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Affordable Accuracy Monitor Review

Started taking the speaker apart. Removed the vinyl as it was peeling and looked awful and decided to put on some walnut veneer. Then I became panic-stricken how do I flush trim a curved cabinet? The tops and bottom are a breeze but what about the front sides and rear?

Applied 50-50 mix of wood glue:water

Edit: I am located in Canada, I cannot find the appropriate PCB board. What alternatives can I order?

Would something like this work: https://www.amazon.ca/YUNGUI-Protob...-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Thank you in advance.
 

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HighFutility said:
Started taking the speaker apart. Removed the vinyl as it was peeling and looked awful and decided to put on some walnut veneer. Then I became panic-stricken how do I flush trim a curved cabinet? The tops and bottom are a breeze but what about the front sides and rear?

Applied 50-50 mix of wood glue:water

Edit: I am located in Canada, I cannot find the appropriate PCB board. What alternatives can I order?

Would something like this work: https://www.amazon.ca/YUNGUI-Protob...-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Thank you in advance.
Click to expand...
pretty much any PCB project board would work but you have to take the time to layout the circuit. When I did my CS22 center channel per Dennis' mod I reused the stock board and then stacked one of the project boards on top of that on standoffs. It was a pita to get it to all fit, get the coils spaced apart, and to get it all to still clear the cabinet opening but I did. I had probably made life foolishly hard for myself by over-speccing the wire gauge of one or both of the coils, making them bulkier than I should have. Fwiw, speaker designers often just build their crossovers on pieces of hdf or other hard materials. All my old Snells are like that and you see it a lot in pictures of speaker designers "in progress" crossovers. Most of the time the number of junctions are so small that you can just solder each component to the next one and only need 1 or 2 jumpers to complete the circuit. But someone more experienced should jump in and correct me on any of this.
 
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cavedriver said:
pretty much any PCB project board would work but you have to take the time to layout the circuit. When I did my CS22 center channel per Dennis' mod I reused the stock board and then stacked one of the project boards on top of that on standoffs. It was a pita to get it to all fit, get the coils spaced apart, and to get it all to still clear the cabinet opening but I did. I had probably made life foolishly hard for myself by over-speccing the wire gauge of one or both of the coils, making them bulkier than I should have. Fwiw, speaker designers often just build their crossovers on pieces of hdf or other hard materials. All my old Snells are like that and you see it a lot in pictures of speaker designers "in progress" crossovers. Most of the time the number of junctions are so small that you can just solder each component to the next one and only need 1 or 2 jumpers to complete the circuit. But someone more experienced should jump in and correct me on any of this.
Click to expand...
I've never bothered with PCB's. You have to think too much. I just cut a piece of peg board to size, lay out the components in a logical pattern, secure them with pull ties, and solder.
 
Update, the glue on the PCB is a nightmare to remove. I guess due to the amount of time that has passed, the glue has cured into cement. I had to apply goo-gone and let it soak overnight skim a layer off and repeat. For those who are looking to perform the mod, here's a heads-up.
 
HighFutility said:
Update, the glue on the PCB is a nightmare to remove. I guess due to the amount of time that has passed, the glue has cured into cement. I had to apply goo-gone and let it soak overnight skim a layer off and repeat. For those who are looking to perform the mod, here's a heads-up.
Click to expand...
I got aggressive with an exacto knife, almost taking my fingertip off a couple times, I think I scored the sheathing on a capacity but not any of the components I was keeping
 
cavedriver said:
I got aggressive with an exacto knife, almost taking my fingertip off a couple times, I think I scored the sheathing on a capacity but not any of the components I was keeping
Click to expand...
I also used an exacto knife, probably a little too much.

Edit: I take it this board is a throwaway with all the knicks.

Apologies in advance for the first time ever working with crossovers/pcb/solder guns, etc. Baptism by fire.
 

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HighFutility said:
I also used an exacto knife, probably a little too much.

Edit: I take it this board is a throwaway with all the knicks.

Apologies in advance for the first time ever working with crossovers/pcb/solder guns, etc. Baptism by fire.
Click to expand...
yeah, PCB's are a bit delicate, it's easy to pull the copper layer away from the substrate, especially the pads (the small circles) when de-soldering components. If you're going to do more boards invest in a solder sucker, some solder braid, and maybe some alligator clips or similar to use as heat sinks. You've lost a couple pads and I don't know a way to restore them so you end up just bypassing that part of the board with jumpers. I cut one of the copper tracks on one of my boards and was able to use another hole or a jumper to work around the now defunct path (I don't remember exactly how). But as Dennis pointed out, there's nothing that really says you have to follow the board, or even use it at all other than as a flat surface to secure the components to.
 
I finished the crossover finally. Fired-up REW, measurement is 1/1 smoothing. Blue is stock, and green is with the @Dennis Murphy mod. I could use some help with veneering the curved portion of the cabinets if anyone has any tips. I would also like to add this was my first time working with crossovers. I didn't even know how to read the schematic. I saw someone selling a pair of these speakers, but they were beaten up, so I removed all the vinyl wrap. I am currently patching, sanding and dampening the cabinets.

I want to thank everyone on Audio Science Review for their contributions. @amirm has created something similar to SCI-HUB .


429797996_781668934015937_8962500772169341234_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
HighFutility said:
I finished the crossover finally. Fired-up REW, measurement is 1/1 smoothing. Blue is stock, and green is with the @Dennis Murphy mod. I could use some help with veneering the curved portion of the cabinets if anyone has any tips. I would also like to add this was my first time working with crossovers. I didn't even know how to read the schematic. I saw someone selling a pair of these speakers, but they were beaten up, so I removed all the vinyl wrap. I am currently patching, sanding and dampening the cabinets.

I want to thank everyone on Audio Science Review for their contributions. @amirm has created something similar to SCI-HUB .


View attachment 353828
Click to expand...
Welcome to the club, I've got the emotiva b1 mods he did....... He's sure good at crossover design....
 
tjf said:
Hey Dennis, great to see ya back and posting! I'm a fan of your old "Murphy Blaster" site and loved the "Plop-in-the-Box" design with the GR Research woofer and BG planar tweet!
Am wondering if you'd consider offering the DIY crowd (for a $$ cost -- you'd be selling your IP after all, so some coin for this should be thrown your way) the x-over designs + DIY instructions for some of your more recent designs (AA+, etc.) as there seems to be a resurgence in DIY speakers on this site thanks to Amir's Klippel work and donated speakers to test!
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I built a pair identical to yours in 2002/3, and used them to full advantage as near-field monitoring in my home studio for several years. They (and a great deal more) were stolen from my house in 2011, but I'd love to build another pair.

Can't for the life of me find a schematic for the LW crossover, or internal dimensions & port lgth/dia, though!
 
Rohan said:
I built a pair identical to yours in 2002/3, and used them to full advantage as near-field monitoring in my home studio for several years. They (and a great deal more) were stolen from my house in 2011, but I'd love to build another pair.

Can't for the life of me find a schematic for the LW crossover, or internal dimensions & port lgth/dia, though!
Click to expand...
Dennis is currently recovering from surgery , but i'm hoping he'll be back to posting soon.. i'd bet he still has the info...
 
hello. I live in Korea and don't speak English very well, so I write with a translator. Please forgive me if anything is wrong.
I am planning to buy SP-BS22LR second hand and after that tune it with AAM according to the instructions here.

I think I can buy the other parts in Korea, but the sonic barrier 1/2 inch foam product is not sold in Korea, only the 1 inch product. I don't want to pay the shipping cost to buy it overseas, so I ask here if I can use the 1 inch product or if there is any other good alternative. Also, I tried to check with chrome translator where I should put the foam, but I don't understand it very well. Is there anyone who can explain it to me in a clear way, thank you very much.
 
YeongGyun An said:
hello. I live in Korea and don't speak English very well, so I write with a translator. Please forgive me if anything is wrong.
I am planning to buy SP-BS22LR second hand and after that tune it with AAM according to the instructions here.

I think I can buy the other parts in Korea, but the sonic barrier 1/2 inch foam product is not sold in Korea, only the 1 inch product. I don't want to pay the shipping cost to buy it overseas, so I ask here if I can use the 1 inch product or if there is any other good alternative. Also, I tried to check with chrome translator where I should put the foam, but I don't understand it very well. Is there anyone who can explain it to me in a clear way, thank you very much.
Click to expand...
@Dennis Murphy has been recovering from recent surgery, but maybe he 's been reading the forums... if not @ryanosaur may well have an answer... my *guess* is that there are several options including plain old pillow stuffing... i hope this helps:)
 
YeongGyun An said:
hello. I live in Korea and don't speak English very well, so I write with a translator. Please forgive me if anything is wrong.
I am planning to buy SP-BS22LR second hand and after that tune it with AAM according to the instructions here.

I think I can buy the other parts in Korea, but the sonic barrier 1/2 inch foam product is not sold in Korea, only the 1 inch product. I don't want to pay the shipping cost to buy it overseas, so I ask here if I can use the 1 inch product or if there is any other good alternative. Also, I tried to check with chrome translator where I should put the foam, but I don't understand it very well. Is there anyone who can explain it to me in a clear way, thank you very much.
Click to expand...
There are several options for stuffing. The main goal is to break up the back wave inside the cabinet.
Simply, you could use Poly Fill, more commonly pillow stuffing.
Also the recycled denim insulation is a great option, if available to you.
The 1” product you mention could work, just use a little less, perhaps.

Placement:
I haven’t see the inside of that particular speaker, but some easy guidelines are to not put the filling too close to the woofer or to the port opening (if there is one).
In a similar mod which I did, the instruction was to fold up the material, push it in through the woofer cutout, then unfold it inside the cabinet leaving room as described above.

Hope this helps!
 
YeongGyun An said:
hello. I live in Korea and don't speak English very well, so I write with a translator. Please forgive me if anything is wrong.
I am planning to buy SP-BS22LR second hand and after that tune it with AAM according to the instructions here.

I think I can buy the other parts in Korea, but the sonic barrier 1/2 inch foam product is not sold in Korea, only the 1 inch product. I don't want to pay the shipping cost to buy it overseas, so I ask here if I can use the 1 inch product or if there is any other good alternative. Also, I tried to check with chrome translator where I should put the foam, but I don't understand it very well. Is there anyone who can explain it to me in a clear way, thank you very much.
Click to expand...
You should be fine using other stuff to line the internal walls. We used poly in the True Minis.
 
I wasn't expecting so many people to respond so quickly. I think I'm going to go with denim or poly fill for the price considering your answers. Thanks again!
 
YeongGyun An said:
I wasn't expecting so many people to respond so quickly. I think I'm going to go with denim or poly fill for the price considering your answers. Thanks again!
Click to expand...
this is what the Philharmonic Audio "community" is like , you should join us over on avs... we talk speakers and a whole bunch of unrelated stuff.. it's fun...:)
 
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