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Buckeye Amps: New US based Hypex multichannel amplifier builder, line-up announcement!

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you don't have to run a wire between the other binding posts or anything, right? Just the special xlr splitter cable?

And then... how do you do it with speakon? Just make a single-wire to each speakon connector?

Also if I don't know what the impedance of the plugs are on my sub, can I damage the amp? Say it was a 2 ohm load... would it just protect or could I damage it? 502mp. If you tell me it matters I guess I can multimeter it. Apparently you just kinda "round up" whatever reading you get off the speaker, at least from what I'm reading.

My amps are coming friday and I'm super excited :)
Correct on the binding post part and only one wire per speakON part.

Regarding impedance: it is very important you know the impedance before bridging the amp channels. A 4ohm load is the minimum impedance that can be driven by a bridged module. Especially if bridging for subwoofer duty.
 
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dscottj

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Is this also true for nc252mp?

My 252MP does pop once when it turns on. It's not loud and shouldn't damage anything. Because of a quirk of my system (powered subwoofers in the mains) I don't usually hear it. The signal simply turns the amps in the subs on, so instead of a sound I get a very faint click. The only way I do hear it is if I power cycle everything quickly. Even then it's not much. Reminds me of my original rig in fact (~ 1981), which always produced a bass thump every time it turned on.
 

xaxxon

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Correct on the binding post part and only one wire per speakON part.

Regarding impedance: it is very important you know the impedance before bridging the amp channels. A 4ohm load is the minimum impedance that can be driven by a bridged module. Especially if bridging for subwoofer duty.
But just to be clear - too low of an impedance can permanently damage the amp or does it just not work properly while the improper load is attached?
 
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But just to be clear - too low of an impedance can permanently damage the amp or does it just not work properly while the improper load is attached?
It can damage the amp. A non bridged Hypex 252 or 502 can handle 2ohms nominal speakers no problem. But once you bridge, 4ohms is the lowest it should be driving.
 
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New Powder Coat added to the gallery: Traffic Blue
 

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Flash

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So for those interested the the binding post fix, I performed mine last night, and *maybe* was able to tell a very slight difference in noise reduction at high volumes. Honestly, these amps are very quiet in the stock form. I already had to put my ear mere inches from the tweeter to hear even a hint of hiss at the loudest I would listen to my system in order to capture hiss that eclipses room noise.

Due to lack of source to fine .205 brass tabs, I purchased .250 tabs and filed them down to size so that i could avoid cutting off the faston female connectors on the speaker wire. Worked like a charm so it was just unscrewing the old and screwing on the new.

I sourced the tabs brass tabs from Digi-Key: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/141879-1/1148845
I sourced the nuts from an ebay seller specializing in brass fasteners: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383829320468

The unscientific results were slightly less perceived noise (even harder to hear at the same volume inches from the tweeter). @amirm's review when he gets an updated version will tell for sure if there is a measurable difference, but I think with or without this fix any measured noise will be completely inaudible at normal listening distances...with music masking it further, especially at the volumes required for hiss to even be present.

At this point, I have peace of mind knowing that i have "optimized" the path at a relatively low cost.
 
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DonH56

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The binding tab fix should have zero impact on the noise floor.
 
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The binding tab fix should have zero impact on the noise floor.
Having just finally fixed the tabs on my personal amps, I can say 0 objective difference noticed.
 

AdamG247

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Having just finally fixed the tabs on my personal amps, I can say 0 objective difference noticed.
Tilting at windmills ;) I respect your transparency on this. Also respect the transparency of your Amps. :cool:
 
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Call for help:

I am need of a Graphics/UI Designer for a new product I am working on. Should be easy work.

As I am trying to keep the product somewhat under wraps, really only looking for established members to respond.

Please PM me here if interested.
 

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Hi Dylan, have you ever thought of an NC52MP into a tiny chassis like a 14 x 14 cm (5.5 x 5.5 inch) for the low power, desktop users? How low would it cost (ballpark)?
 
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Hi Dylan, have you ever thought of an NC52MP into a tiny chassis like a 14 x 14 cm (5.5 x 5.5 inch) for the low power, desktop users? How low would it cost (ballpark)?
I have not. I’ll put it on a list of possible additions to look into
 

Ekkoville

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Dylan, would like your opinion on a selection. I run a 5.1.2 system with an additional two speakers in the kitchen that is open to the Great Room. My main LCR speakers are Triad InWall Bronze at 4-Ohm. The two surrounds are Triad InWall Boronze surrounds at 6-Ohms. And the two Atmos speakers as well as the two in the kitchen are 8-Ohm.

The Triads can take up to 200W for the LCR and 140W on the surrounds. So not super high wattage requirements, but sensitivity ratings of 90dB on the LCR and 84dB on the surrounds. The Atmos and kitchen speakers are Sonance 8-inch rounds.

With that mix of impedance, how would you drive that combination? I was thinking a NC252MP to drive the seven channels in the Great Rm and a two channel for the kitchen. I don’t think I realized the surrounds were 6-Ohm, I originally thought they were 4-Ohm like the LCRs. So, it’s quite a mix of impedance and wonder if I should be careful on mixing impedance with a single amp.

Your thoughts?
 
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Dylan, would like your opinion on a selection. I run a 5.1.2 system with an additional two speakers in the kitchen that is open to the Great Room. My main LCR speakers are Triad InWall Bronze at 4-Ohm. The two surrounds are Triad InWall Boronze surrounds at 6-Ohms. And the two Atmos speakers as well as the two in the kitchen are 8-Ohm.

The Triads can take up to 200W for the LCR and 140W on the surrounds. So not super high wattage requirements, but sensitivity ratings of 90dB on the LCR and 84dB on the surrounds. The Atmos and kitchen speakers are Sonance 8-inch rounds.

With that mix of impedance, how would you drive that combination? I was thinking a NC252MP to drive the seven channels in the Great Rm and a two channel for the kitchen. I don’t think I realized the surrounds were 6-Ohm, I originally thought they were 4-Ohm like the LCRs. So, it’s quite a mix of impedance and wonder if I should be careful on mixing impedance with a single amp.

Your thoughts?
There is no issue with mixing speakers of different impedances. So the NC252MP would be a good fit for all of your speakers/mixing and matching.
 
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A Red Anodized XL Case and Blue Anodized XL Case
 

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xaxxon

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@Buckeye Amps sorry to bug more, but when bridging with the magic xlr splitter and two speakon connectors, what happens if you reverse the speakon connectors as it's non-obvious which one goes to the normal XLR plug and which goes to the reversed one. I have two speakon connectors with one wire to each - with one wire into 1+ and one into 1- as I'm supposed to.

Also, I've noticed they get significantly warm - far warmer than I'd expect for class D amps at idle. Are the 4-channel 502mp's safe to stack as they ship?

Thanks.
 
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