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So my Focal Aria 948 is dead

delta76

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I got a temporary receiver (onkyo nr809) today, unbox my second Focal aria 948, connect them. To my surprise and sadness, only one 948 (the one that I unboxed one week ago) plays music. The new one is dead silent. I tried to switch output, switch the wire. Still nothing.
It is very likely it is DOA. But there is anything left I can check?
 

cavedriver

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pop a driver out (or the terminal cup/plate if there is one) and look for a loose connection (if you're brave and don't want to wait for a warranty replacement)
 
OP
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delta76

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pop a driver out (or the terminal cup/plate if there is one) and look for a loose connection (if you're brave and don't want to wait for a warranty replacement)
I am desperate so I might do that, only if I know how to pop a driver out :(
 
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Sorry to hear that.
There is a Russian (?) on youtube that modified the 948. Couldn't find it myself.
Perhaps someone else knows him.
If I remember correctly he shows how he opened the speaker.
 

cavedriver

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I am desperate so I might do that, only if I know how to pop a driver out :(
Looks like the drivers have trim rings. For some manufacturers those just pop out using a plastic knife tool or bodywork prybar, but they could also require a rotation or some other trick. As mentioned above, if you can, find where someone has already opened them.
Sorry to hear that.
There is a Russian (?) on youtube that modified the 948. Couldn't find it myself.
Perhaps someone else knows him.
If I remember correctly he shows how he opened the speaker.
Yup, maybe this video? Drivers are definitely screwed into the cabinet under those trim rings, but no detail in video on how to remove the rings unfortunately (nor any details on how this interesting mod was developed or how to copy):
 

cavedriver

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looks like the terminal cup is clipped in such that you have to release it from the inside so the way in is definitely through the drivers.
 

MAB

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Before you start taking them apart, you should measure the resistance with an Ohmmeter. Measure first!!!
In fact, it is unlikely that you should remove the drivers given the description of your problem. If there is a connection problem, it is likely on the binding post, not on the driver(s). There is one binding post, and four drivers, so it would have to be something that affected all drivers. Plus, you really don't want to mess with the trim rings unless you have to.
From your description, it may be that the wire from the binding posts to the crossover became disconnected. If so, looks like you can remove the terminal cups with a couple screws and get to the wires that way.
2PAUkOz__65942.1572557002.jpg



But, measure first before you start to tear into these. And, get some help.
 

cavedriver

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Before you start taking them apart, you should measure the resistance with an Ohmmeter. Measure first!!!
In fact, it is unlikely that you should remove the drivers given the description of your problem. If there is a connection problem, it is likely on the binding post, not on the driver(s). There is one binding post, and four drivers, so it would have to be something that affected all drivers. Plus, you really don't want to mess with the trim rings unless you have to.
From your description, it may be that the wire from the binding posts to the crossover became disconnected. If so, looks like you can remove the terminal cups with a couple screws and get to the wires that way.
2PAUkOz__65942.1572557002.jpg



But, measure first before you start to tear into these. And, get some help.
I don't see any screws on that cup unless they are under the sticker. The Russian video shows the cup from the inside and it appears to be secured to the speaker cabinet with a couple large plastic clips. When working on speakers it's common to remove a driver first to access the rest of the speaker, including the back of the terminal cup. I wouldn't necessarily expect a disconnection at one of the drivers, it's just the best way to get inside the speaker. On my Snell's the 8" driver is the only way to get inside for work on the wiring. That said, the drivers in those videos use very large gold plated connection posts that almost look like they are sprung- very strange for being "inside" an OEM speaker, and if sprung, a great candidate for a loose wire.

I of course agree its much better to let the return process take care of it, but again, if you're handy and really want to risk it, it probably is a loose wire.
 

AlexanderM

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You did connect it to the side that's working, yes? Just to check that. I would be listening to those saying, do not mess with a brand new speaker, go with the warranty.
 
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delta76

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I did open it up, against my best judgement. found nothing obviously wrong.
You did connect it to the side that's working, yes? Just to check that.
Yes I tried that. Obviously not the avr fault
 

MAB

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I don't see any screws on that cup unless they are under the sticker. The Russian video shows the cup from the inside and it appears to be secured to the speaker cabinet with a couple large plastic clips. When working on speakers it's common to remove a driver first to access the rest of the speaker, including the back of the terminal cup. I wouldn't necessarily expect a disconnection at one of the drivers, it's just the best way to get inside the speaker. On my Snell's the 8" driver is the only way to get inside for work on the wiring. That said, the drivers in those videos use very large gold plated connection posts that almost look like they are sprung- very strange for being "inside" an OEM speaker, and if sprung, a great candidate for a loose wire.

I of course agree its much better to let the return process take care of it, but again, if you're handy and really want to risk it, it probably is a loose wire.
No, you can see the two screws in the Russian video too. Terminals cups are typically so easy to remove, and do not need a specific trim ring removal tools. And the problem isn't likely on the driver side...
1654707677976.png
 

MAB

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I did open it up, against my best judgement. found nothing obviously wrong.

Yes I tried that. Obviously not the avr fault
What are you looking for? Are you looking with an Ohmmeter? If not, you should be using a device to measure resistance here... Many electrical problems can't be debugged visually alone, although looking is certainly the first thing to do. That being said, it is unlikely every driver is blown on this speaker, and it is unlikely that both crossover boards both blown. Likely this is the wire on the terminal cup becoming disconnected!!! So you need to get to the terminal cup (either through the big hole you opened up by removing a driver, or by removing the terminal cup. I do recommend an Ohmmeter to help actually establish where the electrical fault is. Since you already went down the path of doing this without the help of the dealer or Focal, you should arm yourself up with the proper tool for the job.
 
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delta76

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What are you looking for? Are you looking with an Ohmmeter? If not, you should be using a device to measure resistance here... Many electrical problems can't be debugged visually alone, although looking is certainly the first thing to do. That being said, it is unlikely every driver is blown on this speaker, and it is unlikely that both crossover boards both blown. Likely this is the wire on the terminal cup becoming disconnected!!! So you need to get to the terminal cup (either through the big hole you opened up by removing a driver, or by removing the terminal cup. I do recommend an Ohmmeter to help actually establish where the electrical fault is. Since you already went down the path of doing this without the help of the dealer or Focal, you should arm yourself up with the proper tool for the job.
I borrowed a ohmmeter now. I believe that in EU we have the right to repair, so if I open up to take a look it does not void warranty.

I could be very wrong though :)
 
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