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bookshelf speakers for Yamaha stereo receiver

Penelinfi

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I can get them for 380 EUR.
Is this design good, no separate tweeter?
It's a coaxial design. Supposed to be better because the tweeter is in the middle of the bass-midrange driver.
 
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gregor

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Try to find Elac DBR62's for a good price which is probably best you can get for that money.
I have Q3030i's which are not bad with R-N402D but I ended up using it only as an power amplifier Q3030i's plugged and with two subwoofer's.
AB class Yamahas aren't very tolerant to low impedance loads so advice is to go with speakers that won't deep under 4 Ohms.

I can get Elec Debut Reference 6.2 for 540 EUR, this is a little over the budget.
Probably I will buy one of the less expansive speakers...
Thanks
 

Beave

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Hello

I have Yamaha R-S202D stereo receiver (FM, DAB+, BLUETOOTH).

View attachment 281321


I'm looking for pair of bookshelf speakers, which will be good match for this stereo receiver.

In which price range should I look? Around 300 EUR or less, more?

What speaker will you recommend? White color will be a plus point.

Maybe Triangle Borea BR03, for 400 EUR. Is this too good, too expensive speaker for this receiver?

View attachment 281325

Thank you

Kind regards

You're going about this all backwards. You don't pick speakers that match an amp. You pick speakers that match your listening needs and your room (e.g., how loud are you playing? How much deep bass do you need? How big is your room? How far away do you sit from the speakers? What is your budget? Bookshelf or towers?)

Once you select speakers that suit your needs, you select an amp to power them.

Since you already have the amp, it's a non-issue. But you need to pick speakers based on the questions I listed above more than based on the amp you have.
 

ZolaIII

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Angel II

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If you have the chance try the Polk Audio ES 20. I use them in my Atoll IN80 Signature and they sound very good.. the sub is absolutely not vital on these speakers.
 

Galliardist

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Volume knob position at least 12 o’clock. Below than that means you’re not utilizing it.
I do hope this is not general advice. My amp doesn't have "12 o'clock" position. My experience with Yamaha amps suggests that above 10 o'clock is fine, for what it's worth.
 

ZolaIII

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Volume knob position at least 12 o’clock. Below than that means you’re not utilizing it.
Not only volume controls are digital (1-100 logarithmic scale) and rather good implemented but R-N range also has input stage level regulation (volume trim ±10 dB). Unfortunately lower tier doesn't have (equal) loudness normalisation. Peace of advice to you, you do pot analog (or digital) adjustment to the reference calibration level and when doing calibration if you intend to use third party input volume regulation (preamp) which by the way isn't the case this time.
 
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davide78

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If you can save more, or wait for a good offer to show up, go for the Elac DBR62. When I bought mine I had the chance to compare them with some similarly priced coaxial KEFs at the shop (Q350, if memory serves) and choose the Elacs. They do sound very good in my living room with no particular positioning or treatment and only a minimal bass EQ for subwoofer integration.
 

Overseas

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Not really. Biwiring is nonsense.
It may be overkill, but nonsense?! Nonsense is when something does not make sense at all. Biwiring is like using thicker than needed gauge cable, extra measure.
I do biwire and I think it adds some clarity for medium and treble. It may be subjective. Lucky me, it is everyday subjective.
 

Overseas

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Borea are excellent, I think not far from QA. QA 3030i are said to be bass rich.
 

Willem

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I can think of two good options in Europe. The Elac DBR62 at the higher end of the sensible price range in this use case (keep looking for a good offer), or perhaps the Wharfedale Diamond 220 that I managed to get for 125 euro a pair, but that are now going for about 160 euro. The Wharfedales are a bit bass light, but the bass that there is is good.
 

Overseas

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For Europe jump on this
 

ZolaIII

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Borea are excellent, I think not far from QA. QA 3030i are said to be bass rich.
They are (Q3030i) but it can be excessive and needs good distance behind (about 60 cm) and still benefits from absorber panels behind. I use mine with with port's closed and sub's Linkwitz Riley second order crossed @ 80 Hz.
Still think Elac DBR62 are best option and not just because they sound good but because they are easy to room and placement requirements and can play very loud with little distortion/compression as it's not exactly small room nor I believe he will go for subwoofer's anytime soon.
 

raindance

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It may be overkill, but nonsense?! Nonsense is when something does not make sense at all. Biwiring is like using thicker than needed gauge cable, extra measure.
I do biwire and I think it adds some clarity for medium and treble. It may be subjective. Lucky me, it is everyday subjective.
It doesn't add anything. It's a waste of cables.
 

JSmith

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Maybe Triangle Borea BR03
Meh...


JSmith
 

Overseas

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It doesn't add anything. It's a waste of cables.
And how exactly waste = nonsense? I am sure waste = more than necessary = overkill.
Nonsense is to pretend no cable works, or something like that.
I say biwire is a cheap form of waste and people should test for themselves.
 

JSmith

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I say biwire is a cheap form of waste
Well not when some are buying speaker cables that are $1000+ per metre. ;)

You may find this of interest;


JSmith
 

Galliardist

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It may be overkill, but nonsense?! Nonsense is when something does not make sense at all. Biwiring is like using thicker than needed gauge cable, extra measure.
I do biwire and I think it adds some clarity for medium and treble. It may be subjective. Lucky me, it is everyday subjective.
I can’t think of a situation in which biwiring is objectively beneficial.

However there are a few situations in which it may be harmful, though very rare. The amp in question here could provide such a case, if both parts of a speaker were both insensitive and difficult to drive, it could just look like two different insensitive speakers to the amp and fall foul of the warning not to attach two sets of 8 ohm speakers that was quoted earlier.

The usual reason for warning against biwiring is price (with boutique cables), though. I’m pretty sure they are covering that now- I remember seeing a pair of jumper cables to go between bass and treble sections priced in the five figure range for a whole 40cm of wire…
 
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