MMorrill88
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- Feb 4, 2020
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Klipsch Rp8000F and Focal 816v, mostly the Klipsch.What speaker were you using?
Klipsch Rp8000F and Focal 816v, mostly the Klipsch.What speaker were you using?
This is wrong. Low dynamic range recordings are more likely to produce higher heat levels as they have a higher average power level. The Purifi has no requirement for fans.And / or silent fans noise < 19 dB (A).
Small boxes are usually problematic in amplifiers that are connected to current loudspeakers, many of them with true sensitivity of 83-85-89 dB and minimum impedance of about 4 Ohms (2-ways) or 3 Ohms (3-ways) is quite common. And if you listen to very good recording with high or very DR... as DR19 of 1812 Overture -> heat.
They are efficient speakers, didn't know they need the extra power. Good to know.Klipsch Rp8000F and Focal 816v, mostly the Klipsch.
They're both excellent as far as far as I'm concerned. Which is better? Idk like SIY said I'm probably not really hearing anything too different between the two, most of it is in my head.They are efficient speakers, didn't know they need the extra power. Good to know.
I'm thinking about Purifi and NC500 too
Already had the nords, got them used for a good price a little while ago. I bought the eval 1 as a little hobby to get into, basically since I liked the hypex stuff so much I thought why not try Bruno's new stuff out?Why Purifi vs NC500, rather than Purifi vs NC400?
I personal believe extra power/headroom is more noticeable than the further improvement on lower distortionWhy Purifi vs NC500, rather than Purifi vs NC400?
Wrong. For the reasons I have already pointed out. It's the highly compressed low dynamics recordings that will have a higher average power level and hence produce more heat. You have it backwards Maty.If you make the mistake of using small boxes, low sensitivity speakers, high volume and large dynamic range recordings then a forced dissipation will be necessary. That is activated from a threshold.
In normal listening and the usual commercial recordings probably not. But for such badly produced music it is not necessary to spend a lot of money on the stereo, I say.
Which is also fine. There is no problem.The problem is... the Hypex SMPS.
If you listen your Purifi amp with Klipschs, do you hear any hissing noise with your ear close to tweeter (using just the amp without source connected) ?Klipsch Rp8000F and Focal 816v, mostly the Klipsch.
With the Freya in passive mode I hear nothing. But in jfet yes. In tube mode there's a ton a hiss. So no I don't hear anything. Just unplugged the xlr inputs and still no noise.If you listen your Purifi amp with Klipschs, do you hear any hissing noise with your ear close to tweeter (using just the amp without source connected) ?
Still no noise with open inputs is pretty good, since the input impedance is high(ish).With the Freya in passive mode I hear nothing. But in jfet yes. In tube mode there's a ton a hiss. So no I don't hear anything. Just unplugged the xlr inputs and still no noise.
You want either a "real" power switch for the mains AC going into your power supply, OR some means of using a power supply standby mode, which likely needs a separate standby power supply (depending on your specific build details). @JimM gave his example build that does that:If I want to wire a front panel "power" switch, can I use amp enable signal for it? I mean: connect amp enable wire from SMPS1200 via the on/off switch to the EVAL board. Is that enough or is there another way to do this? I will remove S1 switch, do I need to remove R3 if I remove the switch?
I'm going to use an external relay that cuts AC power from the amp and is controller via preamp's 12V trigger outputs. Maybe I'll forget the front panel switch and put just a LED there. EVAL1 board has two status LEDs, are those just single color? Do they normally just remain on or do they do something during a startup?You want either a "real" power switch for the mains AC going into your power supply, OR some means of using a power supply standby mode, which likely needs a separate standby power supply (depending on your specific build details). @JimM gave his example build that does that:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...y-purifi-amp-builds.10478/page-20#post-314342
You do not remove R3.
The datasheet says:I'm going to use an external relay that cuts AC power from the amp and is controller via preamp's 12V trigger outputs. Maybe I'll forget the front panel switch and put just a LED there. EVAL1 board has two status LEDs, are those just single color? Do they normally just remain on or do they do something during a startup?