• WANTED: Happy members who like to discuss audio and other topics related to our interest. Desire to learn and share knowledge of science required. There are many reviews of audio hardware and expert members to help answer your questions. Click here to have your audio equipment measured for free!

Pre-amp vs No Pre-Amp, and Impedance Matching of components.

ethanhallbeyer

Active Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2019
Messages
175
Likes
50
I am putting together the following system and don’t really know anything about impedance matching, so would appreciate some input on what I may need to watch out for, if anything:

- SOURCE: PC or iPAD via USB to DAC
- DAC: Denafrips Ares II w/ balanced XLR out
- AMP: Purifi or NC1200 monoblocks (balanced XLR in)
-HPA: Monoprice 789
-Headphones: Drop HD-6xx w/ XLR cable
- SPEAKERS: KEF LS50 & Magnepans (likely LRS for starters)

I’ve had my general configuration like above, except with different components, in the past. The main reason was I tended to fall into the camp of those who believe you get better sound quality by not using a pre-amp at all. Another plus was the cost savings from not having a pre-amp. Now, I’m considering a tube pre-amp, possibly, like the Schiit Freya+, which is balanced and has received great reviews. I’d do this if I want to get a different sound out of my setup.

In addition to the components above, I have a JBL M-Patch-2 XLR switch with volume knob (like a passive pre-amp). I also have an NobSound speaker switcher with remote. These two units let me use the same DAC with balanced XLR out to the JBL XLR switch, which has XLR outs to my headphone amp and also to my speaker amp. From there, the speaker cables connect to the NobSound speaker switcher, and two sets of binding posts allow me to output to 2 different pairs of speakers. One pair is used with the KEF LS50 for near-field applications and analytical listening while using my PC, the other is to be for just sitting back enjoying the music on a different set of speakers in a different part of the room.

This has worked pretty well for me so far, but I wonder if I may not be getting the best sound possible that way.

Is there any way that I can determine if I’m getting optimal results this way or not? would impedance matching be the answer? would I be better off with two separate DACs and amps?

Thanks in advance!
 

solderdude

Grand Contributor
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Messages
16,068
Likes
36,479
Location
The Neitherlands
When you use your system without the MPatch or have the volume control set to max. do you feel the sound quality improves compared to when you use the attenuator ?

What impedances do you think need 'matching' and what do you consider 'matching' ?
 
OP
E

ethanhallbeyer

Active Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2019
Messages
175
Likes
50
When you use your system without the MPatch or have the volume control set to max. do you feel the sound quality improves compared to when you use the attenuator ?

What impedances do you think need 'matching' and what do you consider 'matching' ?

I haven't tried without the MPatch to compare but may do so once I get all of the components together. Should I be setting the volume knob to max and controlling volume with the source pc/tablet's software player's volume control?

I don't know the answer to your second question, it's part of why I'm asking on here.. I know next to nothing about it.
 

solderdude

Grand Contributor
Joined
Jul 21, 2018
Messages
16,068
Likes
36,479
Location
The Neitherlands
Should I be setting the volume knob to max and controlling volume with the source pc/tablet's software player's volume control?

Yes, That would be best. When your volume control range is too small (unlikely) or the amp blasts loudly while still a long way from digital '0' attenuation you can use the passive volume control.

Depending on what amp you put it in front of the effect will differ.

There is nothing to 'match' impedance wise. The only question mark here is the passive volume control.
 
Top Bottom