So my Focal Aria 948 is dead

[delta76]

I need to ask again, is this a brand new speaker that was broken right out of the box?

Yes. I bought from France so return could be very problematic. i had a couple of bad days so it does not really matter now (maybe it will tomorrow)

 

[cavedriver]

Agree with MAB. If you've really opened it up then metering is essential. After replacing the woofers on my Snell's, which included replacing some crossover components, they worked fine for a bit until one of the rear tweeters cut out. I thought I had blown it so I started taking things out after ordering the parts only to discover that one of the builder's original solder joints on the tweeter had become disconnected. I had probably stressed it while manipulating the crossover connections. A little soldering and I was back up but now with a replacement set of tweeters in reserve.

 

[cavedriver]

No, you can see the two screws in the Russian video too. Terminals cups are typically so easy to remove, and do not need a specific trim ring removal tools. And the problem isn't likely on the driver side...
View attachment 211633

It's hard to tell in the images but I believe from another image that those are just the "+" and "-" symbols inside little circles and not actual screw heads. Plus, if think about it, screws in those locations would not be good spots for securing the cup.

 

[MAB]

I borrowed a ohmmeter now. I believe that in EU we have the right to repair, so if I open up to take a look it does not void warranty.

I could be very wrong though

Very good. Careful about cosmetic damage... Don't want to make your life more complicated.
You should first measure the resistance of the terminal cups to see if they are ~8 Ohms DC resistance. If the resistance is zero or low, then there is a short. If the resistance is out of range, there is an open.

It's hard to tell in the images but I believe from another image that those are just the "+" and "-" symbols inside little circles and not actual screw heads. Plus, if think about it, screws in those locations would not be good spots for securing the cup.

Yeah, as I squint, I think you are right, no screws!

 

[MAB]

It's hard to tell in the images but I believe from another image that those are just the "+" and "-" symbols inside little circles and not actual screw heads. Plus, if think about it, screws in those locations would not be good spots for securing the cup.

As cavedriver said, those are not screws!!! They are the plus and minus terminal markings...

But, before you do anything, this is where you would start your investigation, with an Ohmmeter!

 

[delta76]

Very good. Careful about cosmetic damage... Don't want to make your life more complicated.
You should first measure the resistance of the terminal cups to see if they are ~8 Ohms DC resistance. If the resistance is zero or low, then there is a short. If the resistance is out of range, there is an open.

Yeah, as I squint, I think you are right, no screws!

I can guarantee it looks as good as new

The resistance should be without the wire? Right

 

[MAB]

I can guarantee it looks as good as new

The resistance should be without the wire? Right

Yes, resistance of the speaker at the terminals, without the speaker cable hooked up to your amp.

 

[MAB]

Yes, resistance of the speaker at the terminals, without the speaker cable hooked up to your amp.

First, measure the resistance across the terminals.

You should see around 8 Ohms in your case (this is a 6 Ohm speaker I am measuring).

A reading close to zero is bad (I shorted the terminals to simulate a potential problem):

So is an open (will be an out of range measurement on your ammeter). You can compare to your known good speaker! Compare, compare, compare!!!

 

[Balle Clorin]

I borrowed a ohmmeter now. I believe that in EU we have the right to repair, so if I open up to take a look it does not void warranty.

I could be very wrong though

Yes you are wrong…very wrong…

 

[delta76]

Yes you are wrong…very wrong…

Well, no turning back now .

 

[delta76]

First, measure the resistance across the terminals.
View attachment 211642

You should see around 8 Ohms in your case (this is a 6 Ohm speaker I am measuring).

A reading close to zero is bad (I shorted the terminals to simulate a potential problem):
View attachment 211643
So is an open (will be an out of range measurement on your ammeter). You can compare to your known good speaker! Compare, compare, compare!!!

Both working and broken one are showing 0ohm now. I made sure the multimeter is not broken...

 

[EAXAE]

Well, no turning back now .

Rooting for you
I'm positive it's a minor issue you'll be able to fix yourself.

 

[itz_all_about_the_music]

Before you start taking them apart, you should measure the resistance with an Ohmmeter. Measure first!!!
In fact, it is unlikely that you should remove the drivers given the description of your problem. If there is a connection problem, it is likely on the binding post, not on the driver(s). There is one binding post, and four drivers, so it would have to be something that affected all drivers. Plus, you really don't want to mess with the trim rings unless you have to.
From your description, it may be that the wire from the binding posts to the crossover became disconnected. If so, looks like you can remove the terminal cups with a couple screws and get to the wires that way.

But, measure first before you start to tear into these. And, get some help.

"Measure first"?? Heck NO. Do what so many here recommend - just start tearing the thing apart. Better yet, don't even think of measuring impedence at the binding posts on BOTH units (oh, but gee, that might allow actually learning somethin). And when a wall socket doesn't seem to be powering that table lamp, just stick a metal fork in the neighboring socket.

YES. Measure first.

 

[delta76]

Rooting for you
I'm positive it's a minor issue you'll be able to fix yourself.

In worst case I will have a broken beautiful speaker (not to my wife's eyes however). I can sell it for parts, probably. And wait for a deep discount to order a replacement.
Keeping positive attitude obviously. No time to grieving and regretting now

 

[tvih]

Yes you are wrong…very wrong…

Opening it in itself does in no way void the warranty.

 

[Timcognito]

My friend killed his Focals with a Crown Amplifier or that's what tech people at Focal told him. They got him to change to a Cambridge amp (don't tell Amir). They were helpful and sold him a discounted mid-range speaker that he installed himself. Give them a call you might get some help.

 

[EAXAE]

In worst case I will have a broken beautiful speaker (not to my wife's eyes however). I can sell it for parts, probably. And wait for a deep discount to order a replacement.
Keeping positive attitude obviously. No time to grieving and regretting now

Most likely there's a problem with the wiring between a post and a crossover — speaker wouldn't be silent otherwise. Contact any local repair shop and they'll fix it in no time

 

[delta76]

Opening it in itself does in no way void the warranty.

Who to trust now lol

My friend killed his Focals with a Crown Amplifier or that's what tech people at Focal told him. They got him to change to a Cambridge amp (don't tell Amir). They were helpful and sold him a discounted mid-range speaker that he installed himself. Give them a call you might get some help.

Hey Amir, this post right here

Now I have another problem. The "good" one actually has no bass. i was too focused on the "working" part so only now I realize it only has mid and treble. But that could be a problem with the receiver...

 

[delta76]

Trying to take a break now ( quite exhausted actually), but without getting too emotional I want to say I love and hate this forum.

Hate it because you guys got me into this hifi non sense (God forbid). Love it because you guys are also so caring, supportive and helpful.

Have a great day/evening/whatever everyone <3

 

[changer]

If there are no visible clues left on the speaker of you short inspection, return it and let the dealer handle it.