Sure,. but I have a 20 foot run to make on my right side. The room is split by an entry way. I'm going to try and get it on the other side, but where I sit, I won;t be directly inbetween the speakers. If it weren't for that 20 foot one way run (40 feet out and back), it would only be like 8' one way.
What speaker wire doesn't? I'm confused.
LOL, nice. might as well use solid core.I'm an outlier:
My speakers go below 2 ohms up high.
My speaker wire is 2AWG THHN since I had it, and the terminals, and both the speakers and amplifiers can accept it.
For no reason other than I could (and did). It all came from my scrap box.
They're not flexible, and there's no need for them to be.
Those are 1/2 inch (13mm) nuts for scale.
You should use x2.
Just saying you're overthinking it.
Checked Home Depot today and their wire is not out of sight. it's actually cheaper on Amazon. Their 16 AWG lamp cord use to be really cheap, like 25 cents a foot.. Now they want 70 cents a foot for it. I can get copper 16/2 marine wire on Amazon 100' for 25 bucks. From what I have read, a 16 AWG copper wire for 40 feet (total length or 20' each way) or less is more than adequate for 4 or 8 ohm. The decibel loss would be under 0.4dB for 8 Ohms and .8 dB for 4 Ohms, generally. Unless I'm missing something, at least according to this Audioholics chart. The chart is for 8 Ohms so /2 for 4 Ohms, but still, unless I'm missing something, 16 Gauge is fine. I mean I can't hear (for 4 Ohms) 0.8 dB difference on a one way 20' run using 16 guage:
Yeah, prices are bananas!
Wish I didn't have a body to maintain in these times.
Ha! Yeah..
Aren’t you afraid that you may cause a shortage with this type of binding?I'm an outlier:
My speakers go below 2 ohms up high.
My speaker wire is 2AWG THHN since I had it, and the terminals, and both the speakers and amplifiers can accept it.
For no reason other than I could (and did). It all came from my scrap box.
They're not flexible, and there's no need for them to be.
Those are 1/2 inch (13mm) nuts for scale.
With his amps the fear would be melting everything down if there is a short. It does appear his connections are rather sturdy.
And Monoprice
His chart is fine for most purposes. But if you own one of those amps (Benchmark AHB2, NCORE, Purifi etc) with high DF, and are a believer in extreme DF, it will be best to increase the wire gauge. See the Benchmark link in post #6, for example.
He says his maximum length is "based on the resistance of the speaker wire not exceeding 5% of the rated impedance of the system", so not a very tough threshold. That is why the max lengths are so long. I guess any threshold you choose is somewhat arbitrary, but I think most here wouldn't want more than a couple/few tenths of a dB deviation in frequency response because of wire resistance. If you plug the maximum values in that table into the Benchmark spreadsheet you will get more deviation than that for most speakers.
How does that particularly matter, tho?
Oh F-it! That's why I have decided to go with this! Then I'm going to solder it directly to the speaker terminal outs and the amplifier posts. Yeah!?
Maybe because of different applications somewhat. Cars usually need lower impedance setup.Oh F-it! That's why I have decided to go with this! Then I'm going to solder it directly to the speaker terminal outs and the amplifier posts. Yeah!?
Seriously, though, did he do that because he knows you won't hear any difference?
