.com/monitor-placement

A solution seems to be to put the speakers very close to the wall like minimum 5 cm (be careful not to bend the cables.)




So try putting it very close to the wall and maybe use some egg carton to absorb some.
IT isn't a problem if you get 6 db, 12 db or 18 db from the very low frequency from the small speaker, it actually helps the Airpulse A100.
The cancellation is more problematic since you will lose some frequencies like 120 Hz that the sub-woofer won't compensate.

The 140 Hz resonance came from what ? The cabinet ? The room ? The objects around ?
I also don't know if it is OK to use the EQ provided : 1400 Hz at -3 db because this will make the crossover between twitter and woofer worse. I can't hear any resonance at 1400 Hz with my ears of the cabinet.

1400 Hz is tweeter territory. Where the tweeter starts to overlap with the woofer. The woofer does not seem to work at all at 1400 Hz. So the resonances came from what ? The metal inside the speaker ? Maybe the tweeter itself vibrates and resonates differently at the lowest setting.

Hmm so this 1400hz peak should not be equalized? Amir has a really good measurement rig, so I don't doubt that it's real. It's not that easy to hear a peak like that by ear. It's the type of peak that you don't know is there until you see it in a repsonse, EQ it down and then try to hear the difference.

 

[umbral]

Hmm so this 1400hz peak should not be equalized? Amir has a really good measurement rig, so I don't doubt that it's real. It's not that easy to hear a peak like that by ear. It's the type of peak that you don't know is there until you see it in a repsonse, EQ it down and then try to hear the difference.

See my PM to you.

As far as i understand if you EQ the 1400 Hz by -3 db you will of course slightly lower the cabinet resonance (coming from the port apparently or at least that is where it was perceived by the equipment), but you will also change the crossover point. Now If you look at the graph at 60 hz or 70 hz or 80 Hz the port also resonates and much louder (10 dB more = double in perceived volume) and you don't find it disturbing in any way. And you don't lower that area just because there is cabinet/port distortion, correct ? Because you lose bass.

Why would you lower 1400 Hz if the distortion is half ?

EQ should be used, and i use Amir EQ settings for AKG K371 headphones for example, when the problem is with the curve (not flat enough or if there are some problems with how the speaker sounds), but to correct the resonance of the cabinet at the price of worse frequency maybe not the best idea ?

However since it is really subtle in terms of sound, i wonder what effect does it have that -3 dB on the actual port resonance ? Will it also drop by 3 db or more ?

In the end i get a lower volume and a lower cabinet resonance, so their relationship stays the same. If i put a sine wave it would resonate the same at a certain volume, because i lowered both at the same time by the same amount. Right ? What is now changed with -3dB at 1400 Hz is that the curve is different in relation to the other sounds.

 

[Phoney]

Hi,

Here is my take on the EQ.


These EQ are anechoic EQ to get the speaker right before room integration. If you able to implement these EQs you must add EQ at LF for room integration, that is usually not optional… see hints there: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...helf-speaker-review.11144/page-26#post-800725

The raw data with corrected ER and PIR:

Score no EQ: 4.6
With Sub: 7.1

Spinorama with no EQ:

• Smiley curve?
• Lots of resonances 500 - 2000Hz
• maybe not the best bang for the buck...

View attachment 160257
Directivity:

Better stay at tweeter height
Horizontally, better toe-in the speakers by 10/20deg and have the axis crossing in front of the listening location, might help dosing the upper range.
View attachment 160258
View attachment 160262
EQ design:

I have generated two EQs. The APO config files are attached.

• The first one, labelled, LW is targeted at making the LW flat
• The second, labelled Score, starts with the first one and adds the score as an optimization variable.
• The EQs are designed in the context of regular stereo use i.e. domestic environment, no warranty is provided for a near field use in a studio environment although the LW might be better suited for this purpose.
• Lots of fine EQ points might not translate well on different units

Score EQ LW: 5.8
with sub: 8.4

Score EQ Score: 6.1
with sub: 8.6

Airplus A100 APO EQ LW 96000Hz
October202021-100256

Preamp: -1.9 dB

Filter 1: ON PK Fc 95.39,    -1.57,    1.45
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 679.31,    -1.45,    3.69
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 943.99,    -2.03,    4.19
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 1390.69,    -6.84,    6.66
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 1411.66,    4.95,    1.43
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 1685.66,    -2.87,    5.09
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 4672.54,    -1.31,    1.03
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 13184.47,    -2.31,    2.95

Airplus A100 APO EQ Score 96000Hz
October202021-095141

Preamp: -1.5 dB

Filter 1: ON PK Fc 98.74,    -1.49,    1.37
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 683.31,    -1.74,    2.53
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 938.95,    -1.78,    5.11
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 1394.19,    -6.84,    5.54
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 1410.11,    4.74,    1.36
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 1725.52,    -2.87,    6.06
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 4789.33,    -1.95,    0.79
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 13186.47,    -2.85,    2.56

View attachment 160254
Spinorama EQ LW
View attachment 160256

Spinorama EQ Score
View attachment 160255

Zoom PIR-LW-ON
View attachment 160252

Regression - Tonal
View attachment 160253

Radar no EQ vs EQ score
Some improvements
View attachment 160251


The rest of the plots is attached.

Hey! I love yuor LW eq of this speaker. I'm using it near-field with a sub set to crossover 80hz. I was wondering about that first filter at 95.39 hz. Judging by the measurements, I thought that this area was already on the target anyways? Also, why leave a peak at 70hz when you're correcting the bass already? I did find your filter helpful in calming the upper bass a bit, and didn't bother to eq 70hz notch as this is at the crossover area, and also probably pretty room dependant. Maybe these are some of the reasons as to why you leave the notch yourself?

And before anyone points it out, I'm fully aware that my room messes with the response anyways, but I'm listening near-field and the LW eq sounds really good to me. I wont buy a measuring microphone and use REW, I'm just asking because I want to understand a bit more about this EQ design.

 

[asp3]

Another shout out for the A100. I have them right now on my 2nd system. My main system is the Dali Menuet SE and a 30 yr old Proac Response 1S.

The A100 vocals is very sweet and smooth. I AB-ed the A100 at the shop vs the Elac Debut Connex DCB41, Klipsch The 5s and Q Acoustics M20. The A100 had the best presentation out of everyone. The Klipsch bass was overpowering, and Elac, Klipsch and Q Acoustics mid and treble are not as smooth and sweet as the A100.

The Dali Menuet SE has a much larger and recessed soundstage whereas the A100 has a more centralised and forward image. Due to the larger stage and depth the Menuet SE has better intrument separation but honestly I might prefer the more central and forward presentation of the A100 (although the vocals and instruments are all within a much narrower stage left-to-right vs the Menuet SE). Note the Dalis are brand new and might sound different as they have more runtime, the A100 are also brand new.

The Menuet SE / Response 1S are running on my inexpensive Yamaha WXA50 Streamer/Amp, as my main amps the Wyred4Sound DAC2SE and SX1000R combo may have some issues (sounds unusual and inferior on some types of music on the Menuet SE and Response 1S vs the WXA50, and one side of the SX1000R seems louder than the other).

Note all of my tests and listening are done with a sub (an older PSB Subseries 200).

 

[crappypanther]

Guys! For those of you who would like to experience the sound quality of Airpulse, but would not like to pay thousands of money!
Edifier has another model with the same woofer as the Airpulse line. The only thing is that this is the smallest driver - 3.7", which is slightly smaller than that of the Airpulse A80.

The model's name - S880DB
It costs +-280 usd
Yes, it has a different type of tweeter, not ribbon but titanium. And this is a very smooth and cool tweeter! You can see this in the picture below. One guy took drivers measurements with a close microphone. His rewiev is here

If you twist the HF knob a little (+3db), you will get about the same top end as on the Airpulse.
These are my favorite small speakers at the moment.

 

[audiojack]

Does someone have parametric EQ settings for the A100 to change the flat sound and make it sound more dynamic?
I own both the AIrpulse A100 and A300. The A300 sounds way more dynamic (less muffled/dull), especially the vocals on the A300 sound much more forward. I would like the A100 to sound similar to the A300. What parametric EQ settings do I need to accomplish that? Thanks.

 

[Krit]

I bought this 2 years ago, in China it cost ￥2499, ~$350

That's a steel! I bought two pairs one in 2021 for 573€ and other in 2024 for 508€ also tried Kali audio IN-5 for 629€, Kali Audio LP-6 V2 for 409€, Focal Alpha EVO 65 for 679€, Airpulse SM200 for 810€ and many other cheaper options like JBL 305/306 MKII, Mackie MR Series etc.

Value for the money is very good, for my personal taste (listening) A100 sounds better than any of those listed above when listening in small room (nearfield) on stands not far away from pc screen. Only area where Kali Audio IN-5 is better is when listening vocals in movies other than that when listening music A100 has better more detailed tweeter and noticeably better mid bass detalization which is weird becouse IN-5 is 3way but for some reason just can not deliver in midbass area also Airpulse has way better cabinet quality for some reason in my opinion even JBL has better quality than Kali audio. When listening at lauder volumes Kali Audio IN-5 cabinet or speakers loves to resonate especially in lower quality recordings with decent amount of midbass. Also at some point i was thinking about Klipsch The Fives for 800€ but when looking at reviews there's a good chance that they actually may not be better than A100 a bit risky buy if there are no chance to listen to them.

Airpulse is not a popular brand at all but value is great when looking at the right product also ordered Airpulse SW8 SUB for 339€ will see how it works. Z reviews tested it and also said that this one dollar per dollar probably is better deal than SVS hmm....

 

[audiojack]

That's a steel! I bought two pairs one in 2021 for 573€ and other in 2024 for 508€ also tried Kali audio IN-5 for 629€, Kali Audio LP-6 V2 for 409€, Focal Alpha EVO 65 for 679€, Airpulse SM200 for 810€ and many other cheaper options like JBL 305/306 MKII, Mackie MR Series etc.

Value for the money is very good, for my personal taste (listening) A100 sounds better than any of those listed above when listening in small room (nearfield) on stands not far away from pc screen. Only area where Kali Audio IN-5 is better is when listening vocals in movies other than that when listening music A100 has better more detailed tweeter and noticeably better mid bass detalization which is weird becouse IN-5 is 3way but for some reason just can not deliver in midbass area also Airpulse has way better cabinet quality for some reason in my opinion even JBL has better quality than Kali audio. When listening at lauder volumes Kali Audio IN-5 cabinet or speakers loves to resonate especially in lower quality recordings with decent amount of midbass. Also at some point i was thinking about Klipsch The Fives for 800€ but when looking at reviews there's a good chance that they actually may not be better than A100 a bit risky buy if there are no chance to listen to them.

Airpulse is not a popular brand at all but value is great when looking at the right product also ordered Airpulse SW8 SUB for 339€ will see how it works. Z reviews tested it and also said that this one dollar per dollar probably is better deal than SVS hmm....

Thank you for the in dept comment! I do agree on the vocals on the A100 sounding a little darker (compared to for example the A300 or s880db)

I wonder about the Airpulse SM200? Is it any good? How does it compare to the A100? The SM200 seems to have the same woofer driver as the Airpulse A200 (both are NOT underhung woofers, but A100, A300 and A300pro do have underhung woofers).

I've been looking to that Airpulse SW8 subwoofer, but read a review that it's not very musical and more for movies hence I started doubting. Wonder what you think about it? Where did you buy it for that price? It's kinda hard to find.

 

[Krit]

I wonder about the Airpulse SM200? Is it any good? How does it compare to the A100? The SM200 seems to have the same woofer driver as the Airpulse A200 (both are NOT underhung woofers, but A100, A300 and A300pro do have underhung woofers).

SM200 is a studio monitor it sounds more neutral than A100 (more boring) more thin than A100, A100 has somewhat fuller sound (more density overall) SM200 is less mean, less emotional sounding speaker especially in midrange and midbass area where A100 have arguably better detalization, SM200 has slightly better detalization in tweeter but overall i like A100 sound better just more enjoyable to listen. For my taste SM200 sounds better than, Kali Audio IN-5, LP6 V2 or Focal Alpha EVO 65. A100 has lover hiss level than all studio monitors it tested even SM200 has more hiss. Never used A80, A200, A300, A300Pro but what i read in internet seems to be that A100 or A300Pro is way to go.

As for SUB it's a decent upgrade from Edifier T5 it's faster, more detalized, better for music listening in general it blends better with A100 speakers. I bought it in Latvia (in europe it's cheaper than in USA) As for cons if you will listen to some heavy basshead music there will be some hearable port noise (that's if sub volume is adjusted wrong when adjusted right no issues here) and for a regular music listening it's sounds good it's not just some cheap movie sub to me it's sounds better than Dynaudio BM9S II not sure about REL HT/1003 i used it for short period of time years ago it was too big and i sold it. If yo can find it under 350€ (then it's a good deal) then i would recommend it and for 500$ i would not recommend it. For me price to performance ratio is all that matters.

 

[Krit]

Maybe somebody tried A100 and AE1 Active side by side ? My question is, is it worth it to spend close to 3x money for that.

 

[audiojack]

SM200 is a studio monitor it sounds more neutral than A100 (more boring) more thin than A100, A100 has somewhat fuller sound (more density overall) SM200 is less mean, less emotional sounding speaker especially in midrange and midbass area where A100 have arguably better detalization, SM200 has slightly better detalization in tweeter but overall i like A100 sound better just more enjoyable to listen. For my taste SM200 sounds better than, Kali Audio IN-5, LP6 V2 or Focal Alpha EVO 65. A100 has lover hiss level than all studio monitors it tested even SM200 has more hiss. Never used A80, A200, A300, A300Pro but what i read in internet seems to be that A100 or A300Pro is way to go.

As for SUB it's a decent upgrade from Edifier T5 it's faster, more detalized, better for music listening in general it blends better with A100 speakers. I bought it in Latvia (in europe it's cheaper than in USA) As for cons if you will listen to some heavy basshead music there will be some hearable port noise (that's if sub volume is adjusted wrong when adjusted right no issues here) and for a regular music listening it's sounds good it's not just some cheap movie sub to me it's sounds better than Dynaudio BM9S II not sure about REL HT/1003 i used it for short period of time years ago it was too big and i sold it. If yo can find it under 350€ (then it's a good deal) then i would recommend it and for 500$ i would not recommend it. For me price to performance ratio is all that matters.

Hey thanks for the information! I have a question about the SM200, does it remember the gain setting after turning it off and on with the power switch, when using it via XLR on an external DAC? Thank you.

 

[Krit]

Hey thanks for the information! I have a question about the SM200, does it remember the gain setting after turning it off and on with the power switch, when using it via XLR on an external DAC? Thank you.

Right now i do not have opportunity to test it but as i remember that's probably audio interface related thing. SM200 will not drop it's volume by itself.

 

[Pere02]

Hello Friends, I read a lot this forum and I decided for this speaker but now I have a doubt in Spain the price for this speakers it’s 499€ and the question is the Airpulse a200 is for 599€ and the a300 pro 1200€ and I have the doubt right now thanks and sorry for my English