Yamaha RX-596 Receiver Review

[mhardy6647]

Thanks for pointing that out! I think/hope the caps are still OK since the buzz wouldn't be heard below about 8 and higher than 3 o' clock.
In any case, following the "band fix" above, the amp is devoid of any noises (with the sources set to digital). Left/right channels sound level, too.

Only toward max volume can you hear the, expected, faint "white noise" over the headphones (not sure what the proper term for that is - I suppose it's the amplifier's "pure" distortion at high volume?)

It's a bit of a gem this amplifier. To say nothing about the Elacs

It's noise, not distortion per se. Thus do folks around here talk SINAD as opposed to s/n.
I've always been under the impression that such noise in solid state circuits is shot noise -- but I'm a biochemist, not a physicist.

 

[Pilot]

(At the risk of derailing the thread briefly) I did some googling to educate myself and shot noise is, indeed, a component!
Also, I found your "per se" qualification intriguing - technically the actual noise might also be phase distorted? (I suppose that would make it "better"/dithered, noise if it weren't enough already? haha)

 

[spiral scratch]

Thanks for the review and comments. I just picked one up for $25 CAD including an aftermarket remote battery included. Aside from a small discrepency in the volume pot at the low end which seems to be getting better with use it's working great. I needed a receiver so this is a pretty sweet sounding deal.

I was web searching for info on this receiver and found your review which kind of sealed the deal for me.

 

[seanhyatt]

I just bought a RX-595 at goodwill for $14. It seems to be the exact same unit as the RX-596 except for THD. Sounds great.

RX-596: 0.025 THD at 8 ohms 0.05 6 ohms
RX-595 0.019 THD at 8 ohms 0.038 6 ohms

 

[petebone]

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I picked the RX-596 for $40 today and this thing is blowing my mind. I have had similar models like the RX-350 and the 385 but this beast just sounds a lot fuller. I am quite happy.

 

[Doodski]

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I picked the RX-596 for $40 today and this thing is blowing my mind. I have had similar models like the RX-350 and the 385 but this beast just sounds a lot fuller. I am quite happy.

Yes, it's a ToP ART design that started in the I guess early 90s. It does sound better.

Yamaha Electronics Amplifier Technologies feature high sound quality

Yamaha Electronics Amplifier Technologies feature high sound quality

www.yamaha.com

 

[seanhyatt]

Welcome to the club.
I started with the RX-595 and worked up to the RX-797. On all of this era models the CD direct input performers at audiophile levels.

 

[petebone]

Welcome to the club.
I started with the RX-595 and worked up to the RX-797. On all of this era models the CD direct input performers at audiophile levels.

I am noticing a little bit of a difference with CD Direct but I need to mess with it more.

 

[Doodski]

I am noticing a little bit of a difference with CD Direct but I need to mess with it more.

It's not just the CD direct that sounds better. The amp in no CD direct mode sounds better than most of the competition. I was able to compare 40 models in a sound room when they where new models and the ToP ART stuff just sounds better. If one likes a little tiny bit warmer sound the Harmon Kardons of that day had that but who knows if it sounds better. The choices made where for the RX-596.

 

[violao]

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I picked the RX-596 for $40 today and this thing is blowing my mind. I have had similar models like the RX-350 and the 385 but this beast just sounds a lot fuller. I am quite happy.

I picked mine up from Facebook Marketplace for $30 about 6 years ago. I needed it as a replacement amp for my main audio 2.0 system in my den/dinning room because it had a phono preamp for my ProJect Debut III turntable. I thought 80-watts would do a decent job driving my entry model Vandersteen Model 1B towers. I was doubly delighted that it received such love and empirical good measurements here. I had procured it from some young Millennial gal who just did not really value its quality. The kids are all going with SONOS lifestyle speakers and do not appreciate real Hi-Fi. Or perhaps she just bought a lesser modern HTR with surround. Either way, I could not believe my dumb luck. I found the somewhat rare OEM remote for $20 on eBay because I am an obsessive completist.

Then my very old (1985?) Kenwood AVR failed in the living room. I then found a Yamaha HTR-5640 100-watt 6.1 HTR for $35 on Craigslist $35. Meeting the dude in a Safeway parking lot, I jked that this feels like a Hi-Fi drugs deal, lol. This HTR being a little bit older also has a phono preamp, and a decent DAC built-in too. I stuck an old Apple TV (3rd gen) with optical audio output. I then moved the RX-596 to the living room for audio/video 2.0 duty. It powers my old crappy Bose 301-II with even more authority than the old Kenwood 100-watt. I use an older Sony DVD as a CD transport that also uses the built-in DAC for playback. Now I can stream my iTunes library via Apple Airplay to the living room Apple TV or the den Apple TV (3rd gen). Or I can also stream from any of my iPhones into either Zone.

My next moves? I dream of upgrading to some used Rotel separates on my main 2.0 audio system, but that would also mean buying an external DAC like a Schitt. Either a 130-watt or a 200-watt amp with a far beefier power supply running A/B design would give me far more bass control at moderate volume, and ideally far more resolution too, but jumping from Mid-Fi to entry Hi-Fi is a leap I have yet to make. It will be interesting to hear the difference in that upgrade, however, I imagine that I might be possibly disappointed with the value for money. We shall see... Either way, thrifting used Audio is super high value. Take it from a dude who used to sell Audio Video about 40-years ago. The tech might change, but the basic principles in electrical engineering do not.

In closing, we robbed the bank. I have seen our receivers going for about $80-100 all in on eBay. The ranking here has helped push the ask price up for those who know, but those who do not? Game on!

Happy thrifting Pete!

 

[petebone]

It's not just the CD direct that sounds better. The amp in no CD direct mode sounds better than most of the competition. I was able to compare 40 models in a sound room when they were new models and the ToP ART stuff just sounds better. If one likes a little tiny bit warmer sound the Harmon Kardons of that day had that but who knows if it sounds better. The choices made were for the RX-596

This all just makes my $40 purchase worth it.

 

[Doodski]

This all just makes my $40 purchase worth it.

Oh yeah! You have a good one and a good deal too.

 

[SMc]

This makes the $19 TX-v596 buy-it-now at shopgoodwill look tempting.

Used Yamaha Model RX-V596 A/V Receiver

shopgoodwill.com

Too bad I don’t need another old amp.

 

[petebone]

I picked mine up from Facebook Marketplace for $30 about 6 years ago. I needed it as a replacement amp for my main audio 2.0 system in my den/dinning room because it had a phono preamp for my ProJect Debut III turntable. I thought 80-watts would do a decent job driving my entry model Vandersteen Model 1B towers. I was doubly delighted that it received such love and empirical good measurements here. I had procured it from some young Millennial gal who just did not really value its quality. The kids are all going with SONOS lifestyle speakers and do not appreciate real Hi-Fi. Or perhaps she just bought a lesser modern HTR with surround. Either way, I could not believe my dumb luck. I found the somewhat rare OEM remote for $20 on eBay because I am an obsessive completist.

Then my very old (1985?) Kenwood AVR failed in the living room. I then found a Yamaha HTR-5640 100-watt 6.1 HTR for $35 on Craigslist $35. Meeting the dude in a Safeway parking lot, I jked that this feels like a Hi-Fi drugs deal, lol. This HTR being a little bit older also has a phono preamp, and a decent DAC built-in too. I stuck an old Apple TV (3rd gen) with optical audio output. I then moved the RX-596 to the living room for audio/video 2.0 duty. It powers my old crappy Bose 301-II with even more authority than the old Kenwood 100-watt. I use an older Sony DVD as a CD transport that also uses the built-in DAC for playback. Now I can stream my iTunes library via Apple Airplay to the living room Apple TV or the den Apple TV (3rd gen). Or I can also stream from any of my iPhones into either Zone.

My next moves? I dream of upgrading to some used Rotel separates on my main 2.0 audio system, but that would also mean buying an external DAC like a Schitt. Either a 130-watt or a 200-watt amp with a far beefier power supply running A/B design would give me far more bass control at moderate volume, and ideally far more resolution too, but jumping from Mid-Fi to entry Hi-Fi is a leap I have yet to make. It will be interesting to hear the difference in that upgrade, however, I imagine that I might be possibly disappointed with the value for money. We shall see... Either way, thrifting used Audio is super high value. Take it from a dude who used to sell Audio Video about 40-years ago. The tech might change, but the basic principles in electrical engineering do not.

In closing, we robbed the bank. I have seen our receivers going for about $80-100 all in on eBay. The ranking here has helped push the ask price up for those who know, but those who do not? Game on!

Happy thrifting Pete!

Ugh. I think I spoke too soon. I was listening to a CD and when I turned the volume down, the music sounded muffled. It came back to normal in a few seconds but this stinks.

 

[riker1384]

Ugh. I think I spoke too soon. I was listening to a CD and when I turned the volume down, the music sounded muffled. It came back to normal in a few seconds but this stinks.

It might just be a potentiometer that needs cleaning. In the meantime, if you turn the amp off and turn the knob back and forth a number of times, it might improve things a bit.

I've heard conflicting advice on what to use to clean pots. Some people say to use Caig DeOxit D5. Others say it will harm the pot. The same seems to be true of every product. Does anyone know for sure? Are there any electronics technicians here?

 

[Doodski]

It might just be a potentiometer that needs cleaning. In the meantime, if you turn the amp off and turn the knob back and forth a number of times, it might improve things a bit.

I've heard conflicting advice on what to use to clean pots. Some people say to use Caig DeOxit D5. Others say it will harm the pot. The same seems to be true of every product. Does anyone know for sure? Are there any electronics technicians here?

Cleaning pots is always a risk especially plastic pots. There are plastic safe cleaner lubricants available that work on metal type pots too.
Do not use NuTrol ... It works well but the pots get stiff after half a year or more and it's annoying.
Let me see if I can round up a schematic for the RX-596 and I'll check out some stuff before any cleaner lub is squirted in places.

Eating lunch and need maybe 20 minutes.

 

[Doodski]

The VR301 appears to be a 100 k Ohm pot for the volume control. So you can go ahead and squirt contact cleaner and lubricant in it.
If you need a service manual try here or if not then I can email a copy of mine. Private me and we'll do it.

Loading…

www.hifiengine.com

 

[petebone]

The VR301 appears to be a 100 k Ohm pot for the volume control. So you can go ahead and squirt contact cleaner and lubricant in it.
If you need a service manual try here or if not then I can email a copy of mine. Private me and we'll do it.

Loading…

www.hifiengine.com

I opened 596 up and I have to idea where to squirt the Deoxit, especially where the potentiometer is located. Someone mentioned that it may have been the CD Direct that was causing the issue so I am not turning it on and seeing what happens.

 

[Doodski]

I opened 596 up and I have to idea where to squirt the Deoxit, especially where the potentiometer is located. Someone mentioned that it may have been the CD Direct that was causing the issue so I am not turning it on and seeing what happens.

Can you snap some pictures of the front panel area inside of the unit so I can see what you are facing?

 

[mhardy6647]

I opened 596 up and I have to idea where to squirt the Deoxit, especially where the potentiometer is located. Someone mentioned that it may have been the CD Direct that was causing the issue so I am not turning it on and seeing what happens.

Being preternaturally lazy I take a very brute force towards cleaning 'sealed' or hard to access (in terms of their innards) pots and switches.
Mind you, I am NOT SUGGESTING this is a best practice!
There is (almost) always a seam or discontinuity of some sort on any massmarket potentiometer. Cleaners like DeOxit D5 are very mobile due to the solvents used in their formulation. Using a very (!) gentle trigger finger, I try to just drizzle a little D5 (or whatever fluid) at the point of the discontinuity. Don't flood it! Work the pot (or switch) and, ideally, give it a use test after cleaning up excess and waiting a wee bit. If it's improved, repeat.
I've almost always effected at least incremental improvement with this gambit -- but I am STILL just sayin', not recommendin'!