Klipsch spec'd sensitivity is overstated by 4-5dB compared to what most others do (Klipsch uses an "in-room" equivalent spec).
Klipsch spec'd sensitivity is overstated by 4-5dB compared to what most others do (Klipsch uses an "in-room" equivalent spec).
Not necessarily. You need to go 10x in power to roughly double the percieved volume.You mean I'm getting that much sound from a 1/3 of a watt? The SPL meter said 60dB at 1 meter. I just used an app for me phone so it could be totally wrong. This means that 25 watts would be WAY more than most people would ever need.
Lets ignore phase for the time being (if there is a phase shift between current and voltage, then your power is not apparent I times apparent V). Speakers are complex impdeance loads so measuring real power is difficult unless you have a true power meter.I read the whole thread but didnt understand much.
When i herar music very loud i can measure 13 Volts at the speaker inputs ans about 2,5 ampre current (peak) . What does this mean?
I try to find out how strong my amp has to be.
The Amp i used is rated 250/500 8/4 Ohms and the clipping diode sometimes lighted up.
How can this be if i only use 32,5 WAtt at 5.2 Ohms .
Or would it be easier to measure the power input of the amp (class D)
Regards
I read the whole thread but didnt understand much.
When i herar music very loud i can measure 13 Volts at the speaker inputs ans about 2,5 ampre current (peak) . What does this mean?
I try to find out how strong my amp has to be.
The Amp i used is rated 250/500 8/4 Ohms and the clipping diode sometimes lighted up.
How can this be if i only use 32,5 WAtt at 5.2 Ohms .
Or would it be easier to measure the power input of the amp (class D)
Regards
As long as the sound quality does not get 'worse' at the highest levels you want to listen to there is no need to go for a more powerful amp.
Also, as hearing is close to logarithmic to go noticeable louder you need to at least triple or quadruple the amp output rating and keep the recommended power rating of the speaker manufacturer in mind.
Measuring something is only useful when done right (correct signals, measurement gear and protocols) otherwise it is somewhat indicative at best.
The Question for me was probably using also an Purifi ET400 or NCx500 or Hypex NIlai Modules couse they are probably much better than the icepower/Pascal.
Are my measurement not good enough to say I can also go with an NCx500 Stereo or Dual MOna Amp instead of the Pascal/Icepower????
Better specs than the current amps will not translate to better sound quality. It will just be measurably better on paper and manufacturers like that want to push the limits of technical performance and sell more modules.
Your measurements say nothing really. To see if you are clipping anything you need better suited test equipment.
Lets ignore phase for the time being (if there is a phase shift between current and voltage, then your power is not apparent I times apparent V). Speakers are complex impdeance loads so measuring real power is difficult unless you have a true power meter.
But then:
1 - how are you measuring peak current? If using a meter type device it is very unlikely to be capturing the real transient peaks.
2 - How are you measuring the voltage? A simple meter may not be giving an accurate RMS reading for a music waveform.
3 - But let's take your 13 volts RMS/Average at face value and assuming 6ohm (nominal speakers) that is going to be in the order of 30W (again ignoring phase effects). Let's say. your music has dynamics of up to 15 dB - so that would be transient peaks in power of 30x2^5 = 960W (Every 3dB is a doubling in power).
The amp modules will clip at the specified numbers by the manufacturer.
To measure that you need suited measurement gear and loads.
Drawn power from mains will tell you nothing as peak powers are drawn from reservoir caps inside the amp and are not drawn directly from mains.
Clipping indicators on amps themselves are the only valuable thing, providing they trigger at least a monostable multivibrator that is long enough to make a LED blink long enough visually.
When one is obsessed about clipping buy yourself a cheap O-scope and learn to use it properly.
All the guessing and measuring with not suited test gear/signals is rather pointless IMO.
When you need the sound to go noticeably louder you need to increase the power 2 to 3 fold at least.
Adding a few percent in power won't help.
Or should i stay with my old Front Amps they are Powerfull enough and dont clip.
And the Question if i hear a difference to the hypex i think no.
What Ocilloscope should i buy ?
^^this is the best way to do a measurement of actual VAR delivered to a speaker.Below is the schematic for measuring the speaker impedance from ANSI/CTA-2034. It can also be used to measure the power into the speaker. You use a 2 channelDACADC (or oscilloscope or data acquisition system) to measure voltages V1 and V2. V1 is the voltage across the speaker, and V2 along with R_sense, gives the current. You can ignore Z_w (speaker wire resistance) and S2 (back EMF voltage from the reactive speaker load). R_sense, the current sense resistor, is typically 0.1 ohm. For Figure 9:
Voltage acrossdummy loadspeaker = V1Current acrossdummy loadspeaker = V2 / R_sense
View attachment 276109
Below is an example (voltage and current into a power supply) of the type of data you can expect for a complex waveform into a complex load.
View attachment 276112
Apparent power is calculated as the RMS voltage times the RMS current (over a certain period of time). Real (active) power is the time averaged product of instantaneous voltage and current. Power factor is the ratio of the real power to apparent power, which is also the cosine of the phase angle between voltage and current.
View attachment 276111
440 kilohertz is not audio, it is RF.Something must be wrong. I set up a 440kH sine and measured from the speaker outs on the amp, but it was only 2.9mV. I had to use the 200mV setting on the DMM to get anything. What measurement did I screw up?