I’m venturing into DIY speaker building soon and I was wondering if any of you has recommendations on how to screw a speaker into a baffle.
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Best way to screw a speaker into a baffle?
- Thread starter abdo123
- Start date
A majority are just screwed straight into pre-drilled MDF or Baltic Birch.
I like T-Nuts, but have heard many criticisms about issues using them (from the t-nut not locking in or from it stripping out the wood, to being off by just enough to make the holes not match up).
I think more importantly is looking at use case and overall design. Specialty Subwoofers are going to require something much more different than a 6" Woofer and a Tweet in a 2-way Standmount.
In the US, you most commonly see something like these #6 or #8 Pan Head Scres used:
Then there are always the Cap Head Screws "for the European look!" (And yes, I have actually seen that very phrase used in an advertisement.
)
I like T-Nuts, but have heard many criticisms about issues using them (from the t-nut not locking in or from it stripping out the wood, to being off by just enough to make the holes not match up).
I think more importantly is looking at use case and overall design. Specialty Subwoofers are going to require something much more different than a 6" Woofer and a Tweet in a 2-way Standmount.
In the US, you most commonly see something like these #6 or #8 Pan Head Scres used:
Then there are always the Cap Head Screws "for the European look!" (And yes, I have actually seen that very phrase used in an advertisement.
)
That looks like a good price for cap head wood screws.A majority are just screwed straight into pre-drilled MDF or Baltic Birch.
I like T-Nuts, but have heard many criticisms about issues using them (from the t-nut not locking in or from it stripping out the wood, to being off by just enough to make the holes not match up).
I think more importantly is looking at use case and overall design. Specialty Subwoofers are going to require something much more different than a 6" Woofer and a Tweet in a 2-way Standmount.
In the US, you most commonly see something like these #6 or #8 Pan Head Scres used:
Then there are always the Cap Head Screws "for the European look!" (And yes, I have actually seen that very phrase used in an advertisement.
A majority are just screwed straight into pre-drilled MDF or Baltic Birch.
I like T-Nuts, but have heard many criticisms about issues using them (from the t-nut not locking in or from it stripping out the wood, to being off by just enough to make the holes not match up).
I think more importantly is looking at use case and overall design. Specialty Subwoofers are going to require something much more different than a 6" Woofer and a Tweet in a 2-way Standmount.
In the US, you most commonly see something like these #6 or #8 Pan Head Scres used:
Then there are always the Cap Head Screws "for the European look!" (And yes, I have actually seen that very phrase used in an advertisement.
I use these wood screws too but not for drivers that have strong motors. @carbidetooth introduced me to nut inserts or nutserts for short. Have been using them successfully in MDF but he secures them using epoxy. He sent me a video with this technique. Will post when I locate it.
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I used T-Nuts in my dual sub build a year ago (and there are pics in that thread showing them). As you say ryanosaur, I had more than one not lock in, and I had to make several adjustments due to the one of the holes being off by the smallest of amounts. They are not very forgiving at all if you are off even a little. In addition that, I had to grind some down a bit (which you can see in the pics) because they were making contact with the driver frame. I'm about to build two more subs, and I'd already decided that I will be using the cap head screws this time and just pre-drilling holes for the exact reasons you highlight.A majority are just screwed straight into pre-drilled MDF or Baltic Birch.
I like T-Nuts, but have heard many criticisms about issues using them (from the t-nut not locking in or from it stripping out the wood, to being off by just enough to make the holes not match up).
I think more importantly is looking at use case and overall design. Specialty Subwoofers are going to require something much more different than a 6" Woofer and a Tweet in a 2-way Standmount.
In the US, you most commonly see something like these #6 or #8 Pan Head Scres used:
Then there are always the Cap Head Screws "for the European look!" (And yes, I have actually seen that very phrase used in an advertisement.
Prana Ferox
Addicted to Fun and Learning
You can strip out MDF with screws or spin t-nuts in it if you're not careful. I like to make baffles out of ply for that reason.
Always, always drill pilot holes.
For lower moving mass parts (tweeters, mids) I just screw into the baffle. For woofers and subs I use T-nuts.
If the baffle is MDF or the driver is really big, I'll do this:
- mark and drill the holes for the T-nut bolts
- rake scrap bits of ply and cut a 1"x1" square or so and glue it centered on the holes, making sure it doesn't actually block the driver opening
- drill through those blocks too
Then your t-nuts have a nice ply surface to bite into and you'd have to break a fairly large glued surface apart to spin the nuts.
When you put t-nuts in, get the bolt, put some big washers on it where the speaker would go, and tighten the t-nut in by hand, making sure it doesn't spin with your other hand. Like many tasks, using power tools to speed things up usually leads to screwups.
Better t-nuts have more 'fingers'. Parts-express has ones I like.
Pic below, I didn't do a wonderful job but it shows what I'm talking about. This is a high power bass guitar cab.
Always, always drill pilot holes.
For lower moving mass parts (tweeters, mids) I just screw into the baffle. For woofers and subs I use T-nuts.
If the baffle is MDF or the driver is really big, I'll do this:
- mark and drill the holes for the T-nut bolts
- rake scrap bits of ply and cut a 1"x1" square or so and glue it centered on the holes, making sure it doesn't actually block the driver opening
- drill through those blocks too
Then your t-nuts have a nice ply surface to bite into and you'd have to break a fairly large glued surface apart to spin the nuts.
When you put t-nuts in, get the bolt, put some big washers on it where the speaker would go, and tighten the t-nut in by hand, making sure it doesn't spin with your other hand. Like many tasks, using power tools to speed things up usually leads to screwups.
Better t-nuts have more 'fingers'. Parts-express has ones I like.
Pic below, I didn't do a wonderful job but it shows what I'm talking about. This is a high power bass guitar cab.
Some of the Devastaor builds I seen have lumber blocks on the opposite side of the driver rim (rear-mounted) and they will use Spax screws through the favored Plywood and into the lumber. Those are for 21" Pro Drivers like the NSW6021-6 which I think qualifies as a strong Motor.
But in the Dev, the Driver is hidden and rear mounted from inside the back resonator chamber.I use threaded inserts into MDF for securing mounting brackets. I put a little glue in there, to, just to make certain it is locked in as best as possible. As you said, anything like that is tricky if you don't have much play for an imprecise pilot hole. I just looked up some of the Nut Inserts and surprised at the variety. I'm certain they all have their best use-case. Would like to see what you recommend for MDF, please. It's a definite improvement over the trick of using a Spade or Forstner bit and epoxying a standard Nut into the hole!
You make an excellent point about verifying the specs of the insert before installation! Anything like a 3/4" or 18mm substrate would be risky to have something more than 1/2" deep mounted from the other side. It's well worth erring on the cautious side rather than risking a complete need to re-fabricate the panel.
carbidetooth
Member
Let me get that for you Rick, it's on my YouTube channel.
Even though I cut the pockets with router in the vid, I've done many with a twist drill. Sources for threaded inserts in the video description. I'm nearing completion on another build using this technique and it's now my go-to method.
Even though I cut the pockets with router in the vid, I've done many with a twist drill. Sources for threaded inserts in the video description. I'm nearing completion on another build using this technique and it's now my go-to method.
Attachments
Slick! Thank you.
I use t-nuts, but secure them with a little epoxy so they cannot be forced out when bolting in the driver.
I also apply a little bit of blue threadlocker, so that the bolts don't allow air leaks or loosen due to vibrations.
I also apply a little bit of blue threadlocker, so that the bolts don't allow air leaks or loosen due to vibrations.
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I’m too lazy for inserts and I never specify MDF - either good plywood or HDPE for me.
For ply I use a trick from Earl Geddes of running a screw with some CA glue to make basically a superglue insert.
For the actual screws…the PE socket cap ones look great but are weak. I like Spax and Würth screws. I will not use Philips head because they’re ugly and they suck - Torx, Assy (Würth proprietary, though Wera makes an Assy bit as well, available in the US through KC Tool), hex, or square are all fine.
For ply I use a trick from Earl Geddes of running a screw with some CA glue to make basically a superglue insert.
For the actual screws…the PE socket cap ones look great but are weak. I like Spax and Würth screws. I will not use Philips head because they’re ugly and they suck - Torx, Assy (Würth proprietary, though Wera makes an Assy bit as well, available in the US through KC Tool), hex, or square are all fine.
Tom C
Major Contributor
Just idle curiosity: anyone use a metal frame and/or cabinet? Seems like it would be solid and durable (like Magico or Gauder Akoustik). Too hard to handle to be worth it?
jschwender
Member
Ths choice of mounting element is not a matter of strength. If strength is a problem then the speaker will not be fixed or fall off. Mounting elements are classified how often they are re-detachable. A wood screw is not designed for frequent detachment. If you expect to remove the driver more than once, t-nuts are a good choice. If not, a simple wood screw has absolutely sufficient strength.
T-nut can go wrong on first tightening and its a fight to get it out, possible drilling operation. Woodscrews can do multiple detachments before loosening and when loose just use some wood glue and saw dust to refresh the hole. In general, I see no justification for t-nuts other than ability to use bolts that are visually attractive. It is a lot more work to use t-nuts, perhaps worth it if the product needs to be top notch in every way in which case make extra care for the nuts to not slip Happy holidays everyone!
Happy holidays everyone!Similar threads
