-
WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!
Single Revel F208 with low midrange output
- Thread starter MichaelJ
- Start date
Adjust woofer and tweeter levels. Now that I look at it, the mid is not adjustable.
The bass trim is called a 'boundary' adjustment.
L pad calculator - attenuation dB damping impedance decibel loudspeaker speaker voltage divider - sengpielaudio Sengpiel Berlin
L pad calculator impedance attenuation damping dB decibel loudspeaker speaker voltage divider - Eberhard Sengpiel sengpielaudio
More Dynamics Please
Addicted to Fun and Learning
If dissatisfied with the Revel support response you could try to elevate to a manager with the understanding that the warranty only applies to the original owner. The question would be what is expected from Revel for an out-of-warranty speaker? Any repair that Revel would do to the speaker would have to be paid for in full by the second owner. If this is unsatisfactory then there's no need to pursue a solution from Revel which has already documented in the warranty that it only applies to the original owner.
- Thread Starter
- #45
An interesting alternative solution (project) occurred to me in the middle of the night: if determining the cause of the issue in the circuitry proves too difficult or the procedure for fixing it proves beyond my capabilities, I could always just rip out the passive crossovers altogether and actively tri-amp the things…
I have the amplification channels in the form of an ATI AT527NC and then I assume a MiniDSP 4x10HD would do the trick. I suppose I would need to figure out a way to add a third pair of binding posts…
Ordinarily I would think this is more trouble than it’s worth and ripping out the circuitry from a well regarded $5k loudspeaker I’ll-advised. But maybe, in this case, in a way, it would simplify things. It would certainly be an interesting project and potentially a killer setup. Crazy idea?
I have the amplification channels in the form of an ATI AT527NC and then I assume a MiniDSP 4x10HD would do the trick. I suppose I would need to figure out a way to add a third pair of binding posts…
Ordinarily I would think this is more trouble than it’s worth and ripping out the circuitry from a well regarded $5k loudspeaker I’ll-advised. But maybe, in this case, in a way, it would simplify things. It would certainly be an interesting project and potentially a killer setup. Crazy idea?
tecnogadget
Addicted to Fun and Learning
I think Revel is f thing up here. A warranty applies to the manufactured product, not to people. It doesn’t matter if you are the 10th owner of the speaker, if it’s faulty and it’s not due to l user misuse, just take responsibility and repair the damn speaker.
Apple stores repair iPhones if the serial number is under guarantee, no questions asked, no purchase invoice requested.
- Thread Starter
- #47
This is really helpful information. I’ll follow up tomorrow and share photos of what I find behind the midrange in both speakers.
Good idea in theory, but if you don't have the ability to make 3d quasi anechoic measurements of each driver and then combine them accurately in software, the results will probably be worse than the passive crossover as it is.
Revel gets great performance with the passive crossover, I would stick with that.
More Dynamics Please
Addicted to Fun and Learning
If you read the warranties for a number of products you will find a mix of company policies with many warranties only applying to the original purchaser and not transferable. It's factored into the cost of the product along with other costs such as "free" shipping. Consumers pay extra for products with more comprehensive warranties such as those that are transferable to multiple owners. Having worked for a couple of different large corporations I can tell you that when you attend a cost and pricing meeting the bean counters come in with books full of numbers that show what each added feature will add to the manufacturer cost and consumer pricing of a product.
Of course it's fair to argue that a premium speaker brand such as Revel should have a more premium, transferable warranty and simply add a few extra dollars to the consumer price of an already fairly pricey product.
- Thread Starter
- #50
Well, it was a bit of a chore accessing the midrange crossover board. It is NOT located in the midrange compartment as I hoped. Rather, it is directly behind the top bass driver, which was in there so tight I had to remove the binding post component, reach through its hole and push the bottom bass driver out from behind while prying from the front. I tried for a half hour to remove the other woofer in order to get direct access to the board, but it won't budge. I took these pictures by sticking my iPhone up behind the top woofer...I'm not sure what, if anything, can be gleaned from this.
open the other one and see if it matches?
Maybe there’s an extra resistor in the “Jumper” spot or missing jumper or a different value component ?
- Thread Starter
- #54
This one? Yes, I would say it is not as flat as the other ones. I can feel a slight "bulge".
- Thread Starter
- #55
Been trying—can't get the bass driver loose from the cabinet to get a view inside...still trying.
- Thread Starter
- #57
I had a feeling that might be it too. Can you—or anyone else with knowledge of crossover circuitry—elaborate? Is this conclusive?
I have a feeling that a bad cap wouldn’t produce what you’re seeing but I’ve been wrrrr, I’ve been wrrrr; not sure….
JayGilb
Major Contributor
That's a pretty linear db reduction in the midrange band and one would think it's a resistor causing the difference.
I doubt that's it. Take a picture of the other midrange crossover.
I've never heard of an electrolytic cap failing in a crossover, it's not subjected to the constant thermal load that you'd see in a power supply or something.
To me the problem definitely looks like a resistive difference; the whole level drops off. If a cap failed or changed value you wouldn't see the whole response go down by 8db.
I've never heard of an electrolytic cap failing in a crossover, it's not subjected to the constant thermal load that you'd see in a power supply or something.
To me the problem definitely looks like a resistive difference; the whole level drops off. If a cap failed or changed value you wouldn't see the whole response go down by 8db.
