Budget DAC Review and Measurements: Behringer UCA222

[krabapple]

To be clear, as best I can tell, the ADC of both the UCA202 and the UCA222 operates at 44kHz and 48kHz/16bit (Behringer calls this 'high resolution ). You set the SR for the device in your computer's audio control panel.

 

[antcollinet]

To be clear, as best I can tell, the ADC of both the UCA202 and the UCA222 operates at 44kHz and 48kHz/16bit (Behringer calls this 'high resolution ). You set the SR for the device in your computer's audio control panel.

Necromancer!

 

[krabapple]

Guess which device I had to haul out to use today

 

[Bruce Morgen]

I recently bought four of these for utility use at $9..99 apiece with free shipping on sale at Sweetwater -- and just now it went back up to $29.99. $9.99 seems about right....

 

[eikido]

Just want to get it straight.
The UCA202 now also comes with the Coolaudio chipsets, same as the UCA222?

Looking for a simple DAC with Line out to my headphone amp.

 

[somebodyelse]

Presumably, but I haven't seen anyone confirm it with a recent one. You could try https://www.thomann.de/gb/fun_generation_ua_202.htm for something similar - assuming they haven't changed since post #28. But if all you want is line out the Apple dongle is cheaper and measures better.

 

[eikido]

Presumably, but I haven't seen anyone confirm it with a recent one. You could try https://www.thomann.de/gb/fun_generation_ua_202.htm for something similar - assuming they haven't changed since post #28. But if all you want is line out the Apple dongle is cheaper and measures better.

Thanks.

The apple dongle has an amplified output. I only need line out to my headphone amp.

 

[krabapple]

It's cheap enough that you could just buy one and open it up to find out.

 

[antcollinet]

Thanks.

The apple dongle has an amplified output. I only need line out to my headphone amp.

It doesn't really matter though as long as the output voltage is compatible with your amp.

 

[Nifkin]

Why is this reviewed as if it's a DAC when it's not: it's an ADC?

 

[antcollinet]

Why is this reviewed as if it's a DAC when it's not: it's an ADC?

It is both. But only the DAC functionality was tested.

 

[Nifkin]

It is both. But only the DAC functionality was tested.

It's intended as a rudimentary audio interface, i.e. it's meant to turn analogue signals into digital. I know a ton of people who use or have used it, and they always use it to create digital copies from analogue sources, such as vinyl, tape cassette, etc. Why would anyone use this as a DAC? There's so much more choice when it comes to standalone DACs than standalone ADCs. If you look at the user manual there is no guidance on using it as a DAC, just as an ADC.

 

[Bruce Morgen]

It's intended as a rudimentary audio interface, i.e. it's meant to turn analogue signals into digital. I know a ton of people who use or have used it, and they always use it to create digital copies from analogue sources, such as vinyl, tape cassette, etc. Why would anyone use this as a DAC? There's so much more choice when it comes to standalone DACs than standalone ADCs. If you look at the user manual there is no guidance on using it as a DAC, just as an ADC.

I use a Behringer audio interface-- the newer UMC202HD model -- principally for its DAC and headphone amp functions, and only occasionally for recording with microphones. I tried a separate Topping E30 DAC, and found it provided no significant SQ improvement -- and then it died after a couple months of use. I went back to the UMC202HD without a single moment of hesitation or regret -- it's more than adequate for my particular use case and I like having both functions in a single small USB-powered (no "wall wart") unit I can rely on. WTF would one need "guidance" for the DAC function? You just connect it up, download/install the latest driver package from the mfr. website, and you're good to go.

 

[Nifkin]

I use a Behringer audio interface-- the newer UMC202HD model -- principally for its DAC and headphone amp functions, and only occasionally for recording with microphones. I tried a separate Topping E30 DAC, and found it provided no significant SQ improvement -- and then it died after a couple months of use. I went back to the UMC202HD without a single moment of hesitation or regret -- it's more than adequate for my particular use case and I like having both functions in a single small USB-powered (no "wall wart") unit I can rely on. WTF would one need "guidance" for the DAC function? You just connect it up, download/install the latest driver package from the mfr. website, and you're good to go.

The UMC202HD is a totally different class of product to the one being discussed. Who on earth uses the UCA222 as a DAC? Why would you?

As for the guidance, think about it: only on ASR would someone assume that everyone instinctively knows how to connect up a DAC! Behringer include a user guide for the ADC but not for the DAC function, not even to say "just connect it up, download/install the latest driver package from the mfr. website, and you're good to go." If they thought people would be using it as a DAC you'd think they'd mention it somewhere, that's why manufacturers include user manuals

No-one but no-one uses the UCA222 as a DAC, unless they're having an emergency because all their other DACs are broken

 

[Blumlein 88]

The UMC202HD is a totally different class of product to the one being discussed. Who on earth uses the UCA222 as a DAC? Why would you?

As for the guidance, think about it: only on ASR would someone assume that everyone instinctively knows how to connect up a DAC! Behringer include a user guide for the ADC but not for the DAC function, not even to say "just connect it up, download/install the latest driver package from the mfr. website, and you're good to go." If they thought people would be using it as a DAC you'd think they'd mention it somewhere, that's why manufacturers include user manuals

No-one but no-one uses the UCA222 as a DAC, unless they're having an emergency because all their other DACs are broken

Notice this review was 6 years ago. Many inexpensive DACs we have now weren't out then. As the Behringer had a DAC as well as an ADC nothing wrong with using what you need if it fits the purpose. If it also was cheaper than most any DAC only device what is the harm? I have an audio interface that is mostly used as a secondary DAC because it is a good one. I bought it to record, but the ADC is only used a fraction as much as the time I spend using the DAC part of it.

Also the mention of the UMC202HD is not about a totally different class of product. In fact it was a later device fulfilling exactly the same function as the UCA222. Bruce Morgen was simply pointing out that he uses the DAC of a very similar device so your idea nobody uses it and it was only for ADC use does not really ring true.

 

[Barrelhouse Solly]

I've used it to convert USB to toslink.

 

[Bruce Morgen]

The UMC202HD is a totally different class of product to the one being discussed. Who on earth uses the UCA222 as a DAC? Why would you?

As for the guidance, think about it: only on ASR would someone assume that everyone instinctively knows how to connect up a DAC! Behringer include a user guide for the ADC but not for the DAC function, not even to say "just connect it up, download/install the latest driver package from the mfr. website, and you're good to go." If they thought people would be using it as a DAC you'd think they'd mention it somewhere, that's why manufacturers include user manuals

No-one but no-one uses the UCA222 as a DAC, unless they're having an emergency because all their other DACs are broken

I bought a bunch of UCA222s when they were on sale at Sweetwater for $9.99 apiece and use them like "dongle" DACs for miscellaneous utility applications. Their DAC function is better than all but the most recent PeeCee motherboards and laptops, and the headphone volume control makes them more versatile than the usual "dongle" product -- and they're far more durable than the vast majority of "dongles." As for SQ, I wouldn't use one for serious music listening, but they're entirely adequate for movie and TV audio -- I have no current use for the ADC function, but it's there should I ever need it. At that sale price, they were a very cost-effective way to go given an appropriate use case.

 

[antcollinet]

Who on earth uses the UCA222 as a DAC? Why would you?

Why wouldn't you?

And you are complaining about a review from 2017 - 6 years ago. I'm not sure there is that much point getting worked up over it.

 

[love_budget_audio]

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I wanted to make sure anyone here who has a UCA202 or UCA222 has seen this. It's an easy modification for a major improvement.

These videos are a must see. You can really massively improve the distortion and noise as well as voltage stability with these two parts. However I will summarize the mods in the video if you do not want to watch.

You need these two parts.

1. LM385Z-2.5
2. a 1200uF capacitor (smaller is better. recommend no bigger than 10mmx16mm). 1000uF can work too if you already have some, but 1200uF is better.

Remove surface mount resistor R39 on the solder side of the PCB. Remove C13, replace with the 1200uF. Solder the voltage reference diode to the legs of the 1200uF as shown:

The one thing I did that he does not do in these videos is replace the input power filtering 47uF cap with a 47uF organic Polymer capacitor. A minor change but does the job a bit better than an electrolytic.

There were older iterations of this kind of mod to improve the reference voltage, but they usually broke the monitor input feature in order to achieve it. This leaves all original functionality intact. I would offer to make measurements, but the above linked videos go thru that very thoroughly, so again I highly recommend watching it. The videos are in German but you can use the closed caption functionality of Youtube to translate to your language and follow along.

 

[Bruce Morgen]

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I wanted to make sure anyone here who has a UCA202 or UCA222 has seen this. It's an easy modification for a major improvement.

These videos are a must see. You can really massively improve the distortion and noise as well as voltage stability with these two parts. However I will summarize the mods in the video if you do not want to watch.

You need these two parts.

1. LM385Z-2.5
2. a 1200uF capacitor (smaller is better. recommend no bigger than 10mmx16mm). 1000uF can work too if you already have some, but 1200uF is better.

Remove surface mount resistor R39 on the solder side of the PCB. Remove C13, replace with the 1200uF. Solder the voltage reference diode to the legs of the 1200uF as shown:
View attachment 443943

The one thing I did that he does not do in these videos is replace the input power filtering 47uF cap with a 47uF organic Polymer capacitor. A minor change but does the job a bit better than an electrolytic.

There were older iterations of this kind of mod to improve the reference voltage, but they usually broke the monitor input feature in order to achieve it. This leaves all original functionality intact. I would offer to make measurements, but the above linked videos go thru that very thoroughly, so again I highly recommend watching it. The videos are in German but you can use the closed caption functionality of Youtube to translate to your language and follow along.

I question whether the measurable improvement from this mod is audible, especially given how cheap the product is and the fact that it is not likely to be used for critical music listening in a system with extended bass response.

That said, IMO Frank's work is too fastidious and time-consuming considering how cheap the device is and the simplicity of the mod. Instead of carefully unsoldering that SMD resistor, I would simply break and remove the resistive element with a small cutting pliers, then I would pretty much destroy the 100 mFd capacitor, being careful to leave the two lead wires long enough to solder on the leads of the 1200 mFd replacement capacitor, and finally I would add the LM385 device just like he did or perhaps tack-solder it to the remaining end caps of that removed SMD resistor. Ugly to look at, but very quickly and easily done, with no unsoldering -- and you wouldn't even have to remove the PCB from the case since everything can be done from the top.