Ditto that. The AA+ was a one-time mod to the Parts Express BR-1 kit that I offered when the price of the Morel tweeter was within reach. Soon after, the price soared to $100 a piece, and it was no longer "affordable." The AA+ was an entirely different speaker than the modded BS-22 Pioneer.
pretty much any PCB project board would work but you have to take the time to layout the circuit. When I did my CS22 center channel per Dennis' mod I reused the stock board and then stacked one of the project boards on top of that on standoffs. It was a pita to get it to all fit, get the coils spaced apart, and to get it all to still clear the cabinet opening but I did. I had probably made life foolishly hard for myself by over-speccing the wire gauge of one or both of the coils, making them bulkier than I should have. Fwiw, speaker designers often just build their crossovers on pieces of hdf or other hard materials. All my old Snells are like that and you see it a lot in pictures of speaker designers "in progress" crossovers. Most of the time the number of junctions are so small that you can just solder each component to the next one and only need 1 or 2 jumpers to complete the circuit. But someone more experienced should jump in and correct me on any of this.
I've never bothered with PCB's. You have to think too much. I just cut a piece of peg board to size, lay out the components in a logical pattern, secure them with pull ties, and solder.
I got aggressive with an exacto knife, almost taking my fingertip off a couple times, I think I scored the sheathing on a capacity but not any of the components I was keeping
I also used an exacto knife, probably a little too much.
yeah, PCB's are a bit delicate, it's easy to pull the copper layer away from the substrate, especially the pads (the small circles) when de-soldering components. If you're going to do more boards invest in a solder sucker, some solder braid, and maybe some alligator clips or similar to use as heat sinks. You've lost a couple pads and I don't know a way to restore them so you end up just bypassing that part of the board with jumpers. I cut one of the copper tracks on one of my boards and was able to use another hole or a jumper to work around the now defunct path (I don't remember exactly how). But as Dennis pointed out, there's nothing that really says you have to follow the board, or even use it at all other than as a flat surface to secure the components to.
Welcome to the club, I've got the emotiva b1 mods he did....... He's sure good at crossover design....
I built a pair identical to yours in 2002/3, and used them to full advantage as near-field monitoring in my home studio for several years. They (and a great deal more) were stolen from my house in 2011, but I'd love to build another pair.
Dennis is currently recovering from surgery , but i'm hoping he'll be back to posting soon.. i'd bet he still has the info...
@Dennis Murphy has been recovering from recent surgery, but maybe he 's been reading the forums... if not @ryanosaur may well have an answer... my *guess* is that there are several options including plain old pillow stuffing... i hope this helps
Thank you for your response. I'll be waiting.@Dennis Murphy has been recovering from recent surgery, but maybe he 's been reading the forums... if not @ryanosaur may well have an answer... my *guess* is that there are several options including plain old pillow stuffing... i hope this helps
There are several options for stuffing. The main goal is to break up the back wave inside the cabinet.
You should be fine using other stuff to line the internal walls. We used poly in the True Minis.
this is what the Philharmonic Audio "community" is like , you should join us over on avs... we talk speakers and a whole bunch of unrelated stuff.. it's fun...
If you can get the recycled denim insulation, that is probably the best option.
