I have been using these two as controlled power strips for different rooms. There are more complicated solutions using triggered strips or strips that provide triggers , etc. Or power strips with their own remote. I just wanted to keep it simple.
https://www.tricklestar.com/news/tier-1-tier-2-advanced-powerstrips-aps-what-s-the-difference.html
Which one to use depends a lot on the specific amp and the behavior of the unit that you want to be the control. Lots of different amps out there to provide a universal solution.
Does the amp have a trigger in? Does the amp come on when powered in standby mode or fully powered mode? Does your control device have a trigger out? Does your control unit come on in standby mode or fully on (or does it come fully on initialize and then switch to standby mode)? Does you power amp have a soft power-on or is it going to pop your speakers every time it comes on? Does your power amp have a remote? So many variables.
(Tip: These are ridiculously priced on Amazon or from the manufacturer. In the US, many of the local power supply companies heavily subsidize them or even fully subsidize them, so check your supplier's web site for energy efficient rebates/store first. Even if your company doesn't have it, there is a market out there on eBay where people living in these areas, keep buying subsidized ones and sell them new at reasonable prices)
If that power strip wears off, then it is cheap to replace.
One important difference between the two above is that in Tier 1, the power to the control unit itself remains on when others are turned off. It senses the power difference between on and off/standby. But in Tier 2 strip, the power to the control unit is switched off as well after it is sent to standby so you cannot have it left on standby.
Which one will work for you depends on your control unit and whether you want it to be off or in standby. Sometimes the latter is preferable if it is a TV or a pre-amp that is network connected. The Tier 2 is quirky with a IR and Motion sensor (latter can be disabled) but powers off the control unit as well after one minute when you power it off with remote or send it to standby. The first IR click with everything turned off will power on everything. Which works fine unless you have another IR based system in the room whose use will also turn this on when in off stage! And it will turn off everything after a time-out without sensing any IR signal (max 2 hours setting). It is a usability mess but just what you need depending on your configuration and requirements.
I prefer the control unit on standby with trigger out to control other units rather than have the power yanked out of all when they are fully on.