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S-PDIF to USB converter. Any suggestions?

sergeauckland

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I'm looking for an inexpensive converter that will take an S-PDIF input and deliver a USB output.

There are any number of USB to S-PDIF output for under £$€20 , but I can't find a single one that provides an S-PDIF input.

I want to make some measurements on a stand-alone ADC that takes in balanced analogue and outputs S-PDIF, coax and optical. Unfortunately, I can't get my old Digigram PCMCIA card which has S-PDIF and analogue I/O to work with W7 or later drivers, so can't use that.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

S.
 
USB output is complicated, you would need a device with a proper kernel and drivers to communicate with the USB audio device. Maybe a HiFiBerry Digi+ IO on a Raspberry Pi would be an option for you. You could perhaps make a script to poll the SPDIF inputs for a signal, determine the sample rate, then route it out to whatever DAC is connected at that sample rate.

Or...you just want a USB soundcard with SPDIF input? They are all over Amazon for like $30-$40
Heck, this one is $16:
https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-External-Channel-Surround/dp/B00Q4WQ7XW/
 
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Thanks for that suggestion. I didn't think to look for a bidirectional sound card, as so few have stereo S-PDIF inputs, rather than multichannel.

I dug out my old Windows XP laptop that worked with the Digigram card I have, and it still works, XP was the last version of windows that the Digigram drivers would work with reliably. Best was W2000!

S
 
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A 2nd hand Focusrite 6i6 1st or 2nd generation has SPDIF in and out while it connects via USB. Also 1st gen or 2nd gen 18i20s had SPDIF and ADAT ins and outs. With some patience you'll find one for $150 or so. Not cheap, but best I can think of right now. These still work with all the Windows and Mac versions.
 
If you can run across a Mutec MC 1.2 or MC 1.1 it goes in both directions between all the digital formats and USB (plus does reclocking if you wish). They are discontinued though I have seen them for $100 to $150 in the past 2nd hand.
 
https://www.newegg.com/p/23H-00FG-00001?Description=spdif card&cm_re=spdif_card-_-9SIAPBUC404222-_-Product&quicklink=true

This similar looking to the jcaduono shows, but it shows an optical in and out. I just don't know if the optical in also feeds back to the USB or only out to the surround channels.

$23

And another for $38.
https://www.newegg.com/startech-com-icusbaudio7d/p/N82E16829128010?Item=9SIA2F891V9430

This one specifies SPDIF input is pass thru only so I bet that is the case with all of this type. Not going to solve your problem.
 
https://www.newegg.com/p/23H-00FG-00001?Description=spdif card&cm_re=spdif_card-_-9SIAPBUC404222-_-Product&quicklink=true

This similar looking to the jcaduono shows, but it shows an optical in and out. I just don't know if the optical in also feeds back to the USB or only out to the surround channels.

$23

And another for $38.
https://www.newegg.com/startech-com-icusbaudio7d/p/N82E16829128010?Item=9SIA2F891V9430

This one specifies SPDIF input is pass thru only so I bet that is the case with all of this type. Not going to solve your problem.
Yes, it looks as if my XP laptop will need to be kept, if only for the S-PDIF I/O. It would also have been nice if I could get something that could handle 96k sampling so I can measure ADC frequency response and distortion at higher than my current limit of 48k.

Thanks anyway. I may look out for that Focusrite box if I get to the point of having to replace the XP laptop.
EDIT:- Why did I keep writing SP? I know very well it's XP!
:facepalm:
 
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Thanks for that, didn't come across that thread when I looked.

It's annoying that there seems to be more optical to USB than coax or AES-EBU to USB. I don't use optical for anything, all my digital sources output coax. I do have an optical to coax converter, but it's yet another box.

So far, whatever I've done with the XP laptop and Digigram card has worked OK, so I think I'll stick to that for the moment.

S.
 
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Touching this old thread to add an option that had not been listed — both are optical and not coax:
I've been using the UR23. It works most of the time, and there's not much else for options, other than that S2 Digi. About once or twice a year it'll freak out on me, forcing me to unplug it and restart my computer. I'm not sure if it's the unit's fault, or an issue with my Mac Mini.
 
I've been using the UR23. It works most of the time, and there's not much else for options, other than that S2 Digi. About once or twice a year it'll freak out on me, forcing me to unplug it and restart my computer. I'm not sure if it's the unit's fault, or an issue with my Mac Mini.
I took a chance on this Cubilux UCSTR-B3 since it was quite a bit cheaper (only $34.99 USD on Amazon) than the Hifime options and it's working well for me in Windows 11. No ASIO drivers but it's class compliant UAC2 up to 192kHz/24bit and has both S/PDIF Toslink input and output. Ended up using it for input only and my SMSL PO100 Pro for output. They sell some cheaper adapters that are S/PDIF input only to USB-A/C but those max out at 48kHz/16bit so I didn't bother.
 
I took a chance on this Cubilux UCSTR-B3 since it was quite a bit cheaper (only $34.99 USD on Amazon) than the Hifime options and it's working well for me in Windows 11. No ASIO drivers but it's class compliant UAC2 up to 192kHz/24bit and has both S/PDIF Toslink input and output. Ended up using it for input only and my SMSL PO100 Pro for output. They sell some cheaper adapters that are S/PDIF input only to USB-A/C but those max out at 48kHz/16bit so I didn't bother.
That looks interesting, and I like the fact that it does both in and out conversion and has both S/PDIF and Toslink.
One thing I keep re-learning about my UR23 is that the computer will occasionally switch it's sample rate to 44.1 kHz while everything else is running at 48kHz. This leads to popping/clicking sounds on all my sound sources running through the computer. On the UR23 it's hilariously bad because it causes random pitch shifts as the sample rate goes back and forth, and that's what reminds me to go change it's sample rate back to 48kHz.
 
That looks interesting, and I like the fact that it does both in and out conversion and has both S/PDIF and Toslink.
One thing I keep re-learning about my UR23 is that the computer will occasionally switch it's sample rate to 44.1 kHz while everything else is running at 48kHz. This leads to popping/clicking sounds on all my sound sources running through the computer. On the UR23 it's hilariously bad because it causes random pitch shifts as the sample rate goes back and forth, and that's what reminds me to go change it's sample rate back to 48kHz.
Are you using any DAWs on your Mac? They might be changing the sample rate on the interface to match the project.
 
Are you using any DAWs on your Mac? They might be changing the sample rate on the interface to match the project.
No, I'm just using that UR23 for input and a Denon Receiver for output.
 
Yes, it looks as if my XP laptop will need to be kept, if only for the S-PDIF I/O. It would also have been nice if I could get something that could handle 96k sampling so I can measure ADC frequency response and distortion at higher than my current limit of 48k.

Thanks anyway. I may look out for that Focusrite box if I get to the point of having to replace the XP laptop.
EDIT:- Why did I keep writing SP? I know very well it's XP!
:facepalm:
Wouldn't it be easier to switch directly to the E1DA COSMOS ADCISO Balanced ADC ES9822Pro 32-bit 768 kHz?
Before you invest elsewhere, you would already be at the upper end here in terms of measurement.
 
This thread also mentions options for S/PDIF => USB: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...lladsp-set-up-instructions-for-newbies.30830/ I recently made an overview of all the options listed throughout that thread (when I needed one between my Samsung TV with TOSLINK and Raspberry Pi 5): https://www.jarkko.nl/dokuwiki/raspberry_pi/audio_components

I bought the already mentioned Hifime S2 Digi, which works well. (Simultaneous conversion from USB to TOSLINK does not work well though. That has audio drop-outs. I only tested this with the Raspberry Pi 5, not a PC.)

There are also alternatives:
  • An audio interfaces with S/PDIF input. Those are relatively rare though and not as cheap, but it could make sense if you need one anyway.
  • Some Sound Blaster products have/had a TOSLINK input
 
related thread

 
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