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IOTAVX SA3 Integrated Amplifier

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Too much gain. About 32 dB total, which is too much for a CD player. I'm thinking of getting a DAC/preamp to run straight into the power amp (except I know nothing about the options) or else get some Rothwell 10dB attenuators. But it's very attractive and quite elegant--actually a bit delicate in person, which surprised me.

Wait. What?
Do I have to go back and read it all over?
It's an integrated, no? If yes, where are you connecting the CD player? What the? A CD player should be similar too a tape deck. It doesn't amplify the signal that much. What am I missing?
Yes, an outboard DAC would be better for the sound, but the amount of gain would be the same I believe. Oh well. What do I know
 

TXinD76121

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It's an integrated, no? If yes, where are you connecting the CD player? What the? A CD player should be similar too a tape deck. It doesn't amplify the signal that much. What am I missing?
Yes, an outboard DAC would be better for the sound, but the amount of gain would be the same I believe. Oh well. What do I know

I had hoped someone else would answer, as I'm no expert.

As you know, a volume control is one of the most important features of an analog stereo for sound quality. There are various implementations and some of them are very expensive. That's because it's important.

One of the basics of system building is gain matching, so that the volume control can operate in the optimal area of its range--not too far toward either extreme. And this is easy to diagnose--basically, you want your volume control at about the 12 o'clock position, i.e., the middle of its range, when listening at normal background listening levels. The Musical Fidelity A3.5 appears to have 12 dB of gain in its linestage section and 30 dB of gain in its power amp section, 42 dB total. CD players--my main source for this system--can have four times the output voltage of a normal line source. 42 dB of gain is just too much for a CD player in my system. I end up with the volume knob at 8 or 9 o'clock for normal listening--just a little past nothing--and when it's at 10 o'clock it's already too loud. At these positions the volume knob is not passing the signal very well--stereo tracking is at its worst, and the volume knob is touchy, with very slight changes in position creating large changes in volume. Not ideal.

By using a DAC/preamp with its own volume control and running it into the HT Bypass inputs on the integrated, which is essentially a "main in," or "preamp in," I would theoretically be bypassing the preamp section in the A3.5 and just using its power amp, but it would decrease the system gain by eliminating the 12 dB of gain in the preamp section of the integrated.

I think, anyway. I don't know how a DAC/preamp handles gain or how much any particular one contributes to system gain. It would be easy to figure out if I just had one and hooked it up, but I'm not really sure how to calculate it from spec sheets. Especially when some spec sheets don't give the needed figures. And I really don't know anything about digital audio.

For a CD player input, you want the amplification to contribute about 22 or 23 dB of gain.

It's possible that the excessive gain of the A3.5 is the explanation why it was discontinued so quickly. I think it was only sold for a year or two.

If any actual expert wants to correct any of the above, or suggest alternate solutions for me, I'm all ears.

Mike
 

Justaniota

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Found this forum by chance whilst looking for DAC ideas to add to my iota set up. I have bi amped the PA3 and SA3 and the result seems to me to be a huge improvement. I’m using an Audiolab 6000N streamer, Rel T zero and Proac tablets

73964271-CE32-4727-AD48-B1C161E16F3C.jpeg
 
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wje

wje

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Found this forum by chance whilst looking for DAC ideas to add to my iota set up. I have bi amped the PA3 and SA3 and the result seems to me to be a huge improvement. I’m using an Audiolab 6000N streamer, Rel T zero and Proac tablets

So, you're still looking for a DAC? Read the reviews here on the site of the Khadas Tone Board. A $99 DAC, plus about $15.00 more for a basic acrylic case. I use the Khadas Tone Board in between my Bluesound Node 2+ and IOTAVX SA3. I use the built-in DAC in the SA3 when streaming audio from my TV when I want extra sound that the TV speakers can't provide for some situations.
 

djigibao

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Found this forum by chance whilst looking for DAC ideas to add to my iota set up. I have bi amped the PA3 and SA3 and the result seems to me to be a huge improvement. I’m using an Audiolab 6000N streamer, Rel T zero and Proac tablets

View attachment 72589

Nice absorber/diffuser, where did you buy them?
 

Roque Soprano

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IOTAVX SA3 arrived today!
Initial impressions are that build quality is great, better than I expected from pictures. Everything worked well and sound is good.
Need to test more in the coming days but happy with my purchase so far. Was thinking if I need PA3 but no way I'm listening that loud paired with Buchardt S300 that I would need more power. Need to evaluate whether adding PA3 has enough benefits as I think I have enough headroom still. Most likely will invest in something else than PA3.

If posible, would you mind sharing your evaluation matching s300 and Iotavx. Thanks in advance!
 

daRillist

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Has anyone tried to use the balance on the SA3? I think I have a problem as when I go extreme left or right, I still can hear a lot of music in the alternate channel. The only reason I even found it was that I seemed to have a left channel bias on the music and played around with the balance and could never get either of the channels get close to zero volume. I have never had a product that had so much leakage with the balance control. Usually you can get to zero volume by going to the extremes on the knob. I can literally get a stereo image from the music with the control at L-10 or R-10 settings
 

aq111

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IOTAVX SA3 - Overheating problem?

Excuse me coming to this thread with something slightly off topic but I'm not getting any replies to my other post in the forum. I'm trying to find someone who owns one of these to ask about a possible overheating problem...

I've had this amp for 3 weeks and the top of it feels hotter (subjective I know) than any previous amp I've owned. I originally had it positioned with a CD player sitting on top of it, which obviously didn't help the cooling, and the top was too hot to comfortably keep my hand on it for very long. The front panel was also very warm. I now have it free standing on a shelf with nothing above. It has cooled down somewhat but the top still feels very warm to the touch, though I can now comfortably keep my hand on it, and the front panel is just slightly warm. I've seen videos of these amps in a stack or sitting inside cabinets - I wouldn't feel comfortable doing that with something that runs this hot.

The amp is driving a pair of 90 db, 8 ohm speakers in a 4m x 4m room. I listen at low to medium volume levels. Never go beyond -30 db on the amp's volume display.

I sent an email to the manufacturer 2 weeks ago but have had no response, so I thought I would try here before phoning them.

Thank you.
 

Frank Dernie

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IOTAVX SA3 - Overheating problem?

Excuse me coming to this thread with something slightly off topic but I'm not getting any replies to my other post in the forum. I'm trying to find someone who owns one of these to ask about a possible overheating problem...

I've had this amp for 3 weeks and the top of it feels hotter (subjective I know) than any previous amp I've owned. I originally had it positioned with a CD player sitting on top of it, which obviously didn't help the cooling, and the top was too hot to comfortably keep my hand on it for very long. The front panel was also very warm. I now have it free standing on a shelf with nothing above. It has cooled down somewhat but the top still feels very warm to the touch, though I can now comfortably keep my hand on it, and the front panel is just slightly warm. I've seen videos of these amps in a stack or sitting inside cabinets - I wouldn't feel comfortable doing that with something that runs this hot.

The amp is driving a pair of 90 db, 8 ohm speakers in a 4m x 4m room. I listen at low to medium volume levels. Never go beyond -30 db on the amp's volume display.

I sent an email to the manufacturer 2 weeks ago but have had no response, so I thought I would try here before phoning them.

Thank you.
I would imagine that is fine.
A class A/B amplifier is bound to run warmer than class-D.
If you can leave your hand on it it actually isn't above 50C.
Never put anything on top of an amplifier.
 

aq111

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I would imagine that is fine.
A class A/B amplifier is bound to run warmer than class-D.
If you can leave your hand on it it actually isn't above 50C.
Never put anything on top of an amplifier.

Thank you that is good advice. I used to have a CD player on top of my old Arcam Alpha 8R for 15 years and the top plate of the amp was barely warm, so that's what I'm comparing it with, which may not be a fair comparison. The Arcam had no air vents on top but the Iota does, so I think you are right about leaving it uncovered, I should have realised that. I had no idea that if you could leave your hand on a surface it would be under 50C. That's useful to know. It feels hotter but obviously isn't.
 

Alenergy

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Found this forum by chance whilst looking for DAC ideas to add to my iota set up. I have bi amped the PA3 and SA3 and the result seems to me to be a huge improvement. I’m using an Audiolab 6000N streamer, Rel T zero and Proac tablets

View attachment 72589
First to say, sorry for my bad english!! I have the SA3/PA3 in bridged mode, Triangle Borea BR08 column speakers and SMSL SU-9 DAC (i use Roon and a Raspberry connected to the DAC as Roon Bridge). The sound is just great, very neutral, articulated. The HiRes and MQA sources sound impressive(by Qobuz and Tidal accounts trough Roon). Before the SU-9 i had used different Dac Hats on the Pi4 but the sound is not comparable to the SU-9. Also the BR08 are a very nice match for the SA3/PA3 stack. All system for less than $3,000 I think is a bargain. My next investment would be a good AC power filter
 

zaneisland

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If posible, would you mind sharing your evaluation matching s300 and Iotavx. Thanks in advance!

Missed this and replying months late!

For me this match is great. I think S300 are great speakers but they tend to be 'bit' bass heavy. Therefore I wouldn't want to enhance that feat with amp in my setup. Here IOTAVX is doing great and keeps the bass as balanced as possible. Still have bit boom issues as I cannot get my S300 enough far away from walls. I like the soundstage and clarify of IOTAVX, as many reviews already tell, it doesn't affect the sound too much. In a good way it's kind of invisible amp :D

Maybe the DAC part could be better but power amplifier stage is really good in my opinion. Also biggest gripe for me is that I would want amp to wake up when it gets audio signal without having to find the remote.
 

ESteve Lasteve

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IOTAVX SA3 arrived today!
Initial impressions are that build quality is great, better than I expected from pictures. Everything worked well and sound is good.
Need to test more in the coming days but happy with my purchase so far. Was thinking if I need PA3 but no way I'm listening that loud paired with Buchardt S300 that I would need more power. Need to evaluate whether adding PA3 has enough benefits as I think I have enough headroom still. Most likely will invest in something else than PA3.
Hello, I am new here. I received the SA3 and have been listening to it for a little over a week now. I've noticed that when I turn the balance all the way to the right, some sound still comes from the left and vice versa. I don't know if this is normal or not. Bridgiging switch is set to "stereo". Can you tell me if this ocours on yours as well?
 

jmillar

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So, let me get this straight. Instead of 100wpc for each speaker, you want a 45W bi-amp per channel/speaker? I've never done this (and I'm not going to), but just set the switch to "stereo" on both SA3 and PA3; connect RCA cable from Pre-out of SA3 to Amp-in of PA3, then connect SA3 speaker wires to the top connectors of the speakers, and the PA3 to the bottom. It should do it. Try it and report back.

It should work. Of course (unless you filter) you are sending the same signal to each speaker input, bass and treble (Removing the speaker terminal "jumpers", of course.)
How does the crossover work within the speaker itself in this configuration? Does it do the necessary filtering?

Or must the signal be "crossovered" using miniDSP or similar before power amplification, so that one amp handles treble, and the other, bass? (4 amps total)

Biamping seems to make the most sense if you use separate amps for bass and treble for each of the different drivers (as in most powered speakers).
What is to be gained by biamping if you don't split the two frequency ranges feeding them to dedicated amps?

How exactly does the speaker crossover behave when you remove the external jumpers? Does it do filtering duties for each driver?

Sorry to sound naive, but this is an unusual configuration.
 
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Nainghsy

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Hi Gurus , I would like to check is there a way to bypass IOTAVX SA3 DAC ? I understand SA3 has weak DAC. I already has Cambridge DACMagic100. So I’m trying to connect DACMagic100 RCA out to SA3 . However I don‘t get the logic which DAC will drive my speakers (Broea BR03) or SA3 ? Please advise . Much appreciate for your help.
 
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