Yes, had the same issues using wifi...now I have the unit hardwired for hires.Managed to use an old Android phone to set it up. Then could use my iPhone to connect via DTS app after that.
But sometimes even though the light is solid white the app doesn't connect to the device. Other times during playback it spins saying trying to connect. Is that a common thing with this device?
Just Tidal. If I hardwire will need to buy a power line adapter which is a bit of a pain.Yes, had the same issues using wifi...now I have the unit hardwired for hires.
What are you trying to play? I find it is better to use Bubbleupnp app to stream local DLNA, qobuz, tidal to the device instead, but don't think it's available in apple. I also have better luck with hires using the playfi app and select transfer playback to allow the device to stream directly, like chromecast.
That's a judgment call. If you don't mind using your phone and the playFi app as the remote control for volume, you can do that.
I found that to be cumbersome. App loses connection a lot, etc. And if there are other people wanting to control the volume, they have to fire up an app to do that. Changing inputs is a hassle, etc.
There are buttons on the device of course, but you are asking about remote controls, so I assume walking over to the device is not convenient. (I know, in my room, it is not convenient.)
So I went the route of an external DAC with a remote control. This was I can use it like a regular stereo, leave the playFI unit at unity gain, and on a single input.
Of course, that whole single input thing becomes more complicated if you have multiple sources. Again, you have to walk over and manually switch inputs to be most reliable.
(Ironic that this amazing little device is missing those two key features: Remote control for volume and source selection. If it had those, it might have actually been a hit and would still be in production instead of these companies selling off the gear at 50% of MSRP to deplete their inventory.)
Doesn't cost much to improve on the mediocre internal DAC. I use RME, Schitt and Topping DACs in my three systems.Just Tidal. If I hardwire will need to buy a power line adapter which is a bit of a pain.
Subjective, but are folks using an external DAC with these units or with ARC is the sound good enough?
Just wondering how many conversions I need. Right now I have the Unison going into my Subwoofer which performs bass management and then out from the sub to the SMSL AO200. Not sure if adding a DAC would cause more harm than good? Would it go between the subwoofer and AO200 or between the Unison and subwoofer?Doesn't cost much to improve on the mediocre internal DAC. I use RME, Schitt and Topping DACs in my three systems.
You're not adding a conversion by substituting an external DAC for the DAC in the Unison (assuming Unison --DAC--sub amp--main amp in your case). I have subs in all three systems no problem.Just wondering how many conversions I need. Right now I have the Unison going into my Subwoofer which performs bass management and then out from the sub to the SMSL AO200. Not sure if adding a DAC would cause more harm than good? Would it go between the subwoofer and AO200 or between the Unison and subwoofer?
Maybe something like the Topping E30? Guess it would have to be Unison to E30 out to subwoofer (SVS SB13 Ultra) then to AO200?
You're not adding a conversion by substituting an external DAC for the DAC in the Unison (assuming Unison --DAC--sub amp--main amp in your case). I have subs in all three systems no problem.
Sure. Toslink is your only digital output.Is the SMSL SU6 a decent choice to match? Love the internal power supply. Also, is there a preferred way to connect (toslink, RCA, USB)?
Sure. Toslink is your only digital output.
Yes you are bypassing the internal DAC for a more accurate, less distorted conversion to analog.I’m a newb with DACs. So by sending it via toslink are you only sending the raw signal and therefore bypassing the DAC of the Unison/Link?
I know @amirm mentioned listening to the unit with ARC was a pleasure and hides any problem with the “broken DAC” so curious what adding the external DAC does to help?
Update - I think my unit may be dying. I started having issues getting sound at all, and when I reboot, everything is down-sampled again for a bit. I think when I was seeing higher resolutions, the unit was just passing through the signal directly to my DAC without applying room correction etc.So my Martin Logan got a firmware update last time I opened the playfi app and today I noticed that the unit appears to be putting out a 96khz signal to my DAC for the first time (instead of always down-sampling to a max of 48khz). I am also getting tracks at 88.2khz. Definitely doesn't seem like a glitch. Has anyone else noticed this or can reproduce? I don't see anything that this was intentional or should be the case, but it seems to be what is happening.
I have TIDAL signal going to the digital in of the Unison and the Unison goes digital out to my SMSL DAC.
This issue may have happened with that last firmware update. Why don’t you contact Martin Logan Support and ask for their advice. That Unison also has a two year warranty.Update - I think my unit may be dying. I started having issues getting sound at all, and when I reboot, everything is down-sampled again for a bit. I think when I was seeing higher resolutions, the unit was just passing through the signal directly to my DAC without applying room correction etc.