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Review and Measurements of Sound BlasterX G6

deadchip12

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Have any of you tried the USBCMDMasterInstaller_3.4.92.00.exe? So far I don't have any problems with just using it for music, direct setting, asio drivers for windows 10. No clicks or pops or other weird issues. I use it at -2.5db windows volume and output to a Schiit Heresy driving a Crown XLS 1500. I had been using the built-in windows UAC2 drivers after having problems with all of the Creative drivers.
I updated to the latest Sound Blaster Command and firmware but still hear occasional pop/click. Apparently I'm not the only one who is having this long-standing issue: https://www.reddit.com/r/SoundBlasterOfficial/comments/kuhc7e
 

AudioManNewb

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USB or SPDIF for use with PC? Also how should things be setup if you use your onboard audios SPDIF connection I have noticed it is considerably louder connected that way.
 

pongpaktech

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USB or SPDIF for use with PC? Also how should things be setup if you use your onboard audios SPDIF connection I have noticed it is considerably louder connected that way.

You should use USB for PC so that you can use the SB Command software and adjust the volume via the Windows volume slider (after setting it as the default audio output)
 

pongpaktech

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Quick question about volume control via windows for the G6.

Is the volume control via the master windows slider for the G6 digital volume control (the type that takes away dynamic range if set super low) or is it controlling the gain on the amp like an encoder type volume knob?

I got my iFi iEMatch last night and it's allowed me to increase the master volume from 8% to 20% and increase the volume of each app in the mixer (which I access with EarTrumpet) from 30% - 40% to 80% - 90%.

I just wanted to make sure that's the correct way to set up my mixer because from my understanding the mixer does digital volume control that can reduce dynamic rage but the master/G6 amp volume is "analogue" and does not affect dyamic range even at low settings

Here's a pic for reference (I'm not at my desk with the G6 right now but it's basically the same):
1611804089593.png
 

Robbo99999

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Quick question about volume control via windows for the G6.

Is the volume control via the master windows slider for the G6 digital volume control (the type that takes away dynamic range if set super low) or is it controlling the gain on the amp like an encoder type volume knob?

I got my iFi iEMatch last night and it's allowed me to increase the master volume from 8% to 20% and increase the volume of each app in the mixer (which I access with EarTrumpet) from 30% - 40% to 80% - 90%.

I just wanted to make sure that's the correct way to set up my mixer because from my understanding the mixer does digital volume control that can reduce dynamic rage but the master/G6 amp volume is "analogue" and does not affect dyamic range even at low settings

Here's a pic for reference (I'm not at my desk with the G6 right now but it's basically the same):
View attachment 108917
I have the G6, and my understanding is that volume control is completely digital, therefore the lower you set the Master Volume slider in Windows then the lower the dynamic range, but if you set your sound properties to use 24bit audio, then you don't really have to worry about dynamic range problems. Twisting the volume knob on the G6 does the same thing as the Master Volume slider in Windows. I do have a Topping E30 DAC though that has it's own digital volume control that is independant of the Windows Master Volume Slider, so on that DAC I run Windows Master Volume at 100% (actually a bit less to allow for intersample overs) and then I use the remote control on the E30 DAC to change the volume up & down, and for the E30 DAC that all happens inside the DAC without Windows knowing about it.....but the Soundblaster G6 doesn't have this seperate volume control function.
 

pongpaktech

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I have the G6, and my understanding is that volume control is completely digital, therefore the lower you set the Master Volume slider in Windows then the lower the dynamic range, but if you set your sound properties to use 24bit audio, then you don't really have to worry about dynamic range problems. Twisting the volume knob on the G6 does the same thing as the Master Volume slider in Windows. I do have a Topping E30 DAC though that has it's own digital volume control that is independant of the Windows Master Volume Slider, so on that DAC I run Windows Master Volume at 100% (actually a bit less to allow for intersample overs) and then I use the remote control on the E30 DAC to change the volume up & down, and for the E30 DAC that all happens inside the DAC without Windows knowing about it.....but the Soundblaster G6 doesn't have this seperate volume control function.

Hmm that's interesting since I can set MusicBee to WASPI exclusive mode, which should bypass all Windows digital volume control, but still adjust the G6's volume with the master slider. The mixer sliders do get disabled tho

Edit: Fixed typos
 

Robbo99999

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Hmm that's interesting since I can set MusicBee to WASPI exclusive mode, which should bypass all Windows digital volume control, but still adjust the G6's volume with the master slider. The mixer sliders do get disabled tho\

Edit: Fixed typos
It must still be digital volume control though, regardless of whether Windows or another program is instigating it, so you still lose dynamic range.....therefore you'd want to make sure you're not in 16bit mode, you'd want to be in 24bit mode to minimise the loss of dynamic range.
 

pongpaktech

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It must still be digital volume control though, regardless of whether Windows or another program is instigating it, so you still lose dynamic range.....therefore you'd want to make sure you're not in 16bit mode, you'd want to be in 24bit mode to minimise the loss of dynamic range.

But if it was just digital volume control on Windows' slider would it not be disabled in WASAPI exclusive mode? Could the master slider be linked to the gain of the internal amp rather than the bit depth that is sent to the dac? From my understanding electronic/encoder based volume knobs worked this way.
 

Robbo99999

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But if it was just digital volume control on Windows' slider would it not be disabled in WASAPI exclusive mode? Could the master slider be linked to the gain of the internal amp rather than the bit depth that is sent to the dac? From my understanding electronic/encoder based volume knobs worked this way.
I don't think so personally, although I'm not an expert in this. I think it's all digital volume control, in fact I'm pretty darn certain there's no analogue volume pot in the G6 for instance.
 

ku1185

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I updated to the latest Sound Blaster Command and firmware but still hear occasional pop/click. Apparently I'm not the only one who is having this long-standing issue: https://www.reddit.com/r/SoundBlasterOfficial/comments/kuhc7e

Hi. I'm dealing with the same issue. From what I can gather, this seems to come down to getting clean power from USB port. Here's some potential fixes, starting with what I think is the most likely to work:

1. Go into your motherboard BIOS and change to PCI-e 3.0 from 4.0. Seems like a Windows update may have affected how power is delivered to USB ports and switching to PCI-e 3.0 fixes it.
2. Use a powered USB hub.
3. Disable "USB selective suspend" and "PCI-e power management' in Windows power settings.
4. Change cable and USB ports.

There are some other potential fixes, such as removing Creative drivers and using the default Windows drivers.

I found swapping cables to make the most noticeable change, followed by powered USB hub. None of these have eliminated the issue, but the popping/crackling sounds are much quieter and barely noticeable. I haven't been able to test the PCI-e 3.0 option since my latest BIOS seems to have removed that option. Hopefully my motherboard manufacturer will provide a solution.

If you find anything else, please let me know. I really want to like the G6 but it's got so many weird little quirks that are really bothering me.
 

ku1185

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I'm new to this audio thing, but after reading through this thread, I decided to try to increase Windows volume to 79 and use the inline volume control on Vmoda boompro to achieve a reasonable volume. I notice a significant softening of certain sounds when listening to music, and overall improvement in listening experience. Is what I'm experiencing dynamic range? Or is it just the effect of setting the inline volume control very low?

If the volume settings in Windows is what's providing the better experience, I'm not sure how to get the most out of the G6 unless getting a separate amp. I have a DT770 coming so a cable with volume control is probably not an option. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, I saw somewhere in this thread of people mentioning that the bit depth/sample rates are locked when using Microsoft drivers. I believe that is because when you use Microsoft drivers, the G6 turns on 7.1 virtualization which limits bit/sample rate. During my time trying to figure out the popping issue, I noticed that audio quality setting was limited and that's my guess. Going into direct mode will let you select the full range, and you can hear the difference between 7.1 and stereo. I also noticed that sometimes it does not default back to 7.1 or change the RGB settings. Go figure.
 

Robbo99999

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I'm new to this audio thing, but after reading through this thread, I decided to try to increase Windows volume to 79 and use the inline volume control on Vmoda boompro to achieve a reasonable volume. I notice a significant softening of certain sounds when listening to music, and overall improvement in listening experience. Is what I'm experiencing dynamic range? Or is it just the effect of setting the inline volume control very low?

If the volume settings in Windows is what's providing the better experience, I'm not sure how to get the most out of the G6 unless getting a separate amp. I have a DT770 coming so a cable with volume control is probably not an option. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, I saw somewhere in this thread of people mentioning that the bit depth/sample rates are locked when using Microsoft drivers. I believe that is because when you use Microsoft drivers, the G6 turns on 7.1 virtualization which limits bit/sample rate. During my time trying to figure out the popping issue, I noticed that audio quality setting was limited and that's my guess. Going into direct mode will let you select the full range, and you can hear the difference between 7.1 and stereo. I also noticed that sometimes it does not default back to 7.1 or change the RGB settings. Go figure.
What windows volume level do you need for your Vmoda if you have the volume control on the cable set to maximum? Have you got 24bit audio selected in the sound properties of the G6?
 

ku1185

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What windows volume level do you need for your Vmoda if you have the volume control on the cable set to maximum? Have you got 24bit audio selected in the sound properties of the G6?

I usually listen around 8-12 on Windows volume. I can tolerate up to about 18-20, but I've gone up to 30 and it was uncomfortably loud.

I've tried 24 and 32 bit, anywhere from 48khz to 192khz (384khz seems to cause issues with some programs and games).
 

Robbo99999

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I usually listen around 8-12 on Windows volume. I can tolerate up to about 18-20, but I've gone up to 30 and it was uncomfortably loud.

I've tried 24 and 32 bit, anywhere from 48khz to 192khz (384khz seems to cause issues with some programs and games).
You could just stick it on 32bit 44Hz audio, and then run it at your 8-12 Windows Volume....that way you're not gonna lose any dynamic range (32bit). I'm not sure if you'd lose significant dynamic range if you ran it at 24bit and had Windows Volume that low (I'd have to look into that), but it doesn't hurt to run it at 32bit & be safe. So if you do that, then you don't have to worry about controlling the volume on your Vmoda cable volume control for instance - you'll have enough dynamic range when running at 32bit with whatever Windows Volume level you choose.
 

ku1185

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You could just stick it on 32bit 44Hz audio, and then run it at your 8-12 Windows Volume....that way you're not gonna lose any dynamic range (32bit). I'm not sure if you'd lose significant dynamic range if you ran it at 24bit and had Windows Volume that low (I'd have to look into that), but it doesn't hurt to run it at 32bit & be safe. So if you do that, then you don't have to worry about controlling the volume on your Vmoda cable volume control for instance - you'll have enough dynamic range when running at 32bit with whatever Windows Volume level you choose.

Thanks. This doesn't seem to affect what I'm experiencing, however.

When playing music, instruments sound more natural and real when Windows volume is set very high compared to when it's set very low (e.g., bass guitar sounds very thin at low volume but full and thick at high volume; snare drums sound extra sharp and punchy at low volume but well rounded at high volume). Oddly enough, I'm not experiencing this difference when using a USB dongle: things sound virtually the same whether at low Windows volume or high Windows volume. I've heard that with other DACs, you want to set the source audio volume to max to get the best quality audio, but with the G6 that means it's the volume that G6's amp will output.

Hmm... Now I'm wondering if I should get a separate AMP or try to find a separate volume reducer.
 

Robbo99999

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Thanks. This doesn't seem to affect what I'm experiencing, however.

When playing music, instruments sound more natural and real when Windows volume is set very high compared to when it's set very low (e.g., bass guitar sounds very thin at low volume but full and thick at high volume; snare drums sound extra sharp and punchy at low volume but well rounded at high volume). Oddly enough, I'm not experiencing this difference when using a USB dongle: things sound virtually the same whether at low Windows volume or high Windows volume. I've heard that with other DACs, you want to set the source audio volume to max to get the best quality audio, but with the G6 that means it's the volume that G6's amp will output.

Hmm... Now I'm wondering if I should get a separate AMP or try to find a separate volume reducer.
Well, there are some other benefits to running close to max Windows Volume (or max volume on the DAC) other than dynamic range we talked about, Intermodulation Distortion is lower and SNR is higher as the noise floor remains the same but the signal strength increases:
1612417163850.png


So yes, I think there's some theoretical benefits to getting a seperate good headphone amp and running close to max volume on the G6 (-2.5dBFS to prevent the clipping problem of the G6). I noticed a subjective improvement getting an Atom Amp vs using the inbuilt amp of the G6.
 

ku1185

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Well, there are some other benefits to running close to max Windows Volume (or max volume on the DAC) other than dynamic range we talked about, Intermodulation Distortion is lower and SNR is higher as the noise floor remains the same but the signal strength increases:
View attachment 110472

So yes, I think there's some theoretical benefits to getting a seperate good headphone amp and running close to max volume on the G6 (-2.5dBFS to prevent the clipping problem of the G6). I noticed a subjective improvement getting an Atom Amp vs using the inbuilt amp of the G6.

The data here is what had me try increasing the Windows volume in the first place. So I've been browsing around for headphone amps ,but I already spent way more than I intended and bought two headphones when I just wanted one. =)

Instead of relying on inline volume control, I'm wondering if a standalone volume controller like https://smile.amazon.com/ICQUANZX-C...line+volume+attenuator&qid=1612399897&sr=8-19 would work. Then again, portable headphone amps are about the same price, but I'll almost exclusively be using it at my desk anyway.
 

trl

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Seems to work as both USB-volume_control/switcher and ADC/DAC as well, but let's wait for an answer from someone that was actually used such a device.
 

Robbo99999

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The data here is what had me try increasing the Windows volume in the first place. So I've been browsing around for headphone amps ,but I already spent way more than I intended and bought two headphones when I just wanted one. =)

Instead of relying on inline volume control, I'm wondering if a standalone volume controller like https://smile.amazon.com/ICQUANZX-C...line+volume+attenuator&qid=1612399897&sr=8-19 would work. Then again, portable headphone amps are about the same price, but I'll almost exclusively be using it at my desk anyway.
I think we're talking about relatively small improvements by using a standalone headphone amp vs using the headphone amp that's in the G6 DAC, so I wouldn't blow it and buy that untested piece of equipment in that link because you have no idea how it performs......either buy a proven/measured headphone amp that's been measured here on ASR or keep using the headphone amp in the G6 DAC.
 

ku1185

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I think we're talking about relatively small improvements by using a standalone headphone amp vs using the headphone amp that's in the G6 DAC, so I wouldn't blow it and buy that untested piece of equipment in that link because you have no idea how it performs......either buy a proven/measured headphone amp that's been measured here on ASR or keep using the headphone amp in the G6 DAC.

I think that device is just supposed act like an inline volume control so I can use it with headphones without detachable cables. I still have a few days to return the G6 and buy a different DAC/amp, or maybe I'll just invest in a proper amp. Decisions decisions...
 
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