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Perlisten D215S vs JTR RS2
- Thread starter aoaaron
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ernestcarl
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I would pick the “monster” as it’s probably cheaper and louder so better value for the amount of money spent — uber ultra low distortion in a sub is just a “meh” to “okay” feature for me.
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I used to do a couple of woofers for Jeff about 15 years ago (with his Growler pro audio sub). I convinced him to use the current woofer supplier that's doing the custom drivers for him and he does a great job. You're looking at woofers with a nearly 40% larger cone area and a bigger box and similar excursion etc and and amp with huge sustained power and the JTR will walk away with things.
I'm looking at doing some 18" subs but I'm unsure of the hifi market for them. I designed a woofer with similar excursion (+/- 35 mm) but really low inductance and linear motor force but a lot of high end hifi guys think larger drivers are "slower" when it's actually the frequency response, inductance and other factors (not cone size).
I'm looking at doing some 18" subs but I'm unsure of the hifi market for them. I designed a woofer with similar excursion (+/- 35 mm) but really low inductance and linear motor force but a lot of high end hifi guys think larger drivers are "slower" when it's actually the frequency response, inductance and other factors (not cone size).
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Well, JTR is direct to the consumer. You'll notice is other brand (RTJ) is higher priced to account for dealer margin so that they can afford to sell, support and install them.
Perlisten is probably a 50 point line to dealers (as are many hifi brands) and likely has a much higher overhead with a full design team and sales etc. Also, while the dual driver push/pull approach does reduce 2nd harmonic distortion, it is more expensive than a single, larger driver. Perlisten has announced some single driver subs at CEDIA that are substantially less expensive.
As others mentioned, JTR 100%.
If you have money to spend at around Perlisten values, i would look at harbottleaudio, for example this 24" offer
Another option, which won't go as deep as the JTR or the harbottleaudio, but should be amazing for music, would be the PSA sealed offers with B&C drivers:
If you have money to spend at around Perlisten values, i would look at harbottleaudio, for example this 24" offer
Another option, which won't go as deep as the JTR or the harbottleaudio, but should be amazing for music, would be the PSA sealed offers with B&C drivers:
Top Rated Home Theater Subwoofers
Discover the best home theater subwoofers. Made in America.
www.powersoundaudio.com
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Isn’t that a form factor question more than anything else?
If they fit a cutout originally spec’ed for an Aurasound NS18-794-4A, I’d be interested. Even though in all honesty I can’t say I’d pass a blind test between the old NS18 (when it worked) and the BMS 18n850 that replaced it. I never come close to the limits of either (in a system with multiple subs). But that doesn’t mean more might be welcome!
biciklanto
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As others mentioned, JTR 100%.
If you have money to spend at around Perlisten values, i would look at harbottleaudio, for example this 24" offer
Another option, which won't go as deep as the JTR or the harbottleaudio, but should be amazing for music, would be the PSA sealed offers with B&C drivers:
Top Rated Home Theater Subwoofers
Discover the best home theater subwoofers. Made in America.www.powersoundaudio.com
Perhaps there's something I don't know here, but wouldn't a sub like the PSA S42 IPAL be able to go at least as deep as the RS2, given that it's built with dual 21" B&C drivers in a sealed design? Tom lists 6-9hz in-room extension, which is mind-boggling to me.
We can sort of compare the two with objective data
Databass measured the old (2016) JTR S2, as well as a DIY version (sealed dual opposed B&C IPAL 21) of the PSA S42 IPAL.
The new JTR RS2 should be a step up from the old S2, and on the RS2 page its mentioned that the new 18" woofers are equivalent to 21" with 26 xmax (the B&C IPAL have 22mm).
So the RS2 should have some advantage bellow 40Hz, but the S42 IPAL will have a major advantage > 40Hz.
For movies the RS2 is probably a better option, although for the same price the 4000ULF is probably unbeaten
Given the OP has only selected sealed subs, i would assume his priority is music, and for that the S42 IPAL should be amazing!
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If you're not reaching the limits of the BMS, a woofer with 3X the excursion might actually perform a bit worse in some ways (upper bass punch and output of a pro driver).Isn’t that a form factor question more than anything else?
If they fit a cutout originally spec’ed for an Aurasound NS18-794-4A, I’d be interested. Even though in all honesty I can’t say I’d pass a blind test between the old NS18 (when it worked) and the BMS 18n850 that replaced it. I never come close to the limits of either (in a system with multiple subs). But that doesn’t mean more might be welcome!
The design I'm doing so far isn't neo and so it's a giant 90 pound ceramic driver that has similar dimensions to the TC sounds LMS5400 (same frame and motor OD) but is using an XBL motor.
I don't think we'll be selling the driver separately but maybe we will. Paul considered that with some of our other drivers as a way to showcase the technology. The problem with DIY subs is that newer or less sophisticated guys occasionally get stupid and blow up their sub (because it's not a finished design with proper protection and limiting) and expect you to replace/fix it for free. Home theater guys are not quite as bad as car audio guys but hifi/studio guys are significantly better about turning something something down if it's clipping or heavily distorted.
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Those PSA subs are hard to beat if you don't mind a big ugly box or are hiding it behind a screen wall or something. It's very impressive what he's offering for the money.
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We can sort of compare the two with objective data
Databass measured the old (2016) JTR S2, as well as a DIY version (sealed dual opposed B&C IPAL 21) of the PSA S42 IPAL.
The new JTR RS2 should be a step up from the old S2, and on the RS2 page its mentioned that the new 18" woofers are equivalent to 21" with 26 xmax (the B&C IPAL have 22mm).
So the RS2 should have some advantage bellow 40Hz, but the S42 IPAL will have a major advantage > 40Hz.
For movies the RS2 is probably a better option, although for the same price the 4000ULF is probably unbeaten
Given the OP has only selected sealed subs, i would assume his priority is music, and for that the S42 IPAL should be amazing!
Priority is films and pairing well with my Perlisten speakers. I don't know why I have gone down the sealed route as I've always owned ported. Probably because I wanted ULF extension with room gain.
I've looked into these but they won't offer the same infrasonics as my Monoltih 15 V2s from my research.
Dependes on what you need i get from 25hz flat if i want i could eq some db hnder it but i dont need it
In that case, have you looked into the 4000ULF?
They will, if you use a ported box.
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Ouch. IMO an expensive driver shouldn't have a mud magnet. If the pole itself is a neo slug (a la Purifi) that's a reasonable exception to the general rule.
NS18 at ~45 lbs give or take was already a huge pain to take out of the cabinet. (IIRC it wasn't much if any lighter than the Exodus Maelstrom-X it replaced; so much steel in Aurasound's motors!) BMS at half the weight is about right. Even a JBL 2269H is about 20 lbs less.
I have a Perlisten home theater, 2xS7t fronts, 1xS7c Center, 4xs4s surrounds, and 4xs3ic ceiling. I am currently using a pair of Monoprice V12 subs. I am about to upgrade my subs and I find myself in a similar position. I am drawn to the two of the D212s subs but the cost is so high. I am also considering a pair of the JTR Captivator RS1's instead. the reviewers have praised push pull so highly and I sort of want to keep it all the same brand for some OCD reason. If you TAKE COST OUT OF THE EQUATION, is it better to have a pair of JTR captivator RS1's or a pair of Perlisten D212s's? The room is 25' long x 16' wide x 8' tall.
Two of these for $4k is all anyone would ever need: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=38543
If you really want to spend $8k buy four.
Martin
If you really want to spend $8k buy four.
Martin
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You could reverse mount one of the JTR drivers in one of the units. The box volume occupied by the driver isn't super important to the tuning etc. (especially with room EQ etc.). just stack the min the same location and you get the 2nd harmonic reduction of the Perlisten, if you want. you'd have the punch a little hole in the box (nicely) to run the hook up wiring.