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2-Way speaker help

voodooless

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So how about a FAST system then? Something like SB65WBAC25-4 coupled with a capable 7" or 8" woofer, crossed at 300 to 400 Hz, would make for a nice combo. It's low distortion and has good directivity. The highs appear to be very dome-tweeter-like from what one can read online.
 

voodooless

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The MAOP 10 should be a step up from that 11MS driver, no? But, I hear you about the 2-way. I noticed this build on Troel’s website: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/MW19P-8.htm

Basically the same size cabinet and same woofer series and same tweeter, but he has gone and used the larger woofer mw19p-8, can you help me understand why he made that choice, seems that driver cannot go as low in that cabinet as the mw16p (4 ohm) would be able to…
The biggest difference between the two is probably the maximum output, where from 50 Hz on, you get about 6 dB more maximum output with the bigger output.
 
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AdamFrandsen

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Since I was mentioned I thought I would chime in :)

On this forum subjective things don't really matter (which is fine, I totally accept that - otherwise I would not be posting my projects here :) ) but let me just say that I have my subjective reasons for building only full-range driver-based systems in the last 4 years

Objectively, I would highly recommend using one or more subwoofer(s) to support any full-range driver of your choice - and that way you will have a 2-way system (though not a traditional one but technically still)

Without a subwoofer these drivers are OK in a desktop usage scenario (i.e. MLP at 60-80cm and no high SPL required). With adequate DSP you will still be blown away btw.
The idea is to not annoy the neighbours in my small work apartment, because I otherwise tend to listen loud - so smaller speaker instead of digging out my main rig from storage in Copenhagen and bringing it to Sweden. I still want great sound though, but I guess one can always add a sub, if the resulting speaker sounds underwhelming. Thanks for the input!
 
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AdamFrandsen

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The biggest difference between the two is probably the maximum output, where from 50 Hz on, you get about 6 dB more maximum output with the bigger output.
Right, in that case I might still prefer the smaller version. Guess I can just use the crossover SB lists for their Ara-be build, I calculated the box to be around 19 liters… If I go that route though, the cabinet itself will be a simple box, as I don‘t have the tools needed for the wood work - I would also go with the B4 calculation of 22 liters and tuning frequency of 42hz instead of 36.5hz that is used in the Ara-be for slightly lower f3… Crossover should still work fine, yes?
 
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AdamFrandsen

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But keeping in mind it will be driven by the LA90D, with it’s limited power (41W @ 4 Ohm and 70W @ 8 Ohm), maybe the MAOP 10 is still the way to go though, and then adding an AST2560 tweeter or even the tw29rn (or if you have a cheaper and as good or better suggestion) so back to something closer to the original idea, but then maybe crossing even higher at 8000hz - hmm…The MAOP 10.2 in a 24 liter cabinet will result in f3 around 37.24Hz… What to do
 

voodooless

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Crossover should still work fine, yes?
With some caveats, yes. Keep the baffle the same width, and make sure the tweeter to woofer distance is the same. Also, note that the enclosure is angled. That is essential to time align the woofer and tweeter. If you do not also do this, you will need a changed crossover. The baffle shape will also have some influence, but a bit less so.
 
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AdamFrandsen

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With some caveats, yes. Keep the baffle the same width, and make sure the tweeter to woofer distance is the same. Also, note that the enclosure is angled. That is essential to time align the woofer and tweeter. If you do not also do this, you will need a changed crossover. The baffle shape will also have some influence, but a bit less so.
Right, and given the baffle is very narrow when expanding the volume the width would likely be the aesthetic choice to extend. So would have to adjust the BSC part of the crossover - in terms of the angle of the enclosure, could i just make a stand that gives the speaker that same angle? Guess it might be easier to make my own crossover in the end… Upon second thought those angles seem doable as they are straight cuts
 
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