Tim Link
Addicted to Fun and Learning
Like what?A.classic collapsing polar. In those cases, there are other designs that are clearly better than horn IMO.
Like what?A.classic collapsing polar. In those cases, there are other designs that are clearly better than horn IMO.
Thanks to people like Marcel (and others) who have given away horn/waveguide design software (ATH) for free, one can do good DIY system designs (with good horns/waveguides) easily, at home these days.
Here is a simple example of what one can cook up at home on a small PC at home in a few hours.
Device width x height = 346.46 x 287.46 mm (13.640 x 11.317")
Device length = 115.00 mm (4.528")
40mm roundovers on all sides 25cm depth to the box..
A prototype MEH version of the above horn (I know the measurement mic mounting is not optimal )
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horizontal polar measurements from prototype and sample crossover
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Match between BEM simulations and measurements
Dotted line below is the SP DI from SIM
solid line is from actual measurements..
Concept full system design (using dual 15inch drivers for taking care of lower frequencies in Genelec W371 style controlled directivity bass module)
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Sample predicted polars of the full system with the above MEH horn
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Woofer module cabinet in real
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Well in the real world I changed the color of the woofer module cabinets to white..
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ThankyouIncredible!
A modular, configurable directivity system was the goal..Iam guessing low distortion at high spl?
Hi there, what are the drive units on this baby?A prototype MEH version of the above horn (I know the measurement mic mounting is not optimal )
That is a B&C DE 360 compression driver + B&C 4NDF3416 (4 nos)Hi there, what are the drive units on this baby?
what
A lesson I keep learning about high frequency horns is that I don't like them too phyiscally near to anything else. My high frequency horns always sounded a bit odd when I had them sitting flush with the mouth of my bass horn. Moving them forward just a few inches really cleared things up. More recently I've placed them a full foot forward on their own speaker stands, and that brought things to a new level. Now tonight I moved them another 10" forward, and it's just amazing how open and clear they've become. I would not call this colored at all. Very detailed and lush, captivating and beautiful. Strangely, the bass seems clearer and tighter too. I gues the overtones are just clearer integrating better. What I've got is nothing super fancy, just a BL-409 horn bought off of Parts Express for dirt cheap, and hooked up to some JBL 2426h drivers, and then EQ'd using DSP, crossed over at 900 Hz. Maybe not perfect but at this point I'm really having a hard time complaining about the high frequency response. I've heard the JBL HDI series and some of their bigger ones like the 4367. Those sound slightly like horns typically sound to me, especially the 4367. Now I'm wondering if it's just the fact that the horn is right next to and flush with the woofer.Or you haven't heard a quality horn yet... I lean towards that, and especially since you are talking about coloration. That's indication of a horn that's poorly designed.
Is there really no penalty to having extra holes along the sides of the horn flare?
At least on this particular horn, there are some side effects..Is there really no penalty to having extra holes along the sides of the horn flare?
uneven directivity over frequency and narrowing at high frequencies to a pencil beam width.
But they are all highly directional
Tweeters do the same thing, all high frequency devices' power response falls off at high frequencies.Well these horns beamed the high frequencies like a laser.
At least on this particular horn, there are some side effects..
In the above measurements, I used only the drivers at the top and bottom and not the ones on the sides. I had closed the mid taps on the side walls using cellophane tape.. Here are more details about the impact of taps (top/sides) on the CD response
Below is an on axis response plot of the DE 360 on the waveguide in 3 cases
1) All mid ports open (red, lot of wiggles)
2) Side mid ports closed (green, much less wiggles)
3) All mid ports closed (blue, slightly better than above but not by much)
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This is the reason why I have changed the location of mid taps on the latest iteration of this MEH as shown below
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For dome tweeters loaded in to horns, it seems the thing to do is push the motor strength up in a way that in free air the upper end of the tweeter's frequency range is very sensitive and efficient, with a constantly rolling off response as the frequency goes down. When it's loaded into a CD horn, the response will flatten as the horn brings the sagging midrange response up.The way to do things is really to have a constant directivity, which means a falling response at high frequencies. But in an active system, this can be crossovered/EQ'd out. In a passive system the horn (or waveguided tweeter) would generally be much more sensitive in the midrange than the woofer, and a high crossover frequency should flatten the overall response but with more constant directivity. That's what we are at long hallelujah last starting to see from some makers. Even finally in the budget realm (Monolith) where you can get so much benefit by deepening the plastic ring around a tweeter into a waveguide for minimal additional cost.
Looks like a great project. They are going for smooth, resonant free response, but not necessarily flat response. The fact that it's intended to be adapatable to a variety of waveguides with different dispersion rates suggest it will still need EQ. Maybe it won't if you pick a particular dispersion rate.
There is a new 3D model available if you want to try constant polars:A.classic collapsing polar. In those cases, there are other designs that are clearly better than horn IMO.
Does "collapsing polar" just mean the directivity gradually increases with frequency?Also a collapsing polar though not that bad as the other. So much measurements these days, but people don't understand them!