Just bought them for work. Impressive for the price. Leagues better than anything else available at that price I have tried.
Hello, recently I've bought a pair of Edifier R1280Ts monitors - the one with sub out, but unlike R1280T I can't find frequency response graphics nor EQ presets available to correct the sound they reproduce (feels a little muffled and odd to my ears). I guess they both differ because the frequency response listed is different between them. R1280Ts frequency response range is 52Hz-20KHz, wich resembles more the R1280DB than the T one.
I'm not heavily experienced on these technical matters, so I would like to ask how can I evaluate and flatten the sound through EQ?
P.S.: They also came with the "Soundfield Spacializer" feature, turned by remote control that kinda makes the songs more echoed and in some cases cleaner, but in others it feels weightless and almost completely erases some frequencies. It is very good for games or movies, where it noticeably gives the soundstage a boost and make them feel more 3D.
The photo of the amp board of a closely related model in post #136, your description and the remote control of the volume suggest it's actually digital. The photo shows an ADC and an amp chip that only takes digital input and has onboard DSP and DAC. This is increasingly common even in low cost powered speakers. Most likely the microcontroller on the board reads the rotary encoder used for the volume knob, and the remote control, and sends the message to the amp chip to increase or decrease volume. The tone controls are most likely applied using the DSP in the amp chip too. This probably gives better performance than the analog options to implement remote control would in this price bracket.Is the volume knob not analog on the R1280Ts? They came in the mail today and I noticed they aren't the type to have a start and finish point, but rather turn infinitely and along preset notches. It's my first pair of "good" speakers and I'm a complete noob when it comes to audio. I've heard that one should set the device output volume to 100% and adjust the volume on the speaker itself, but I'm curious if that matters here when the speaker volume doesn't seem to have analog control, unless I'm mistaken and this is still analog.
Is the volume knob not analog on the R1280Ts? They came in the mail today and I noticed they aren't the type to have a start and finish point, but rather turn infinitely and along preset notches. It's my first pair of "good" speakers and I'm a complete noob when it comes to audio. I've heard that one should set the device output volume to 100% and adjust the volume on the speaker itself, but I'm curious if that matters here when the speaker volume doesn't seem to have analog control, unless I'm mistaken and this is still analog.
The PCM9211 ADC datasheet recommends <=3V for the analog inputs with an absolute maximum of 6.5V, and because most single-ended analog outputs top out at around 2V, most devices should be okay set to max. Couldn't hurt to verify, though.The photo of the amp board of a closely related model in post #136, your description and the remote control of the volume suggest it's actually digital. The photo shows an ADC and an amp chip that only takes digital input and has onboard DSP and DAC. This is increasingly common even in low cost powered speakers. Most likely the microcontroller on the board reads the rotary encoder used for the volume knob, and the remote control, and sends the message to the amp chip to increase or decrease volume. The tone controls are most likely applied using the DSP in the amp chip too. This probably gives better performance than the analog options to implement remote control would in this price bracket.
As to the best way to control the volume, the advice to have it high at the device output, and control it on the speaker, is a fair general approach so long as it's not overloading the speaker input. You would have to do some measurements to be sure what's best, but I expect that's not an option. Given that we see some ADCs and device outputs increase distortion significantly at the maximum, but behave much better a fraction lower, I'd probably dial the device output back a fraction if you can.
Do these even have a crossover on the woofer?
Yes, just a single capacitor. Presumably the 22 biquads of speaker EQ in the TAS5713 chip are doing the heavy lifting.Looking at the nearfield per-driver measures... Do these even have a crossover on the woofer? Looks like it just rolls off naturally, breakup modes and all.
edit: Looks like it straight up doesn't have one beyond a cap on the tweeter. I have to wonder how much better performance would be just by putting a couple dollars of passives in this...
What makes you say that? The woofer and tweeter are driven from the same amp channel so the biquads can't be used for crossover, and the response shape doesn't look like something anyone would produce on purpose. I suspect they're using some of them for the tone controls and little else. They could probably take a leaf from Neumi's book and release firmware that gives a much flatter response.Yes, just a single capacitor. Presumably the 22 biquads of speaker EQ in the TAS5713 chip are doing the heavy lifting.
Just a guess based on how DSP is being used in speakers like the JBL LSR305P MkII. I didn't mean to suggest that the DSP was being used for the crossover here. I guess it's true that with access to that many biquads a better FR result should be achievable, and with speakers at this price point there's likely individual QC variation to overcome too.What makes you say that? The woofer and tweeter are driven from the same amp channel so the biquads can't be used for crossover, and the response shape doesn't look like something anyone would produce on purpose. I suspect they're using some of them for the tone controls and little else. They could probably take a leaf from Neumi's book and release firmware that gives a much flatter response.
-2 treble and -4 bass will seem to make the 1700 rather flat, bar that dip from 1.5k - 3k. What settings did you finally settle with without the use of an external eq?Just bought R1700BT for 82USD. I saw a few measurement online
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View attachment 87291
both FR are from here and here <- (thanks)
The FR aligned with what I heard from online demo. kinda U sound with OK mids
and here's the effect of Treble / Bass knob on the FR. When both are tuned to lowest and EQ the dip in 1-2k, it looks promising to me.
Will received the speaker in 2-3 days and then we'll see. Won't held my breath on how it sounds just replacing my 15 years old Altec speaker for youtube / streaming .
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Hi,
I just implemented a routine to automatically export the EQ I design as APO/Peace config file.
I suggest you use Peace on top of EQ APO:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/peace-equalizer-apo-extension/
You just need to import the file as @sweetchaos (thanks for pointing the info) shows here :
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...s-community-project.14929/page-14#post-536526
I have attached a the config file to import.
Note that there is an automatically generated Preamp gain that is based on the actual peak gain of the EQ rounded up for a tiny bit of headroom.
Definitely. For the R series, get the 1850/1855 if possible or the new 2850 if you are in Russia or Malaysia.In my country, the 1280db, r1700bt both go for nearly the same price. 1280t are not available. Is 1700t a good choice? Is it an upgrade over the edifier 1280t/db?
The S series (S2000Pro and the superior S2000MKII) is definitely way ahead of the R series. If you can get the S2000MKII for that price, you can rest assure that you have onr of the best Edifiers to date. What I like about the R1700BTS and R1850DB/R1855DB is the sub out option, they dont have it on the S series. If you dont mind not having a sub out and can afford it, go for the S series.I can get the db2000 for just 50 usd extra over the r1700bts. Basically 135 usd for the r1700bts and about 190usd for db2000. I am really not sure how good the db2000 is over the r1700bts.