$500 desktop system for boss

[FrantzM]

Hi

What is the source?
A desktop PC? Mac? How much leeway has he to use his personal computer in a very personal way?

If he has leeway on using his work computer as his personal computer then .. depending on the mother board, PC with a pair of JBL LSR 305 plus the LSR310 sub ..
End of the story. Glorious sound for $500...

P.S. You understand that you need to set it up for him? These things are rarely set-up and forget ...

 

[q3cpma]

Eve SC203, good size for actual computer speakers, nice measurements, nice look and USB input

Genelec 8010A, 8020D, Neumann KH80DSP or iLoud MTM might also me good contenders, but are way more expensive and need a standalone DAC.

 

[bigx5murf]

When its too big for a desk, its too big for a desk.

Have you actually handled a LP-6 or a 306P in the flesh? If you have, please show me how you place them on an actual office working desk.

I'd actually gain a ton of space by going to either. I'm currently using a pair of kef q15 and Infinity lx10, powered by a Sony ta-ax6 and Yamaha mx800 amps.

 

[brachypelma44]

Triangle BR02 Borea speakers are on sale for $279 at Adorama. Pick your finish color
https://www.adorama.com/triborteb34b.html?emailprice=t
https://www.adorama.com/triboreteb34.html?emailprice=t
https://www.adorama.com/triborteb34w.html?emailprice=t
https://www.adorama.com/triborteb34v.html?emailprice=t

I was just about to buy these on Amazon for $449. I was just searching for the model number on here and stumbled across this post. Thank you so much for saving me $170!

 

[raistlin65]

I was just about to buy these on Amazon for $449. I was just searching for the model number on here and stumbled across this post. Thank you so much for saving me $170!

Glad to help.

I tried them in a desktop setup. I thought they were very good for that price and size.

 

[brachypelma44]

Glad to help.

I tried them in a desktop setup. I thought they were very good for that price and size.

I hope I like them...the reviews are mostly positive. I'm replacing the Polk TSi200s on my desk, which have been so-so to me. (I got them for free, so it's hard to complain too much.) Powering them with my old Yamaha HTR-6090 AVR, which was retired to the bedroom due to its lack of HDMI inputs. Also using a Dayton sub, so as long as the mid-range and treble are decent, I'll probably be happy. Hoping it's an upgrade rather than a lateral move. They certainly look cool with the grilles off!

Sorry if I hijacked the thread. Carry on!

 

[tmtomh]

For powered speakers in a nearfield (desktop) setup, just watch out for self-noise/tweeter hiss, and possibly for front ports. I have a pair of AudioEngine A2s (the little ones) and the ports blow air on your hands when you're at the keyboard!

 

[brachypelma44]

Glad to help.

I tried them in a desktop setup. I thought they were very good for that price and size.

They showed up yesterday, and right out of the box, they sound noticeably crisper on things like cymbals/drums, and the voices are clearer compared to the old TSi200s. Once the stands arrive and the speakers break in, it'll be even better. Very happy with them. Thanks again.

 

[raistlin65]

They showed up yesterday, and right out of the box, they sound noticeably crisper on things like cymbals/drums, and the voices are clearer compared to the old TSi200s. Once the stands arrive and the speakers break in, it'll be even better. Very happy with them. Thanks again.

Glad to help.

They really do have a nice sound. I can see why they're becoming so popular.

 

[Trouble Maker]

, then the Apple USB-C dongle

Careful matching is necessary. My experience with the JBL305p didn't mate well with the Apple dongle. I think the JBLs wanted around 2 volts volts (switch set to single ended gain) but max for the Apple dongle is 1v. It was fine with an older (gen 1?) Google dongle and some generic airport one. Sure, sinad is (maybe) lower but getting the speakers over 6x dB SPL is much more critical.

 

[andreasmaaan]

Careful matching is necessary. My experience with the JBL305p didn't mate well with the Apple dongle. I think the JBLs wanted around 2 volts volts (switch set to single ended gain) but max for the Apple dongle is 1v. It was fine with an older (gen 1?) Google dongle and some generic airport one. Sure, sinad is (maybe) lower but getting the speakers over 6x dB SPL is much more critical.

Ok, that's odd. According to the 305P Mk II's owner's manual, its input sensitivity can be set to +4dBu, which corresponds to maximum output at 1.22V input, which is just a shade more power than the Apple dongle is capable of delivering.

 

[Trouble Maker]

Ok, that's odd. According to the 305P Mk II's owner's manual, its input sensitivity can be set to +4dBu, which corresponds to maximum output at 1.22V input, which is just a shade more power than the Apple dongle is capable of delivering.

I think the +4dBu switch is for pro level balanced inputs with even higher voltage, but the documentation and switch marking is confusing at best.

As best I can tell the gain switch marking (-10dBV / +4dBu) is just for some nominal or reference level and not max level, which is also confusing when trying to match components like this.

The manual also says this.

Maximum Continuous SPL: 94 dB*
Maximum Peak SPL: 108dB*
Maximum Peak Input Level (-10dBV / +4dBu): +6dBV / +20.3dBu
Maximum Peak SPL: 108dB*
Input Sensitivity: (-10dBV input) 92dB / 1m

Which as you said would correspond to (0.316V/1.22V): 1.99V/8V

So I believe the -10dBv is for unbalanced/consumer level inputs and takes 1.99V to get to some max SPL. Peak or RMS input to get to continuous or peak SPL would be too random of a guess for me.

But I also can't square my experience with this input sensitivity spec, whatever that means, which they don't specify. But if it's at 1V, I definitely wasn't getting anywhere near 92dB. I guess it could have been some issue with my phone and Apple Dongle not even getting to 1V? It's a Pixel phone, and with some Google dongle and a generic airport special one I had lying around there was no issue going as loud as I would want.

And there is this in the manual too.

INPUT SENSITIVITY SWITCH – Set this switch to +4dBu to protect from overload when connecting to professional equipment and sources with high output level capabilities. Set this switch to -10dBV when connecting to lower-level consumer-grade audio equipment...

3 Series speakers are equipped with an INPUT SENSITIVITY switch, which is set to the -10dBV setting at the factory. This setting will be best for many applications. However, you should set the switch to the +4dBu setting under the following conditions:
• When connecting 3 Series speakers to professional equipment with +4dBu nominal output level. To determine the nominal output level of the connected equipment, consult the documentation supplied with the connected equipment.
• The sound is distorted, even when the speaker VOLUME controls are set to minimum settings

Issue: The signal is distorted.
• Verify the speaker's INPUT SENSITIVITY switch is set to +4dBu. If the distortion persists, even with the speaker's VOLUME control set low, inspect the gain stages throughout the system to determine which circuit in the signal path is being overdriven. Issue:

The signal level is low.
• Ensure the speaker's VOLUME control is turned up. • Try setting the speaker's INPUT SENSITIVITY switch to -10dBV.

And if I'm interpreting the situation correctly, this is only going to get worse due to volume (voltage) limits which are starting to be applied for hearing protection regulation.

 

[andreasmaaan]

I think the +4dBu switch is for pro level balanced inputs with even higher voltage, but the documentation and switch marking is confusing at best.

As best I can tell the gain switch marking (-10dBV / +4dBu) is just for some nominal or reference level and not max level, which is also confusing when trying to match components like this.

The manual also says this.


Which as you said would correspond to (0.316V/1.22V): 1.99V/8V

So I believe the -10dBv is for unbalanced/consumer level inputs and takes 1.99V to get to some max SPL. Peak or RMS input to get to continuous or peak SPL would be too random of a guess for me.

But I also can't square my experience with this input sensitivity spec, whatever that means, which they don't specify. But if it's at 1V, I definitely wasn't getting anywhere near 92dB. I guess it could have been some issue with my phone and Apple Dongle not even getting to 1V?

And there is this in the manual too.


And if I'm interpreting the situation correctly, this is only going to get worse due to volume (voltage) limits which are starting to be applied for hearing protection regulation.

Seems confusing to me too, lol!

Another complicating factor may be that (afaik) in some jurisdictions there are legal limits placed on outputs from mobile audio devices, which could mean your dongle was limited to less than 1V. Something I should keep in mind when recommending the dongle in future..

 

[Trouble Maker]

Seems confusing to me too, lol!

Another complicating factor may be that (afaik) in some jurisdictions there are legal limits placed on outputs from mobile audio devices, which could mean your dongle was limited to less than 1V. Something I should keep in mind when recommending the dongle in future..

Yeah, I think the limits are going to be a mess for anyone with headphones and devices like these that are harder to drive or need higher voltage than whatever the regulation is based off of. They are limiting to a dB, but how do they know that? They are probably limiting to a voltage and inferring what the dB would be based on some assumed headphone load, and knowing how these things usually happen it's probably an easy to drive load to protect for worst case. In practice I would guess that regular consumer products will follow this but somehow 'audiophile' products won't? So that will mean that we won't be able to use inexpensive mass produced dongles for these applications but have to spend more $$ on higher end products.

 

[Darwin]

My boss has significantly contributed to my success this year, so I'm going to hook him up with a desktop stereo system, with an all-in budget (with cables) of $500. He listens to spotify primarily.

I'm still not understanding if a DAC would add value or be unnecessary at such a budget. If not, at what budget is a DAC worthwhile?

Assuming your only limits are a 5" woofer (size) and $500, how do you get the best sound with decent bass?

Thanks!

Spotify is not great sound quality. I would keep it simple and get a Sonos 5.

 

[Darwin]

It's a gift. Even if the boss is an audio person I would hesitate to give paired components and speakers. Simple and nice to use would be the way to go, I think.

Totally agree.

 

[stevenswall]

How into audio is he? Harman Kardon Sounsticks might be more appropriate aesthetic wise and take very, very little desk space.