Share your in-room measurements?

[silentt29]

I measured my living room setup with my Klipsch RP-600M speakers and a small Dayton iMM-6 calibrated microphone and a frequency sweep file in May 2021. I took measurements of each speaker with the microphone at the left, center, and right listening positions on my sofa, for a total of six measurements.

 

[IamJF]

I measured my living room setup with my Klipsch RP-600M speakers and a small Dayton iMM-6 calibrated microphone and a frequency sweep file in May 2021. I took measurements of each speaker with the microphone at the left, center, and right listening positions on my sofa, for a total of six measurements.View attachment 318264

Oh - that's at least 10dB to low bass? How does it sound? Did you try to move speakers closer to front wall and/or change listening postition?

 

[IamJF]

Here are my latest Measurements (Neumann KH150 + KH750 Sub wit MA1 Correction) - Pretty happy so far with overall Sound and also Measurements. Next Step is a 2nd Sub, try to get a cleaner Lowend specially between 40-50 Hz. My big Acoustic Cloud over the Couch (~3x3m) is realy effective for the RT60 over 110-20khz max 350ms Reverbtime, not realy Living room friendly, but audio performance first ;-D Hope a 2nd KH750 Sub will improve the Lowend

So this EQ curve is after your taste? Did you try to boost frequencies <100-150Hz? I would do so, at least 3-5dB to get a more rounded listening experience. Bass correction of the MA1 seem to be pretty good!

With a high ceiling you don't need your cloud that low. Do you have any corners which are unused? Or room behind a couch? Fill it with fluffy material! Often it's easy to add 30-40cm deep absorption in hidden places (or on top of a cupboard or under a tv shelf or ....). That's mainly lf absorption.
Material is cheap and you can reuse it in any flat, worst case you have to rebuild some of them but can use your absorption material.

p.s.: please always use a log frequency scale! Your waterfall is unreadable ...

 

[silentt29]

Oh - that's at least 10dB to low bass? How does it sound? Did you try to move speakers closer to front wall and/or change listening postition?

I honestly should re-measure my room setup, as it's been a couple years. I have a couple other measurements prior to May 2021, and most of those appear to have a relatively low bass and high-frequency response. My speakers are in an equilateral triangle near-field position, far from the back and side walls. There's a long six-foot TV stand directly behind the speakers. The speakers face a three-seat sofa. Hardwood floor, a center rug, and a single Auralex SonoLite panel for each speaker, placed at the first reflection point. I have no other acoustic treatment.

I haven't heard any awful rumbling bass, but I really should re-measure. Maybe this weekend.

Here's the broken-down version of that response chart from May 2021, displaying the individual microphone positions and speakers.

Regarding repositioning my speakers, I would like to make the setup more far-field, but as I purchased and placed the big TV stand and other furniture after I had already positioned my speakers, it's nearly impossible at this point. Hopefully in the near future with a larger space.

 

[david moran]

See p16 here:

https://ethanwiner.com/aes/david_moran.pdf

(temporally and spatially averaged, unlike many)

 

[PowerSerge]

I honestly should re-measure my room setup, as it's been a couple years. I have a couple other measurements prior to May 2021, and most of those appear to have a relatively low bass and high-frequency response. My speakers are in an equilateral triangle near-field position, far from the back and side walls. There's a long six-foot TV stand directly behind the speakers. The speakers face a three-seat sofa. Hardwood floor, a center rug, and a single Auralex SonoLite panel for each speaker, placed at the first reflection point. I have no other acoustic treatment.

I haven't heard any awful rumbling bass, but I really should re-measure. Maybe this weekend.

Here's the broken-down version of that response chart from May 2021, displaying the individual microphone positions and speakers.

Regarding repositioning my speakers, I would like to make the setup more far-field, but as I purchased and placed the big TV stand and other furniture after I had already positioned my speakers, it's nearly impossible at this point. Hopefully in the near future with a larger space.
View attachment 318312

Damn thats gotta sound extremely thin. That blue line at the bottom marked as "blank" is what your response should look like. Starting from the left sloping downward going to the right. I would move the speakers as far back as possible towards that tv stand to try to get any kind of room gain you can. Or if you can put the speakers on each side of the tv stand and right next to the front wall, like only a few inches away would really help. You dont have to follow the equilateral triangle rule especially if its giving you such a janky frequency response. You can tow them in or out as well to compensate although most horn loaded speakers should be towed in to where the sound meets in front of your face.

 

[Albert Dagger]

These are the results of running Audyssey with the iPad app + Ratbuddysey.
The target curve was designed with a low shelf below 150Hz and a gentle slope to reach -2dB at 6KHz.
Mid-range compensation is off. Dynamic EQ is also off.
Front speakers are set to full range. The centre speaker is set to 60Hz, the surrounds to 80Hz, and the heights to 100Hz.
Correction ends at 8KHz. Audyssey didn't apply any correction to the height speakers, so I didn't measure them.

You can see in the background, in grey, the measurements of the uncorrected channels with dips and peaks that Audyssey has corrected. It was necessary to correct up to 8KHz in order to get the same frequency response between fronts and surrounds. The fronts are too hot between 2KHz and 5KHz (probably reflections?), while the surrounds roll off too quickly.

You can't see the Rt time on this image, but it's high. It's about 0.7/0.8 between 1KHz and 6KHz. I have many reflective surfaces in my room and the furniture is minimal.

The results, both in stereo and surround, are a clear improvement against no correction. Correcting only the bass (up to 500Hz) also helps, but it's clear the fronts are brighter than the surrounds, so this configuration seems to work better for me.

Why is there so much decay after 10KHz? I assume that is normal because correcting that doesn't sounds natural.

Let me know what you think.

 

[Kaameelis]

Why is there so much decay after 10KHz? I assume that is normal because correcting that doesn't sounds natural.

Can you show how decay actually looks?

 

[OCA]

Why is there so much decay after 10KHz?

That's Audyssey "High frequency roll off 1" applied plus the ACM1HB mic 90 degree HF sensitivity (or the lack there of)

 

[Albert Dagger]

That's Audyssey "High frequency roll off 1" applied plus the ACM1HB mic 90 degree HF sensitivity (or the lack there of)

Might be the mic. I don’t apply correction beyond 8Khz

 

[flipflop]

Let me know what you think.

You risk degrading the sound quality when you EQ the in-room response to a target curve above the transition frequency.
Here is one example: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ing-results-why-not.45861/page-2#post-1635398

You also need more stuff in your room to bring down the RT.

 

[OCA]

Might be the mic. I don’t apply correction beyond 8Khz

HFR1 or HFR2 is independent of the curtains you use. I think you can only fully disable it with MultEQ-X.

 

[Albert Dagger]

HFR1 or HFR2 is independent of the curtains you use. I think you can only fully disable it with MultEQ-X.

I don't think there's any correction applied beyond 8KHz. I can see it from the Denon menu as well. The measurements should the same curves before and after correction at high frequencies. It might be the mic (UMIK1).

 

[Albert Dagger]

You risk degrading the sound quality when you EQ the in-room response to a target curve above the transition frequency.
Here is one example: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...ing-results-why-not.45861/page-2#post-1635398

You also need more stuff in your room to bring down the RT.

I know, but it sounds better. If I keep the correction at 200Hz or 500Hz, the fronts and centre will be too bright. I am against this approach but the results seems more pleasant.

With regards to furniture, there's a compromise to be made. This is my listening space but also my living room, so there is only so much I can achieve without altering how it looks. With time, I might add bookshelves or small stuff.

 

[Albert Dagger]

Can you show how decay actually looks?

This is how they look with 1/48 smoothing. I've only captured 5K to 20K.
These were measured with a Umik1, 90 degrees, and associated calibration file.

 

[OCA]

I don't think there's any correction applied beyond 8KHz. I can see it from the Denon menu as well. The measurements should the same curves before and after correction at high frequencies. It might be the mic (UMIK1).

Try measuring with Audyssey off and you will see.

 

[flipflop]

I know, but it sounds better. If I keep the correction at 200Hz or 500Hz, the fronts and centre will be too bright. I am against this approach but the results seems more pleasant.

The midrange is also being equalized.
You speakers might very well be too bright, but it's better to use anechoic data to correct them.

This is my listening space but also my living room, so there is only so much I can achieve without altering how it looks.

An appropriate RT for music listening is also an appropriate RT for conversing. I think you should (re)consider if you have struck the right balance between looks and acoustics.

 

[Albert Dagger]

Try measuring with Audyssey off and you will see.

The measurements with Audyssey off are in the background, in grey. I know they are not very visible in the high frequencies, but they are very close to the measurements with Audyssey on. I don't believe there is correction up there.

 

[Albert Dagger]

The midrange is also being equalized.
You speakers might very well be too bright, but it's better to use anechoic data to correct them.

An appropriate RT for music listening is also an appropriate RT for conversing. I think you should (re)consider if you have struck the right balance between looks and acoustics.

I don't have measurements for my speakers (Monitor Audio Gold 200 5G). I would expect them to be similar to the 300, of which it's possible to find basic measurements at Stereophile. They should be pretty much flat. They are detailed but most likely flat.

I can try again stopping at 250Hz or 300Hz to be safe, but the result will be having the front speakers louder at 4/6KH than the surrounds.
Should I use an online calculator to determine the transition frequency or just go for 250?

The room is not the best for audio listening, but the speech is perfectly clear. Talking in a room with 0.7 is fine. My office space is better with 0.4, but the difference is not huge for just speech. Changing furniture and stuff is not only my decision, it has to be negotiated with my partner, and at the moment I am okay with a minimal approach. I wouldn't mind having a tick rug, which makes a difference, but I can also live without.

I'm just trying to get the best possible room correction calibration, without messing too much with the natural response of my speakers.

 

[flipflop]

I don't have measurements for my speakers (Monitor Audio Gold 200 5G).

You could make your own quasi-anechoic measurements:

How to make quasi-anechoic speaker measurements/spinoramas with REW and VituixCAD

Quasi-anechoic measurements are a way to capture the 'real' frequency response of a speaker without the influence of a room. They are called 'quasi-anechoic' because they have the potential to get you really close to the results one might achieve with a non-reflective environment like an...

www.audiosciencereview.com

They should be pretty much flat. They are detailed but most likely flat.

Even if the speakers are flat on-axis, they might have a directivity error causing off-axis brightness.

Should I use an online calculator to determine the transition frequency or just go for 250?

You can use a calculator. It should only take a minute if you already know the dimensions of your room.

amroc - THE Room Mode Calculator

HTML5 room mode calculator. Read and hear the tune of axial, tangential and oblique modes. Scientific sources included.

amcoustics.com

I'm just trying to get the best possible room correction calibration, without messing too much with the natural response of my speakers.

A short-term solution could be to limit the correction to below the transition frequency and apply a cutting shelf filter (or a low Q peak filter) to the treble to tame the brightness.