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DIY Purifi Amp builds

mocenigo

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When removing the banana plugs I read to add a resistor to r8 a1 r9 a1 and same as the other side is there anything that has to be done when removing the xlrs. Or is it as easy as wiring 3 wires to the pcb board.

Strictly speaking, you do not need to remove the banana sockets. You can solder the wire to the little through holes at the bottom of the banana sockets. Or, if you feel a bit easy, you insert bananas into those sockets and wire them to the binding posts of your case (I did that because I expect to use a different breakout board...). The 0R resistors are important because the Eigentakt modules need to "sense" the impedance of the system.

No such sensing is needed for the balanced inputs, hence you can just solder three wires. Which you can still do at the bottom of the PCB.
 
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JimB

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... The 0R resistors are important because the Eigentakt modules need to "sense" the impedance of the system. ...
Adding more detail here, the required feedback is provided through the DELTRON-type output sockets, from the pin by the edge of the board. Only when you remove the socket have you broken the feedback path, and so need to provide an alternate. With the on-board socket removed, there are two ways:
1. Wire from the open feedback via hole (where you removed the on-board output socket) to your output connector
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...iy-purifi-amp-builds.10478/page-9#post-297632

2. Fit a 0 ohm jumper to link to the output trace on the EVAL1 PCB
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...iy-purifi-amp-builds.10478/page-8#post-296649

Since the tiny SMD resistors are such a pain to do by hand, you could get that feedback link with a bit of wire from the open feedback hole to one of the available holes of the output trace, just like the original socket provided.

Option #1 should have higher performance. If you do it, you should not do #2 also, or you lose the benefit of taking feedback from the last possible point in the output path. That said, I have considered fitting a 1 ohm resistor as a backup path in case of any issue with the remote sense wire connection. With that added, if there was a problem with the added sensing wire, the amp would still operate well - not go open-loop. Yet, it will not degrade the performance with a good sense wire connection. This parallel feedback connection is not standard advice - it is not necessary.

EDIT, 02/25/2020:
As noted here, one can just use wire jumpers, or leaded resistors:

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...y-purifi-amp-builds.10478/page-25#post-336826
 
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JimB

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What's needed to use an SMPS1200 is clear. What the best implementation is, for any one of us, remains an individual decision. ...

B. Want to also use the nAMPON and nFATAL interlocks? Then provide either a full ribbon cable to the SMPS1200 J4, or adapt to it starting from the Purifi cable, as described, above:
Regarding wiring the free ends of the Purifi-provided J3 cable to J4 of the SMPS1200, the provided wires appear to be 22 AWG. Most IDC sockets accept only 26-28 AWG. The largest I have found DO extend to 22 AWG, and accept discrete wires, but are pricey. For example, the 3M CHG-2010-J01010-KEP‎:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...r-wm-skt-100x-100-2-row-chg-series-ts0192.pdf


Even so, we still need two more wires, with crimps, to complete a 5-wire cable from the EVAL1 to the SMPS1200. @JimM found those here:
https://www.digikey.com/products/en...f=0&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25

...
So, I finally got around to making a decision/commitment, ordering parts, and trying one out. Here, I insert two of the previously mentioned jumpers into the Purifi J3 plug at slots p1 and p3. I wound the original three 'power' jumpers together, then wound the two added 'signal' wires together. This was for 'neatness' and facilitating identifying wires at the other end. Finally, those two were loosely wound together just to be 'tidy'.
1582324405096.png


Here is the overall cable, with the previously mentioned 3M plug for connecting to J4 of the Hypex SMPS1200A400.
1582324423468.png


As described before, overall connections are:
1581980215005.png


I used my ohmmeter to find the ends of the one wire I wanted to do at a time, and then cut off the free end connector of just that one wire. This helped avoid a wiring error. Of course, you could also label all wires. I used the full length of the jumper wires, cutting off just the crimp at the SMPS end, then pressed the end of the wire into its slot of the IDC plug. Here is a close up of the "back side" of the IDC plug, showing positions 2, 6 and 10 used:
IMG_5236 adj.jpg


And here is the "front side", showing positions 1 and 3 used:
1582324471874.png


It was a bit more 'fiddly' than I'd like to get the wires punched down, carefully, so as to ensure good contact and not damage the wire slots of the contacts. Of what I had, my best 'tool' was a jewelers screw driver set. The back end of the bits was about perfect to fit in the 'gate' of the connector and press the wire into it, cleanly. The blade of the properly sized bit was used to ensure the wire to the left and right sides of the center gate were pressed down completely, as well. I was also able to get the little tabs of the wire insulation holders folded down with the screwdriver blade (seen best on middle position, #6, above, which you can expand for more detail).
1582324488307.png


All connections ohmmed out "0.0", end to end, so hopefully it will be trouble free for the life of the amp. Later, I'll likely add a bit of heatshrink over just the area of the IDC crimp connections (not down where the plug engages the SMPS socket). As I have a total of three to do, I might also try doing one of these by stripping and soldering the ends - just have to take care not to let flux or solder get to the contact area. Clamping the connector with the contact area up, and the wires down, while soldering, helps.

EDIT
Now installed, with a zip-tie and heat-shrink sleeve:
1582324619694.png
 
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Zak66

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This forum helped me out with doing my 1ET400A / SMPS1200A400 build so I thought I would share it. I really wanted to keep it as simple as possible to start with to get it up and running and I am really happy with the results. It was very easy for a first build. I used a 12v IEC trigger from Audiophonics for switching it on/off and it works flawlessly. I am really enjoying the sound detail and clarity this produces and the extra power is exactly what my Theophany M5 speakers needed. Super happy.
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/powe....html?search_query=12v trigger&fast_search=fs
20200217_130851.jpg
20200217_144759.jpg
 
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JimB

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This forum helped me out with doing my 1ET400A / SMPS1200A400 build so I thought I would share it. I really wanted to keep it as simple as possible to start with to get it up and running and I am really happy with the results. It was very easy for a first build. ...
Nice! I'm glad you are happy with the build. There's nothing I can see that would compromise the audio performance of it in any way.

I see that you have grey and violet wires on your main power supply connection to the EVAL1. Was it that way from Purifi? Mine are all black. I also see that you went with the basic auxiliary interfacing (three wires), using just the parts Purifi provides. My details from the post above, and the one below, are to show how to add the nAMPON and nFATAL functions to the interface with the SMPS1200A400.

Nice find on the Audiophonics trigger, too! I wonder if there is an equivalent distributed in the US?
 
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JimB

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Following on from my earlier post about using the 3M IDC plug to interface all five lines between J3 of the EVAL1 and J4 of the SMPS1200A400, I have now tried a different approach, involving different tools and skills, and less money. Purifi provides a spare JST EHR-7 plug housing, which can be used to plug into J5 of the SMPS1200, as @Zak66 did, above. But, with a bit of work, you can use it, plus a second one, to get the five-wire interface to J4. For this, you just need an additional EHR-7 plug body, and the two extra jumper wires, described, before. First, use a sharp knife or safety razor blade to shave off the five protruding ridges of the housing (four short and one long):
1581984950236.png

1581984968157.png


Yielding:
1581984996967.png


Next, you need to thin down the thick side of the housing - the one with all the openings. I did this by rubbing it on an emery board (fine sand-paper on a cardboard stick) for 30-60 seconds. This will make plastic dust in the openings of the plug housing - just blow it out. You want to remove maybe 0.5mm, just enough that it will slip into the SMPS1200 J4 socket, smoothly. [The photos are of a plug housing before I trimmed off the ridges.]
1581985508892.png


Try fitting it into the socket to judge when you've done enough. Note the orientation, carefully. Don't push it in all the way, or you might not get it back out! If it is tight, rub it down a bit more. I tried several times before I was satisfied. Do this for two EHR-7 housings.
1582310898324.png


Viewed from the ends, the two of them will fit like this, with the "plain" sides facing together, and the sides with openings facing out:
1581986042102.png


And into J4 like this:
1582311074906.png


Remove these housings from the J4 socket and insert the existing crimps of the five jumper wires (from the EVAL1, J3) into the corresponding holes, for p1, 2, 3, 6 and 10, as listed before. NOTE THAT THE END HOLES ARE EMPTY! You will use the center five positions, only.

Here is mine, with some small shrink tubing I had (red on pin 1 (V+) and grey on pin 2 (V-), with a bit of black to keep all wires together):
1582325350050.png
1582325108666.png


And here it is plugged fully into J4:
1582324753998.png


It works great! But, YOU must take care to plug it in the right way around - there is no polarization of the plugs in the socket. Note how there are three wires on the end towards the left of the socket, and only one at the right. In my case, with the red shrink-tube on wire #1, it's like the red stripe on a ribbon cable. One could add a little square of red tape on the face of the socket by there to indicate that the red wire is to be on that end. [The PCB silkscreen also indicates this by the white point just under that pin position - #1.]

Having said and done all of this, if you have to buy additional housings (I had a spare EHR-7 for this), you could just get a pair of EHR-5 (five long instead of seven long), and skip trimming off the four short ridges on the ends. Keeping those side ridges on the EHR-5 should ensure that it will insert centered in the socket. You still need to trim off the long ridge on each one, and thin down the sides, though that should be slightly easier with a 5-position plug than with the 7-way.

Finally, you could make this polarized with two EHR-7, by keeping just the 'back' ridge on one end of each (same end when paired!) and cut out the lock tab of SMPS1200A400 J4 on the corresponding end (I recommend it be the pin 9-10 end). Then it should insert in only one orientation.
1582325843913.png
1582407609781.png


EDIT 02/22/20:
Final advice on this. Whether one uses 7-pin, or 5 pin housings, an easy way to 'polarize' the assembly is simply to pry out the center tab of the odd numbered (front) row. This works as an indicator and partial insertion block. But, it can be made even better by looping a tiny zip-tie through that opening - then there will be no chance of inserting it, wrongly. A zip-tie with 1.8mm wide band, like Panduit PLT.6SM-C or PLT.6SM-M, would be ideal here. Mine is a typical 4" tie. A bit big, but it did work without modification.
1582409661827.png
1582410992341.png
 
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mocenigo

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This forum helped me out with doing my 1ET400A / SMPS1200A400 build so I thought I would share it. I really wanted to keep it as simple as possible to start with to get it up and running and I am really happy with the results. It was very easy for a first build. I used a 12v IEC trigger from Audiophonics for switching it on/off and it works flawlessly. I am really enjoying the sound detail and clarity this produces and the extra power is exactly what my Theophany M5 speakers needed. Super happy.
https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/power-supply-kits/audiophonics-trigger-12v-230v-slave-power-supply-device-p-10661.html?search_query=12v trigger&fast_search=fs
View attachment 50626View attachment 50627

I really like your build. It is much more compact than mine and this is definitely a plus. Mine is a bit bigger because I had other plans (bypass buffer, use the Neurochrome Universal Buffer, and wanted to play with superregulated power supplies for some parts, which required various boards, why? because fun), How did you work the case and the wood panel? Yourself?
 

Matias

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I really wish that Purifi would release an "1ET1200A" module with 1200W and similar low distortion. That would make me want to upgrade my current NC500 based Apollon amp.
 
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JimB

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I really wish that Purifi would release an "1ET1200A" module with 1200W and similar low distortion. That would make me want to upgrade my current NC500 based Apollon amp.
Or, at least make a 1ET400B version that it bridgeable?
 

Tartaruga

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Guys if I want to build an amp based on the EVAL1 kit, what else do I need for basic configuration?
Smps1200 power supply, electric input plug, and a case?
Am I missing something?
BTW, can I build a case from soft wood?
 

mocenigo

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Guys if I want to build an amp based on the EVAL1 kit, what else do I need for basic configuration?
Smps1200 power supply, electric input plug, and a case?
Am I missing something?
BTW, can I build a case from soft wood?

EVAL1 and Hypex SMPS1200A400 are all you need (you can probably use also the SMPS1200A180, but NOT the SMPS1200A700 as the voltage is too high and the 1ET400A module will just NOT start up). Configure the Hypex SMPS to provide unregulated AUX voltage.

The 1ET400A modules and the SMPS will release some heat so for prolonged use at significant power it is definitely recommended to mount them on a heat conducting material that has enough surface to dissipate the heat, i.e. an aluminium plate with feet to allow air to circulate under it. The rest of the case can be of soft wood if you want.
 

mocenigo

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Thanks for the info, I'll order the kit and the Smps1200a400.
I'll cut a pc case motherboard plate for the base, is it good enough?
I will also need speaker terminal right?
That will fit?
InstallGear 4 AWG Gauge Gold Ring Set Screw Battery Ring Terminals (4 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V59M76A/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_bXQtEb6GH7PWD

The EVAL1 kit contains the FE02 connector board that has decent speaker terminals (for bananas and z-plugs only) and two XLR inputs already mounted. So if the rear of your case will have aligned holes it will work well. As for the pc case motherboard plate for the base, I sincerely do not know, how thick is it? You should make sure the base of the 1ET400A modules has a good adherence (maybe use a bit of thermal paste) to the bottom, is well fastened with four screws per module, and that the base conduct the heat well. I do not know how good the "mobo trays" are for that, but if they are sufficiently flat and not too thin why not... I would personally use 3mm of aluminum.
 

ChrisPa

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JimB

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No. Have a close look at the eval1 documentation

The eval1 has built in 4mm sockets.
Get some locking banana plugs to fit to the end of your speaker cables and plug then straight into the existing eval1 sockets
Or "Z"/BFA plugs. Examples of types of plugs that should provide good contact:
https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Locking-Generation-Connector/dp/B000O8AHLA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=112BKTTCTCMGT&keywords=locking+banana+plugs&qid=1582215616&s=electronics&sprefix=locking+banan,electronics,221&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Expres...na+plugs&qid=1582215665&s=electronics&sr=1-18

https://www.amazon.com/Viborg-Plate...na+plugs&qid=1582215665&s=electronics&sr=1-19
 

Tartaruga

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I got an old pc case that I tought to cut the base just because it sound cool, I'll check it thickness but I guess I'll just get aluminum plate. I got thermal paste for my pc builds so I guess it will work.
I didn't look the doc (I was pretty sure I'll get nc400 amp from Netherlands as I am travling to Amsterdam tomorrow, but I think it will be cheaper and better to build purifi based amp so I wanted to know what can I get from there for the amp build) , from the pictures I thought it's mandetory, I already have banana plugs so if the kit enough so I won't buy it.
Sorry for the silly questions, first time that I even plan to make a diy amp.
I'll prepare some reading material for the flight, thanks!
 
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JimB

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... I didn't look the doc (I was pretty sure I'll get nc400 amp from Netherlands as I am travling to Amsterdam tomorrow, but I think it will be cheaper and better to build purifi based amp so I wanted to know what can I get from there for the amp build) , from the pictures I thought it's mandatory, I already have banana plugs so if the kit enough so I won't buy it. ... I'll prepare some reading material for the flight, thanks!
If possible, skim through this entire thread for ideas. Note the posts on whether, and how, to do interfacing from EVAL1 J3 to the SMPS1200A400 at J5 (3 wires, possible with only what Purifi provides) OR at J4 (5 wires, which requires you to get/do a bit more to have the nAMPON and nFATAL control lines).
 

mocenigo

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I got an old pc case that I tought to cut the base just because it sound cool, I'll check it thickness but I guess I'll just get aluminum plate. I got thermal paste for my pc builds so I guess it will work.
I didn't look the doc (I was pretty sure I'll get nc400 amp from Netherlands as I am travling to Amsterdam tomorrow, but I think it will be cheaper and better to build purifi based amp so I wanted to know what can I get from there for the amp build) , from the pictures I thought it's mandetory, I already have banana plugs so if the kit enough so I won't buy it.
Sorry for the silly questions, first time that I even plan to make a diy amp.
I'll prepare some reading material for the flight, thanks!

It is a very simple build. The only thing to do is to properly the EVAL1 kit to the Hypex SMPS and the SMPS to mains. Read this thread and you will find a lot of information.
 

Matias

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Can't wait for Ghent to release his Purifi EVAL case, then it should be trivial.
 

Tartaruga

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Thank you guys, I'll read all the thread.
Already talked with a store in netherland in order to get the 1200a400.
 
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