We do of course have to remember that publications are a business like everything else, and if they can't sell, they can't pay salaries, and then their employees can't put food on the table. So in that way it's understandable that they aim for attracting as many readers as possible.
With Hi-Fi News I only really look at the measurements, and it's one of the only places I can find measurements of phono cartridges and phono preamps. Those reviews are a little bit "funny", because they are often of some hyper expensive cartridge that is being praised as one of the best things the reviewer has ever heard, and surely nothing like "that godawful CD sound", and then the measurements show a very uneven frequency response, either with an enormous drop in the highest frequencies, giving it this "relaxed presentation that CDs just can't do", or with an enormous boost in the highest frequencies, giving it this "hyper realistic and detailed presentation, digging out all the details in the grooves that CDs are simply unable at capturing". Then there's of course also the 10 % distortion at 10 kHz, in some cases (Dynavector DV10x5) 35 % at 20 kHz.
There's nothing wrong with having a preference, but the reviews are usually written in statement form as if they were facts, when it's just a preference, but that's how many audiophiles are - thinking their personal preferences reflect facts.
At least Hi-Fi News include measurements, which most magazines don't. But even in the German magazine Stereo, which seems quite serious, they often sing the praise of a product with poor measurements, and rather than conclude that this then shows that measurements are not important I would conclude that many people (perhaps even most) prefer imperfect to perfect, with most people falling into of two big groups: One that prefer a "dark" sound, and one that prefer a "detailed" sound (often a boost around 10 kHz).
Part of this explanation is probably to be found in the fact that most recordings are average - that's why there's an average. Often they've been produced, mixed and mastered on non-neutral equipment in non-neutral rooms and/or at least approved by an artist who likes a harsh, aggressive sound. So these recordings can be improved. Using e.g. speakers or a phono cartridge to alter the frequency response can yield a more pleasant listening experience, especially by boosting the bass, lowering the harshness region and boosting around 10-12 kHz. That's the pattern I see in most non-neutral equipment, particularly speakers and phono cartridges.