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if the sony sscs5's are made out of MDF then by god it's good enough for me.....
Using different materials , as in 8381 can probably be beneficial.So in effect what you are saying is that you would like speakers to be even more expensive without audible benefits. I'm sure Magico and the likes are thrilled to hear that, but I'm not sure I understand why.
EDIT: I understand it for products that are expensive (and make expensive design choices) just for the sake of being able to sell in the luxury segment, but that's not what the 8381 is.
There are different grades of MDF. It can be super solid. Also a simple matter of the thickness of the material.So you're saying MDF is not compromised SQ wise compared to any other material ?
I very loosely ran the numbers on this and I think you can use concrete at about 1/4 the thickness of MDF and come away with similar stiffness. This gets you a similar weight for the object as well, since the density is around 4x.But would it actually be crazy heavy for the same stiffness? I suspect not. For example I’d expect a 3/4” panel of MDF to have similar stiffness to a 1/4” thick dense concrete panel?
I don’t know…but the advantage of “any shape” is huge IMO.
They did make some!Concrete can take any shape and is stiff.
Why not concrete?
How does HDPE compare to MDF in performance? I just made some speakers out of 19mm MDF (38mm baffle). I got curious about HDPE but it looks like the price is 5 to 10 times the equivalent in MDF.There are multilayer composites made with MDF, too. David Smith era Snells used two layers of MDF with a damping later in between. Earl Geddes used that approach on Gedlee speakers as well. The newer damped bracing designs from e.g. KEF seem to be a more efficient means of doing the same thing.
Personally I don’t much care for MDF, though I won’t throw my Revel Gem2’s out for being made of the stuff, either. The corners get damaged easily and when I thought I could build cabinets I hated working with it. All of the wood speaker cabinets I’ve commissioned in the last decade or so have been Baltic Birch or a domestic hardwood ply called Appleply. Prices have risen since then so I don’t know what I would spec if I were to commission something now.
There are also other materials to consider. One is HDPE board (Starboard). I’ve had a couple subwoofer cabinets built from 1/2 Starboard (double thickness baffles) and they’re great. Geddes switched over from constrained MDF to a polyurethane board called Renshape. I’m not sure anyone currently uses that.
Concrete has ringing issues. So bracing and damping can get complicated. It also isn’t very strong in certain directions without reinforcement (hence rebar), which introduces a lot of complexity. Like you say the Ada vantage is shape, but casting can become very complicated, requiring bladders etc. and a lot of labor to both maIndian the casts and finish the concrete.But would it actually be crazy heavy for the same stiffness? I suspect not. For example I’d expect a 3/4” panel of MDF to have similar stiffness to a 1/4” thick dense concrete panel?
I don’t know…but the advantage of “any shape” is huge IMO.
Just wait until Genelec offers the MDF knock-down economy version of the 8381A.How can you tell if it's a quality MDF or some IKEA stuff ?
What makes you think IKEA stuff isn’t quality MDF?How can you tell if it's a quality MDF or some IKEA stuff ?
What makes you think IKEA stuff isn’t quality MDF?
But it's already MDFJust wait until Genelec offers the MDF knock-down economy version of the 8381A.
Of course!I'd say that it is myopic to just look at the cabinet material to try establish if something is a better or worse speaker. Clearly the material is a design choice as well as a reflection of the price target you shoot for - as are all the other choices.... inhouse or OEM woofers or tweeters... quality of the crossovers... etc etc