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A Thread Dedicated to Cirrus Logic CS43131

Your picture should indeed be the CD-20, while CD-10 should only have 2 buttons.

The first dual CS43198 i can remember was the Truthear Shio almost 2 years ago, with RT6863 opamps

dac-22.jpg


and given that both claim for 768 Khz support (via CT7601) my bet is that they are the same pcb, or maybe updated to SGM8262.
Corrected the picture!

About these IEM manufacturers: they may use the same OEM to design their “custom” dongles.
 
About the CS43198… I also have this (uncommon?) Kuang Pai “Plus 4” dongle:
1727137603521.png


Dual CS43198, dual RT6863, with 3.5/2.5/4.4 outputs. 150mW / 3V RMS in SE and 320 mW / 6V RMS in balanced mode. 3 gain levels and some “filters” accessible through button combination.
 
About the CS43198… I also have this (uncommon?) Kuang Pai “Plus 4” dongle:
View attachment 394453

Dual CS43198, dual RT6863, with 3.5/2.5/4.4 outputs. 150mW / 3V RMS in SE and 320 mW / 6V RMS in balanced mode. 3 gain levels and some “filters” accessible through button combination.
This surely is uncommon at 3V and 6V!
 
This surely is uncommon at 3V and 6V!
Yes, it’s a relatively large dongle. It has two PCBs, one dedicated to a charge pump or DC-DC converter—hence the 3V and 6V.

Kuang Pai is located in Taiwan, not Shenzen, mainland China like most other brands.
 
CD-10: dual CS43198

They’ve also announced a CD-20 built around a (single?) ES9039Q2M…
There are almost no reviews for Kinera's dongles online. On AliExpress, you can read subjective reviews from a few people who bought the CD-10. However, it is currently out of stock and has been replaced by the CD-20. The product description have been updated, but the reviews and rating remain from the previous CD-10 model.
 
I just received a JM20 dongle from this Aliexpress store and it seems to work perfectly except for one huge problem: if Kodi is running, Kodi's audio will constantly pop/drop out. Even worse, if Kodi is running (not playing anything) it will make all Windows audio including system noises pop and drop out. I have posted on the Kodi forums here and you can see all the steps I've tried to fix this. But I'm starting to feel like this problem is so weird, it can't be Kodi's fault. But Kodi is the only program I've run that has this issue.

While the problem started with just the generic Windows drivers, as you can see in the Kodi thread, I've just installed those Bravo-HD drivers from Hifime and they don't help. Kodi will even cause dropouts in Foobar in ASIO mode. I have a feeling that if there is a solution, you DAC experts will know it. Has no one but me run the JM20/CS43131 with Kodi? Or is this JM20 defective in a very very specific way?
 
Maybe some kind of bug in Kodi with Savitech usb bridge. I have Jm20 and Sonata BHD but never used Kodi so I can't confirm.
 
Weird that it happens with the generic Windows drivers too. The JM20 works fine with Kodi on my Fire tablet. Are there any currently available cheap CS43131 dongles that don't use the Savitech bridge? Preferably on Amazon?
 
Weird that it happens with the generic Windows drivers too. The JM20 works fine with Kodi on my Fire tablet. Are there any currently available cheap CS43131 dongles that don't use the Savitech bridge? Preferably on Amazon?
The cheaper i can think at the moment is Moondrop Dawn Pro using a Comtrue CT7601 usb bridge.
 
Eh, if I spend ~$50 for the Moondrop for desktop use, I might as well get the SMSL SU-1 for ~$65 (hopefully... during Oct Prime Days) and just sidestep the whole CS43131 thing entirely. I'll keep the JM20 I guess for travel use with the tablet.
 
Eh, if I spend ~$50 for the Moondrop for desktop use, I might as well get the SMSL SU-1 for ~$65 (hopefully... during Oct Prime Days) and just sidestep the whole CS43131 thing entirely.
Maybe consider the E30II Lite for a nice screen, built-in volume control, IR Remote, and selectable Nyquist filter.
 
Interesting, I hadn't seen this. But my use case is just for desktop with headphones and I don't know if I care too much about filters (don't really understand them, honestly) or the remote. The screen would be nice but not sure if it's worth +$40 to me. Right now I am back to using my Scarlett Solo Gen 2 hooked up to my ol' reliable DIY Gilmore Dynalo (Rev C) headphone amp. Here are some specs I found for the Scarlett Solo off a Russian Prosound site:
1727996531984.png

I'm actually not sure how much of a difference a SU-1 or a E30III Lite would make, audibly speaking, compared to the numbers above. I did read somewhere that the distortion can rise as you raise the monitor levels. At least the SU-1 is a cheap solution and I thought the JM20 would be an even cheaper one but no dice.

Edited to add: I have a cheap student discount for Tidal, so I've been keeping my Solo at 24/192 just to cover all sample rates, since I use Peace for EQ and have to pick a single audio format in Windows. I know it probably doesn't make a real difference in sound quality.
 
Eh, if I spend ~$50 for the Moondrop for desktop use, I might as well get the SMSL SU-1 for ~$65 (hopefully... during Oct Prime Days) and just sidestep the whole CS43131 thing entirely. I'll keep the JM20 I guess for travel use with the tablet.

Kuang Pai Player 2

This one claims for pcm 768 KHz support so I assume it's not based on Savitech bridge, maybe Comtrue or that FPGA they advertise on the page.
It's not as cheap as Jm20 but not too much more if you want to try for a different usb bridge.
 
I'll keep an eye on that, thanks. I get the feeling that a better DAC might not actually have any real improvements over the "just OK" specs of the Solo gen 2 so spending the least amount of money on that upgrade makes sense to me. I should maybe replace the Dynalo first.

I did buy a SMSL DL200 off Amazon a couple months ago but when I had to move it around slightly in its temporary location on my desk it would blast static until I restarted it. Happened twice from just shifting it a couple inches (no cable pulling), so I sent it back after auditioning for 29 days. I really only heard a slight improvement with my low ohm IEMs. I'm not sure I could really hear anything different with my full-size headphones. Kinda scared me away from spending real money (for me that means $100+) on Chinese brands. Think I'll just get a JDS Atom at some point down the road and hook that up to a SU-1/Kuang Pai/E30 III Lite/similar.
 
Think I'll just get a JDS Atom at some point down the road and hook that up to a SU-1/Kuang Pai/E30 III Lite/similar.
You could get just an Atom or similar amp (e.g. Sabaj A20h, Topping L30 II or Schiit Magni) and run that off of the Scarlett's headphone out with a stereo 1/4" (or 3.5mm with adapter) to 2x RCA cable, you wouldn't be missing out on much. Going by @Julian Krause's 2i2 gen 2 measurements, you can expect a maximum dynamic range of about 106 dB(A), which is just fine for a line-level source (and, considering that, I would probably keep its output level setting 3-6 dB below undistorted maximum, which should still yield about 105 to 102 dB(A)).

The Dynalo seems decent enough as long as you're not trying to drive planars, I just don't know about output noise level with IEMs given the relatively high gain of 11 (with no explicit loop gain compensation in sight, I would not advise reducing it either). Since the input circuitry ought to be fairly low-noise by itself, you could swap out the feedback network and volume pot to reduce its thermal noise contribution instead:
(each channel)
R27 (10k) --> 2.2k to 3.3k (ish)
R28 (1k) --> R27 / 10, i.e. 220 to 330 ohms (ish)
C6 (10 pF) --> no change (this is only supposed to counteract response peaking due to input capacitance and as such is only a function of desired gain and input capacitance itself)

(both channels)
Volume pot --> 2x 10k log (if previously higher, like 50k or 100k)

Resistors should be 1% 1/4W metal film much like the originals and can be oddball values from higher E-series as well. If you just happen to get a good deal on 274R and 2.74k, by all means.

In light of the substantial out-of-band noise of typical CS4272 implementations, I would also contemplate giving the amp some input lowpass filtering (pre-pot). Here's a passive 5th order 50 kHz inverting Chebychev that this tool spit out:
invcheby50k-full.png

(L: E6, C: E12)

Now I have no idea what kind of inductors are available in this range that would be suitable for the audio band. It would probably be smarter to use a few opamps. I used the Analog Filter Wizard to come up with this 4th order Butterworth with a ca. 29 kHz cutoff:
4thBWAnalogCS4272.png

I used the ADA4625-2 as a substitute for a fairly typical audio opamp. Being the inverting multiple feedback topology, an NE5532 or NJM4580 ought to work fine in this. (R film, C film PP or ceramic NP0.) I won't be surprised if there are finished PCBs out there that could be used, it's hardly an exotic circuit.

Ideally you'd even want a 6th order filter.
 
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Holy crap, that's a lot of great information, thank you. Saved it as a PDF for future use. Unfortunately, I'll have to study up on my electronics to fully understand your advice, as I did not do most of the DIY on that Dynalo. I bought a pre-populated board from the rev C designer, DJ Gardner, who did all the work and helped me finish the case wiring. He set a gain of 4 for me, since I was using Grados at the time (no more!). The schematic is attached if you're curious.

Anyway, this discussion is extremely interesting to me but I suppose it isn't really about CS43131 any more. When I first discovered ASR and all its wonderful measurements, I did post a thread asking how my old Dynalo would hypothetically compare to modern amp designs but didn't get any replies. It's right here, in case you care to reply. But I now have an SU-1 on order (Oct Prime sale $70), and I think I have finally decided to retire the Dynalo after 15 years of wonderful service. I can use it as an electronics project and hopefully learn enough to use those filter designs.
 

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I just got a Jcally JM20 in the mail and it works flawlessly on my computer, but my Android won't recognise it at all, anyone else had any similar problem? I have used other dongles in the past without a problem so don:t understand why this one won't work :(
No problem here with the JM20PRO (also uses CS43131) that I recently bought. Also I don't get clicking sounds like some of the other reports here, maybe because this particular model accepts a microphone input. I also bought the JM80E version, which looks identical but uses ESS ES9280AC. Considering various reviews here it's probably a safe bet that the CS43131 performs better, but one thing I've noticed is that the dongle with the CS43131 gets slightly warmer than the ESS ES9280AC one which leads me to believe that the CS43131 might be slightly less power efficient.
 
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Considering various reviews here it's probably a safe bet that the CS43131 performs better, but one thing I've noticed is that the dongle with the CS43131 gets slightly warmer than the ESS ES9280AC one which leads me to believe that the CS43131 might be slightly less power efficient.
ES9280 is a single chip codec that integrates ussb bridge and ADC for mic input, while JM20Pro needs one or two external chip for those features (depending if they used separate bridge + adc ora an integrated one) that could consume more power and produce more heath, but just my assumptions.

In the meantime I just discovered that they are now selling a new model JM20 Max following the latest trend of coupling the CS43131 with SGM8262 opamp for more ouput power, at the usual bargain price:
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007715348806.html
it would be nice to see measurements and if it suffer of the same heating problems reported by some with the Fiio KA11.
 
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