Well, JTR is direct to the consumer. You'll notice is other brand (RTJ) is higher priced to account for dealer margin so that they can afford to sell, support and install them.The price on the Perlisten seems stark raving insane to me, JTR 100%.
Isn’t that a form factor question more than anything else?Perlisten D215S vs JTR RS2
which would you guys go for?
If they fit a cutout originally spec’ed for an Aurasound NS18-794-4A, I’d be interested. Even though in all honesty I can’t say I’d pass a blind test between the old NS18 (when it worked) and the BMS 18n850 that replaced it. I never come close to the limits of either (in a system with multiple subs). But that doesn’t mean more might be welcome!I'm looking at doing some 18" subs but I'm unsure of the hifi market for them. I designed a woofer with similar excursion (+/- 35 mm) but really low inductance and linear motor force but a lot of high end hifi guys think larger drivers are "slower" when it's actually the frequency response, inductance and other factors (not cone size).
As others mentioned, JTR 100%.
If you have money to spend at around Perlisten values, i would look at harbottleaudio, for example this 24" offer
Another option, which won't go as deep as the JTR or the harbottleaudio, but should be amazing for music, would be the PSA sealed offers with B&C drivers:
Top Rated Home Theater Subwoofers
Discover the best home theater subwoofers. Made in America.www.powersoundaudio.com
We can sort of compare the two with objective dataPerhaps there's something I don't know here, but wouldn't a sub like the PSA S42 IPAL be able to go at least as deep as the RS2, given that it's built with dual 21" B&C drivers in a sealed design? Tom lists 6-9hz in-room extension, which is mind-boggling to me.
If you're not reaching the limits of the BMS, a woofer with 3X the excursion might actually perform a bit worse in some ways (upper bass punch and output of a pro driver).Isn’t that a form factor question more than anything else?
If they fit a cutout originally spec’ed for an Aurasound NS18-794-4A, I’d be interested. Even though in all honesty I can’t say I’d pass a blind test between the old NS18 (when it worked) and the BMS 18n850 that replaced it. I never come close to the limits of either (in a system with multiple subs). But that doesn’t mean more might be welcome!
We can sort of compare the two with objective data
Databass measured the old (2016) JTR S2, as well as a DIY version (sealed dual opposed B&C IPAL 21) of the PSA S42 IPAL.
The new JTR RS2 should be a step up from the old S2, and on the RS2 page its mentioned that the new 18" woofers are equivalent to 21" with 26 xmax (the B&C IPAL have 22mm).
So the RS2 should have some advantage bellow 40Hz, but the S42 IPAL will have a major advantage > 40Hz.
For movies the RS2 is probably a better option, although for the same price the 4000ULF is probably unbeaten
Given the OP has only selected sealed subs, i would assume his priority is music, and for that the S42 IPAL should be amazing!
I got two 18n862 never been soo much happy about it they are ported 150liters, they are not giant
Dependes on what you need i get from 25hz flat if i want i could eq some db hnder it but i dont need itPriority is films and pairing well with my Perlisten speakers. I don't know why I have gone down the sealed route as I've always owned ported. Probably because I wanted ULF extension with room gain.
I've looked into these but they won't offer the same infrasonics as my Monoltih 15 V2s from my research.
Priority is films and pairing well with my Perlisten speakers.
They will, if you use a ported box.I've looked into these but they won't offer the same infrasonics as my Monoltih 15 V2s from my research.
The design I'm doing so far isn't neo and so it's a giant 90 pound ceramic driver that has similar dimensions to the TC sounds LMS5400 (same frame and motor OD) but is using an XBL motor.
You could reverse mount one of the JTR drivers in one of the units. The box volume occupied by the driver isn't super important to the tuning etc. (especially with room EQ etc.). just stack the min the same location and you get the 2nd harmonic reduction of the Perlisten, if you want. you'd have the punch a little hole in the box (nicely) to run the hook up wiring.I have a Perlisten home theater, 2xS7t fronts, 1xS7c Center, 4xs4s surrounds, and 4xs3ic ceiling. I am currently using a pair of Monoprice V12 subs. I am about to upgrade my subs and I find myself in a similar position. I am drawn to the two of the D212s subs but the cost is so high. I am also considering a pair of the JTR Captivator RS1's instead. the reviewers have praised push pull so highly and I sort of want to keep it all the same brand for some OCD reason. If you TAKE COST OUT OF THE EQUATION, is it better to have a pair of JTR captivator RS1's or a pair of Perlisten D212s's? The room is 25' long x 16' wide x 8' tall.