So called engine fuel additives - are all snake oil (or not)?

[Doodski]

Anyone want to discuss radiator stop leak?

I do because I've seen it used repetitively in a Jeep pickup truck radiator and it worked but it always seeped out of the cracks and then my father would drop in another tube and off we go again. He was a busy guy with the farm and as a industrial firefighter paramedic so I never held it against him but when I got to driving and had cars I simply had the radiators replaced and was done with it.

For years I drove a MG Midget. I over did the build orders to the machinist and ended up with 200 pound compression across all 4 cylinders. I had to dump in 1 bottle of 107 octane boost per tank of fuel to prevent the extreme run-on that near caused the car to drive away while I was not sitting in it. The mechanic that I eventually found that was great and made my car a excellent daily driver did the old school method and hand made a extra thick copper head gasket and that solved the compression issue. Installed a extra high capacity radiator for the overheating issue and tuned it so that it passed the air-care pollution regulations. The octane boost 107 stuff worked very very well.

 

[Blumlein 88]

I do because I've seen it used repetitively in a Jeep pickup truck radiator and it worked but it always seeped out of the cracks and then my father would drop in another tube and off we go again. He was a busy guy with the farm and as a industrial firefighter paramedic so I never held it against him but when I got to driving and had cars I simply had the radiators replaced and was done with it.

Now you've done it. There are the different schools of what type stop leak is good, and the heretics who will say none of them. Or Model T's using oatmeal.

For years I drove a MG Midget. I over did the build orders to the machinist and ended up with 200 pound compression across all 4 cylinders. I had to dump in 1 bottle of 107 octane boost per tank of fuel to prevent the extreme run-on that near caused the car to drive away while I was not sitting in it. The mechanic that I eventually found that was great and made my car a excellent daily driver did the old school method and hand made a extra thick copper head gasket and that solved the compression issue. Installed a extra high capacity radiator for the overheating issue and tuned it so that it passed the air-care pollution regulations. The octane boost 107 stuff worked very very well.

As I was reading this I thought, "he needed a thick copper gasket", and then read on that you got one.

 

[Doodski]

Now you've done it. There are the different schools of what type stop leak is good, and the heretics who will say none of them. Or Model T's using oatmeal.

As I was reading this I thought, "he needed a thick copper gasket", and then read on that you got one.

His boss who I always paid in cash and his eyes lit up told me that his mechanic that was so good used the ball peen hammer method over the head to cut out the copper out.

 

[Laserjock]

I think Redline

SI-1 FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER has the most PEA in it. Use it before changing your oil.​

 

[Golf]

I haven't used additives.

If it is any gas station you’re buying your fuel at, then you are using additives.

 

[thewas]

I think Redline

SI-1 FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER has the most PEA in it. Use it before changing your oil.​

That is not for diesel engines though like from the OP.

 

[OldHvyMec]

When the deck height on a block is cut, a shem, used to be made if it was a life saver or a one off engine repair. The old Merlin
required special care because of the length of the head/block. The shem was rebuildable and went with the block from that
point on. The firing rings, water passages and oil passages were all o-ringed on studded blocks. You check protrusion heights
and AAMOF there is nothing you can do unless you've stretched a rod, R&R to correct ONE that is out of spec. It happens.

Injector cleaners work, period. I repaired and rebuilt thousands of injectors when we did such thing. Pull the injectors and in the
cold tank they go. You inspect, replace as needed and build to spec, adjust the poppet pressure (if applicable) and test the pattern.

New injectors are as good as the station you get your fuel from. I use Napa brand every other tank. Rislone oil treatment every
oil change. Fuel, air, and oil filters every time (air on a non turbo can be light tested).

I've seen injector failures that split a 100 gallon aluminum fuel tank and ballooned the one on the opposite side. Every time the piston
would make compression, that compression returned to the tank via the return to tank fuel line. Cummins PT system/ NTCC BC series.

Don't squeeze on the maintenance fellas it pays in the short, mid and long run.
Air cleaner filters and turbos, the number one reason for failures, next long periods between maintenance intervals and poor quality oil.
The rule is the darker the new oil is the more additives they have. It's a good visual when comparing engine oil which doubles for great
hydraulic oil in 90% of hydraulic applications. The problem is cost per gallon. Oh and I use Rislone in place of ALL TT pocket oils.
The Best STUFF ever made. Smells good too.

 

[thewas]

Come on guys, be rigorous. Everyone knows it is better after you put something, anything in the tank and expect a result.

I haven't used additives. I've done the reverse. Back in the 1970's had two different cars with the bad old Quaker State oil in them since new. Various issues. Removed the valve covers which were so gunked up only open space was where the rockers moved. Cleaned that out. Used a paintbrush and kerosene to clean up other areas. Flushed some passages. Buttoned it all up with fresh Havoline oil and all was better. One of them began using lots of oil. And changing the oil and filter at half the interval the filter was super dirty. It was better the next go around and fine while no longer using oil after the 3rd oil change. You don't need additives. Just removatives. Dumping some bottle of something in and hoping for results is the lazy way out.

Anyone want to discuss radiator stop leak? We can do magic fuel economy things after that. Fish carburetor anyone? Or maybe a Pogue carburetor? Or magnets?

Same as saying additives can fix everything also fully denying everything as voodoo based on anecdotal evidence is not expedient as the truth is usually not black or white and depends on many parameters.
There is a whole branch of scientific research dealing with fuel and oil additives, many of them are already included in the ready products we use but also an additive package is always a compromise so sometimes a higher dosage in one direction can be helpful.
Here for example some papers on such:

https://www.jstor.org/stable/26272984

https://www.jstor.org/stable/26271541

 

[Laserjock]

That is not for diesel engines though like from the OP.

They may have a diesel engine but didn’t mention this in the original question.

 

[Thomas_A]

Same as saying additives can fix everything also fully denying everything as voodoo based on anecdotal evidence is not expedient as the truth is usually not black or white and depends on many parameters.
There is a whole branch of scientific research dealing with fuel and oil additives, many of them are already included in the ready products we use but also an additive package is always a compromise so sometimes a higher dosage in one direction can be helpful.
Here for example some papers on such:

https://www.jstor.org/stable/26272984

https://www.jstor.org/stable/26271541

Thanks, been reading some more and additives do have an effect. However, most seem already be added to modern fuel. I will continue to use the ”Diesel Extra” that was released recently. But I’ll skip adding anything myself. For now at least.

 

[thewas]

Thanks, been reading some more and additives do have an effect. However, most seem already be added to modern fuel. I will continue to use the ”Diesel Extra” that was released recently. But I’ll skip adding anything myself. For now at least.

Yes, you can try some tank loads with those and if the cleanings dose is not enough you can still add some concentrated cleaning additives later.

 

[HoweSound]

Nope. This stuff is the only thing that gets my thirty-year-old daily driver to pass smog inspection every two years. With out it it fails. With it, it passes with flying colors.

The C5 Corvette is prone to fuel gauge problems. The in-tank sensor will give faulty readings, showing an empty tank just after a complete fill. The remedy: use Chevron gas with Techron, plus a bottle of additive if the problem persists. I am told that the problem is caused by sulfur buildup on the potentiometer in the fuel tank and Techron cleans it up. I can confirm this works on my 02 C5.